Issued  June  27,  1908. 


U.  S.  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY.— Bulletin  105. 

A.   D.  MELV1N,  Chief  op  Bureau. 


VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE 


DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSES. 


BY 

C.  F.  DOANE,  M.  S., 

Assistant  Dairyman,  Dairy  Division, 
AND 

H.  W.  LAWSON,  M.  S.,  M.  D., 

Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  Department  of  Agriculture. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICE. 
1908. 


rroperty  of  the  United  States  Government. 


Issued  Juno  27,  1008. 


U.  S.  DEPARTMENT  OF  AGRICULTURE, 

BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY.— Bulletin  105. 

A.  D.  MELVIN,  Chief  of  Bureau. 


VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE: 


DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSES. 


BY 


C.  F.  DOANE,  M.  S., 

Assistant  Dairyman,  Dairy  Division, 
AND 

H.  W.  LAWSON,  M.  S.,  M.  D., 

Office  of  Experiment  Stations,  Department  of  Agriculture. 


WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT    PRINTING    OFFICE. 
1908. 


THE  BUREAU  OF  ANIMAL  INDUSTRY. 


Chief:  A.  D.  Melvin. 

Assistant  Chief:  A.  M.  Farrington. 

Chief  Clerk:  E.  B.  Jones. 

Biorhimiv  Division:  M.  Dorset,  chief:  James  A.  Emery,  assistant  chief. 

Dairy  Division:  Ed.  H.  Webster,  chief;  C.  B.  Lane,  assistant  chief. 

Inspection  Division:  Rice  P.  Steddom,  chief;  Morris  Wooden,  R.  A.  Ramsay, 
and  Albert  E.  Behxke,  associate  chiefs. 

Pathological  Division:  John  R.  Mohler,  chief;  Henry  J.  Washburn,  assistant 
chief. 

Quarantine  Division:  Richard  W.  Hickman,  chief. 

Division  of  Zoology:  B.  H.  Ransom,  chief. 

Experiment  Station:   E.  C.  Schroeder,  superintendent;    W.  E.  Cotton,  assistant. 

Animal  Husbandman:  George  M.  Rommel. 

Editor:  James  M.  Pickens. 

DAIRY   DIVISION. 

Chief:  Ed.  H.  Webster. 
Assistant  Chief:  C.  B.  Lane. 

Dairy  farming  investigations,  B.  H.  Rawl  in  charge. 

Southern  dairying:  B.  H.  Rawl,  S.  E.  Barnes,  J.  E.  Donnan,  T.  E.  Woodward, 
C.  O.  Moser,  J.  C.  Guthrie,  and  A.  K.  Risser,  assistant  dairymen;  Duncan  Stuart, 
assistant  in  dairying;  J.  A.  Conover,  scientific  assistant  in  dairying;  H.  P.  Lykes 
and  J.  T.  Eaton,  agents  in  dairying. 

Dairy  records:  Win.  Hart  Dexter,  assistant  dairyman.        f 

Dairy  products  investigations,  L.  A.  Rogers  in  charge. 

Butter:  John  L.  Sherk,  expert;  W.  S.  Smarzo  and  P.  H.  Kieffer.  collaborators. 

Cheese:  C.  F.  Doane,  A.  W.  Dox,  and  Charles  Thom,  assistant  dairymen;  T.  W. 
Issajeff,  expert  cheese  maker;  J.  W.  Moore,  F.  R.  Thomson,  experts  in  dairying:  S.  K. 
Suzuki,  collaborator;  L.  D.  Bushnell,  expert  in  dairy  bacteriology. 

Milk  secretion:  R.  H.  Shaw,  assistant  dairyman;  A.  E.  Perkins,  scientific  assistant; 
A.  H.  Douglass,  assistant  chemist;  J.  0.  Halverson,  expert  in  dairy  chemistry. 

Milk:  L.  A.  Rogers,  bacteriological  chemist;  C.  R.  Potteiger.  dairy  bacteriologist. 

Organization  and  management  investigations. 

Creameries,  drafting  and  designing:  B.  D.  White,  assistant  dairyman,  in  charge; 
C.  W.  Fryhofer,  scientific  assistant;  H.  J.  Credicott  and  J.  G.  Winkjer,  assistant 
dairymen;  Robert  McAdam,  inspector;  K.  E.  Parks,  architect. 

Market  milk  service:  C.  B.  Lane,  assistant  chief,  in  charge;  G.  M.  Whitaker,  dairy 
inspeotor;  Ivan  C.  Weld,  assistant  dairyman. 

Renovated  butter  inspection. 

M.  W.  Lang,  daily  inspector,  in  charge,  22  Fifth  avenue,  room  510,  Chicago,.  111.; 
Levi  Wells,  dairy  inspector,  6  Harrison  street,  New  York,  N.  Y.;  S.  B.  Willis  and 
H.  P.  Olsen,  deputy  inspectors. 


LETTER  OF  TRANSMITTAL. 


U.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 

Bureau  of  Animal  Industry, 
Washington,  D.  C,  January  18,  1908. 
Sir:  I  have  the  honor  to  transmit  herewith,  and  to  recommend 
for  publication  as  a  bulletin  of  this  Bureau,  a  manuscript  entitled 
"Varieties  of  Cheese:  Descriptions  and  Analyses."  This  paper  was 
prepared  under  the  direction  of  the  chief  of  the  Dairy  Division  by 
C.  F.  Doane,  assistant  dairyman  in  that  division,  and  H.  W.  Lawson, 
of  the  Office  of  Experiment  Stations. 

The  work  is  a  compilation  of  descriptions  and  analyses  of  all  the 
varieties  -of  domestic  and  foreign  cheese  about  which  it  has  been 
possible  to  obtain  such  information  in  the  literature  bearing  upon 
the  subject.  In  a  number  of  cases  only  meager  details  could  be 
•secured,  and  owing  to  the  size  of  the  work  the  descriptions  are  neces- 
sarily of  a  very  condensed  nature. 

Acknowledgment  is  made  of  the  courtesies  and  assistance  ex- 
tended by  the  Office  of  Experiment  Stations  in  the  preparation  of 
this  bulletin. 

Respectfully,  A.  D.  Melvin, 

Chief  of  Bureau. 
Hon.  James  Wilson, 

Secretary  of  Agriculture. 

3 


CONTENTS 


Page. 

Introduction 5 

Descriptions  of  varieties  of  cheese 7 

Analyses  of  cheese 56 

Sources  of  analytical  data 63 

Index 69 

4 


VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE:  DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSES. 


INTRODUCTION. 

The  amount  of  cheese  imported  into  the  United  States  is  increas- 
ing rapidly.  During  the  6  years  from  1900  to  1905,  inclusive,  the 
value  of  the  imports  increased  from  $1,940,033  to  13,875,101.  Italy 
and  Switzerland  supplied  the  hulk  of  this  cheese,  most  of  the  re- 
mainder coming  from  France  and  Holland.  The  best  known  of  the 
varieties  of  cheese  imported  were  the  Parmesan  and  Gorgonzola 
from  Italy,  the  Emmental  from  Switzerland,  the  Roquefort,  Camem- 
bert,  and  Brie  from  France,  and  the  Edam  from  Holland.  The 
growing  demand  for  cheese  is  not,  however,  confined  to  these  well- 
known  varieties,  much  interest  being  manifested  in  many  kinds  as 
yet  of  very  little  commercial  importance  but  highly  esteemed  in  the 
localities  where  produced. 

Attempts  have  long  been  made  in  this  country  to  imitate  some  of 
the  European  varieties  and  in  some  instances  the  results  have  been 
decided ly  successful.  The  manufacture  of  Swiss,  or  Emmental,  and 
of  Limburg  types  has  become  well  established.  The  investigations 
conducted  at  the  Storrs  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  in  Con- 
necticut have  shown  that  cheese  of  the  Camembert  type,  equal  in 
every  way  to  the  imported  article,  ma3r  be  produced  in  the  United 
States.  This  Department  is  cooperating  in  investigations  of  this 
kind  and  recently  results  have  been  obtained  which  make  it  prac- 
tically certain  that  a  cheese  of  the  nature  of  Roquefort  or  Stilton 
can  likewise  be  produced  in  this  country. 

Information  concerning  the  manufacture  and  composition  of  the 
numerous  varieties  of  cheese  is  not  very  accessible  to  English  readers 
and  the  apparent  need  of  some  work  of  reference,  in  connection  at 
least  with  the  importation  and  home  production  of  cheese,  has, 
therefore,  led  to  the  preparation  of  the  descriptive  notes  and  the 
compilation  of  the  analytical  data  contained  in  this  bulletin. 

The  descriptions  are,  for  the  most  part,  based  upon  data  contained 
in  treatises  on  dairying  and  in  articles  in  foreign  periodicals.  While 
in  many  instances  they  are  very  incomplete  and  possibly  at  times 
inaccurate,  they  nevertheless  contain  in  condensed  form  practically 
all  the  important  information  that  it  has  been  possible  to  secure  in 

5 


INTRODUCTION. 


an  extended  search  through  the  literature  relating  in  any  way  to 
the  subject.  Owing  to  the  large  number  of  publications  consulted, 
it  has  seemed  impracticable  to  give  references  to  the  descriptive 
matter. 

The  analyses  have  been  compiled  in  most  instances  from  the  original 
publications.  In  all  cases,  however,  the  sources  of  the  data  have 
been  given  in  the  list  of  references  which  follows  the  table  of  analyses. 
No  effort  has  been  made  to  collect  the  numerous  analyses  of  filled 
cheese,  and  in  the  case  of  American  Cheddar  cheese  only  a  part  of 
the  available  data  has  been  included  in  the  compilation. 


DESCRIPTIONS  OF  VARIETIES  OF  CHEESE. 

ABERTAM. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  sheep's  milk  in  the  region  of  Carlsbad, 
Bohemia. 

ALEMTEJO. 

This  name  is  applied  to  rather  soft  oheeses  made  in  the  province  of  Alemtejo,  Portu- 
gal. They  are  cylindrical  in  shape  and  are  made  in  three  sizes  averaging  in  weight 
about  2  ounres.  1  pound,  and  4  pounds,  respectively.  They  are  made  for  the  most 
part  from  the  milk  of  sheep,  though  goat's  milk  is  often  added,  especially  for  the 
smaller  sizes.  The  milk  is  warmed  and  curdled  usually  with  an  extract  prepared 
from  the  flowers  of  a  kind  of  thistle.     The  cheeses  are  ripened  for  several  weeks. 

ALPIN. 

This  is  a  kind  of  Mont  d'Or  cheese  made  in  the  Alpine  regions  of  France.  It  is  also 
known  as  Clerimbert.  The  milk  is  coagulated  with  rennet  at  80°  F.  in  two  hours. 
The  curd  is  dipped  into  molds  3  to  4  inches  in  diameter  and  2\  inches  in  height.  The 
cheese  is  allowed  to  drain  and  is  turned  several  times  during  one  day,  after  which  it 
is  salted  and  ripened  for  eight  to  fifteen  days. 

ALTENBURG. 

This  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  Germany,  where  it  is  known  as  Altenburger 
Ziegenkase.  A  cheese  is  8  inches  in  diameter,  1  to  2  inches  in  thickness,  and  weighs 
about  2  pounds. 

AMBERT. 

This  cheese,  known  as  Fourme  d'Ambert,  is  a  cylindrical -shaped  imitation  Roque- 
fort cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  It  is  said  to  differ  from  other  forms  of  blue  or  imi- 
tation Roquefort  cheese  made  in  the  southeastern  part  of  France  in  that  the  salt  is 
mixed  with  the  curd  rather  than  rubbed  on  the  surface  of  the  cheese. 

ANC1EN   IMPERIAL. 

The  curd  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner  for  this  cheese  as  for  Neufchatel.  The 
cheese  is  about  2  inches  square  and  one-half  inch  thick.  It  is  also  known  as  Petit- 
Carre  and  when  ripened  as  Carre  Affinc.  The  cheese  is  sold  and  consumed  both  while 
fresh  and  after  ripening.     The  ripening  process  is  not  essentially  different  from  that 

of  Neufchatel. 

APPENZELL. 

This  cheese,  which  is  very  similar  to  Emmental,  is  made  in  the  Canton  of  Appenzell, 
Switzerland,  and  also  in  Bavaria  and  Baden.  It  is  usually  made  of  skim  milk  but 
sometimes  of  whole  milk. 

BACKSTEIN. 

Backstein,  meaning  brick,  is  so  called  from  its  shape,  but  it  is  not  identical  with  the 
Brick  cheese  made  in  the  United  States.  The  process  of  manufacture  is  similar  to 
that  of  Limburg. 

7 


8  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

BANBURY*. 

This  was  a  soft,  rich  cheese,  very  popular  in  England  in  the  early  part  of  the  nine- 
teenth century.     It  was  a  cylindrical  cheese  about  1  inch  thick. 

BARBEREY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  deriving  its  name  from  the 
village  of  Barberey  near  Troves.  France.  It  is  also  commonly  known  as  Fromage  de 
Troves.  The  milk  while  still  fresh  and  warm  is  coagulated  with  rennet,  the  time 
allowed  being  usually  about  four  hours.  The  uncut  curd  is  put  into  a  wooden  mold 
having  a  perforated  bottom.  After  draining  for  three  hours  the  cheese  is  turned  into 
an  earthenware  mold,  the  wooden  one  being  removed  after  twenty-four  hours.  The 
cheeses  are  salted,  dried  in  a  well-ventilated  room,  and  ripened  for  about  three  weeks, 
usually  in  a  subterranean  curing  room.  In  summer  the  cheese  is  often  sold  without 
ripening.     A  cheese  is  5  to  6  inches  in  diameter  and  1^  inches  in  thickness. 

BATTLEMAT. 

This  is  an  Emmental  cheese  made  in  the  Canton  of  Tessin,  Switzerland,  in  the 
western  part  of  Austria,  and  in  the  northern  part  of  Italy.  It  is  recommended  for 
localities  where  a  great  quantity  of  milk  can  not  be  obtained.  The  cheese  is  circular 
in  form,  about  16  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  high,  and  weighs  from  40  to  80 
pounds.  It  is  cooked  at  a  slightly  lower  temperature  than  the  Emmental  and  is  a 
little  softer  when  ripened.  It  ripens  more  rapidly  than  the  Emmental,  being  ready 
for  market  in  about  four  months. 

BAUDEN. 

Baudenkiise  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  the  herders'  huts  in  the  mountains  be- 
tween Bohemia  and  Silesia  in  essentially  the  same  manner  as  Harzkase.  It  is  made 
up  in  two  forms,  one  conical  with  a  diameter  and  a  height  of  3J  inches,  and  the  other 
cylindrical,  with  a  diameter  of  5  inches  and  a  height  of  2 \  inches.  It  is  also  known 
locally  as  Koppenkiise. 

BELGIAN  COOKED. 

The  milk  which  has  been  allowed  to  curdle  spontaneously  is  skimmed  and  the  curd 
heated  to  135°  to  140°  F.  and  then  placed  in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to  drain.  'When 
dry  it  is  thoroughly  kneaded  by  hand  and  is  allowed  to  undergo  fermentation,  which 
takes  ordinarily  from  ten  to  fourteen  days  in  winter  and  six  to  eight  days  in  summer. 
When  the  fermentation  is  complete,  cream  and  salt  are  added  and  the  mixture  is  heated 
gently  and  stirred  until  homogeneous,  when  it  is  put  into  molds  and  allowed  to  ripen 
for  eight  days  longer.  A  cheese  ordinarily  weighs  about  3i  pounds.  It  is  not  essen- 
tially different  from  other  forms  of  cooked  cheese. 

BELLELAY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  milk  and  sometimes  called  Tete  de 
Moine.  and  Monk's  Head.  This  cheese  originated  with  the  monks  of  the  Canton  of 
Bern,  Switzerland,  in  the  fifteenth  century,  and  is  made  exclusively  in  that  locality 
at  the  present  time. 

The  sweet  milk  is  set  at  about  90°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  twenty 
to  thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  comparatively  fine  and  is  stirred  while  being 
heated  slowly  to  a  temperature  of  110°.  It  is  cooked  much  firmer  than  Limburg 
and  not  so  firm  as  Emmental. 

When  cooked  the  curd  is  dipped  into  wooden  hoops  lined  with  cloth.  The  cheeses 
are  pressed  in  rotation  for  a  few  minutes  at  a  time,  one  press  being  used  for  a  number 


VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE.  9 

of  cheeses.  After  pressing,  the  cheeses  arc  wrapped  in  bark  for  a  couple  of  weeks,  or 
until  they  are  firm  enough  to  require  no  support.  They  are  cured  in  a  moist  cellar 
at  a  comparatively  low  temperature,  as  it  is  not  desired  to  have  eyes  develop.  The 
cheese  when  ready  for  market  has  a  diameter  of  7  inches  and  weighs  from  9  to  15  pounds. 
It  ripens  in  about  twelve  months  and  will  keep  for  three  or  four  years.  It  has  a  soft, 
buttery  consistency  and  can  be  spread  on  bread  for  eating. 

BERGQUARA. 

This  is  a  Swedish  cheese  resembling  Gonda.  It  was  known  in  Sweden  in  the  eight- 
eenth century. 

BLEU. 

The  names  Pate  Bleu  and  Frontage  Bleu  are  applied  to  several  kinds  of  hard  rennet 
cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  imitation  of  Roquefort  cheese  in  the  southeastern  part 
of  France.  Owing  to  the  mottled,  marbled,  or  veined  appearance  they  are  also  desig- 
nated Frontage  Persillc.  Among  these  are  Gex,  Sassenage,  and  Septmoncel.  This 
name  is  also  applied  locally  to  several  more  or  less  distinct  kinds  made  in  the  regions 
of  the  Auvergne  and  Aubrae  mountains  and  designated  Bleu  d'Auvergne,  Cantal, 
Guiole  or  Laguiole,  and  Saint  Flour.  Other  cheeses  of  this  order  mentioned  as  made 
in  France  are  Queyras,  Champoleon,  Sarraz,  and  Journiac. 

BOUDANNE. 

This  is  a  French  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  The  milk,  either  whole  or  skimmed, 
is  heated  to  about  85°  F..  sufficient  rennet  is  added  to  secure  coagulation  in  one  hour, 
and  the  curd  is  cut  to  the  size  of  peas,  stirred,  and  heated  to  100°  or  above.  After 
standing  for  ten  to  fifteen  minutes  the  curd  is  pressed  by  hand  and  put  into  molds  8 
inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  in  height.  The  cheeses  are  drained,  turned  fre- 
quently, salted,  and  ripened  for  two  to  three  months. 

BOX   (FIRM). 

This  cheese,  known  in  different  localities  where  made  as  Hohenburg,  Mondsee,  and 
Weihenstephan,  is  made  from  whole  cow's  milk  and  is  a  rather  firm  rennet  cheese. 
The  flavor  is  said  to  lie  mild  but  piquant.  The  milk  is  heated  to  90°  to  93°  F.  in  a 
kettle,  is  colored  with  saffron,  and  set  with  sufficient  rennet  to  curdle  it  in  twenty  to 
twenty-live  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  up  as  fine  as  peas  and  the  contents  of  the  kettle 
are  heated  very  slowly  to  a  temperature  of  105°,  being  stirred  mearfwhile.  The 
fire  is  then  removed  and  the  curd  allowed  to  settle  for  five  minutes,  when  the  wdiey 
is  dipped  off.  The  curd  is  then  dipped  into  a  cloth  and  from  this  is  scooped  into 
hoops.  Light  pressure  is  applied  and  in  fifteen  minutes  the  cheese  is  turned,  and  the 
turning  is  repeated  frequently  for  several  hours.  The  cheese  is  kept  in  a  well-venti- 
lated room-  at  00°  for  three  to  five  days,  after  which  it  is  taken  to  the  cellar.  It  is 
salted  by  rubbing  or  sprinkling  salt  mi  the  surface.  Ripening  requires  from  two  to 
three  months.  The  cheese  weighs  from  1  to  4  pounds,  and  is  undoubtedly  similar" to 
the  Brick  cheese  of  the  United  States. 

BOX  (SOFT). 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  partially  skimmed  cow's  milk  and  known  locally 
as  Schaehtelkase.  It  is  a  rather  unimportant  variety  produced  in  Wurttemberg  in  a 
small  locality  called  Ilohenheim,  a  name  which  the  cheese  often  takes. 

In  making  this  cheese  the  skimmed  evening's  milk  is  mixed  with  the  whole  morn- 
ing's milk,  or  a  part  of  the  milk  is  skimmed  with  a  centrifuge  and  is  mixed  with  an 
equal  volume  of  whole  milk.  The  cheese  is  made  in  a  copper  kettle.  The  milk  is 
warmed  to  110°  F.,  colored  with  saffron,  and  rennet  added.  It  is  allowed  to  stand  for 
30022— Bull.  105—08 2 


10  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

one  to  one  and  one-half  hours  before  cutting.  The  curd  is  cut  into  rather  coarse  par- 
ticles, alter  which  it  is  allowed  to  stand  for  a  few  minutes,  when  the  whey  is  dipped 
off,  and  for  every  200  pounds  of  milk  used  a  small  handful  of  caraway  seed  is  added. 
The  curd  is  then  dipped  into  hoops  6"j  inches  in  height  and  the  same  in  diameter.  It 
remains  in  these  hoops  for  ten  hours  and  is  frequently  turned,  after  which  it  is  trans- 
ferred to  a  wooden  hoop  only  one-half  as  high,  where  it  remains  for  twelve  hours.  The 
cheese  is  then  sprinkled  with  salt  and  put  in  the  ripening  cellar,  where  it  remains 
about  three  months. 

A  soft  rennet  cheese  known  as  Fromage  de  Boite  is  made  in  the  mountains  of  Doubs, 
France,  in  the  fall.     It  resembles  Pont  l'Evlque. 

BRA. 

This  cheese  is  made  by  nomads  in  the  region  of  Bra  in  Piedmont,  Italy.  It  is  a  hard 
rennet  cheese  weighing  about  12  pounds.  The  milk,  which  is  partly  skimmed,  is 
healed  to  about  90°  F.,  and  sufficient  rennet  is  added  to  coagulate  it  in  thirty  to  forty 
minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  to  the  size  of  rice  grains  and  the  whey  removed  after  about 
one-half  of  an  hour.  The  curd  is  put  into  a  form  about  12  inches  in  diameter  and  '■'> 
inches  in  height  and  subjected  to  pressure  for  twelve  to  twenty-four  hours.  It  is 
salted  by  immersion  in  brine  and  also  by  sprinkling  salt  on  the  surface.  The 
cheese  is  then  ripened. 

BRAND. 

This  is  a  German  hand  cheese  weighing  about  one-third  of  a  pound,  made  from  sour- 
milk  curd  cooked  at  a  little  higher  temperature  than  ordinarily  practiced.  The  curd 
is  salted  and  allowed  to  ferment  one  day.  It  is  then  mixed  with  butter,  pressed  into 
shape  and  dried,  and  finally  placed  in  kegs  to  ripen,  during  which  process  it  is  mois- 
tened occasionally  with  beer. 

BRICK. 

The  exact  derivation  of  this  name  is  not  known.  It  may  have  been  adopted  because 
of  the  shape,  or  because  of  the  fact  that  bricks  are  used  almost  exclusively  for  weight- 
ing down  the  press.  Prick  cheese  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's 
milk,  and  is  purely  an  American  product.  In  characteristics  it  is  about  halfway 
between  Limburg  and  Emmental.  It  has  a  strong,  sweetish  taste,  a  sort  of  elastic 
texture,  and  many  small  round  eyes  or  holes.  It  is  made  about  10  by  6  by  3  inchi  s 
in  size.  There  are  many  factories  making  this  product,  especially  in  southern 
Wisconsin. 

Perfectly  sweet  milk  is  set  in  a  vat  at  80°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in 
twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  with  Cheddar  curd  knives,  and  is  then 
heated  to  110°  to  120°  and  stirred  constantly.  The  cooking  is  continued  until  the 
curd  has  become  firm  enough  so  that  a  handful  squeezed  together  will  fall  apart  when 
released.  The  curd  is  then  dipped  into  the  mold,  which  is  a  heavy  rectangular  box 
without  a  bottom  and  with  slits  sawed  in  the  sides  to  allow  drainage.  The  mold  is 
set  on  the  draining  table,  a  follower  is  put  on  the  curd,  and  1  or  2  bricks  are  used  on 
eaTh  cheese  for  pressure.  The  cheeses  are  allowed  to  remain  iu  the  molds  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  when  they  are  removed,  rubbed  all  over  with  salt,  and  piled  three  deep. 
The  lilting  is  done  each  day  for  three  days,  after  which  the  cheese  is  taken  to  the 
ripening  cellar,  which  should  have  a  temperature  of  from  ii()°  to  65°  and  be  compara- 
tively moist.     Ripening  requires  two  months. 

BRICKBAT. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  as  early  as  the  eighteenth  century  in  Wiltshire,  Eng- 
land. It  is  made  from  fresh  milk,  to  which  a  small  portion  of  cream  has  been  added. 
The  milk  is  set  at  about  90°  F.  and  allowed  to  stand  two  hours  before  the  curd  is 
disturbed.  The  curd  is  cut  coarse,  dipped  into  wooden*  forms,  and  light  pressure 
applied.     The  cheese  is  said  to  be  lit  for  consumption  for  one  year  after  being  made. 


VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE.  11 

BRIE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  row's  milk.  The  cheese  varies  in  size  and 
also  in  quality,  depending  on  whether  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is  used.  The 
method  of  manufacture  closely  resembles  that  of  ('amcnibert. 

This  cheese  lias  been  made  in  France  fur  several  centuries.  Mention  was  made  of 
it  as  early  as  1407.  It  is  made  throughout  France,  but  more  extensively  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Seine  el  Marne,  in  which  it  doubtless  originated.  This  Department  contains 
Meaux,  Coulommiers,  and  Melun.  places  noted  for  their  manufacture  of  Brie  cheese, 
though  often  under  local  names.  More  or  less  successful  imitations  of  this  cheese  are 
made  in  other  countries  It  was  estimated  that  7,000,000  pounds  of  Brie  cheese  was 
.-old  in  Paris  during  1900.     The  export  trade  is  also  very  important. 

The  milk  used  is  usually  perfectly  fresh.  It  is  not  uncommon,  however,  to  mix  the 
evening's  milk,  when  kept  cool  over  night,  with  the  morning  s  milk.  Some  artificial 
coloring  matter  is  added  to  the  milk,  which  is  then  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature 
of  80°  to  85°  F.  After  standing  undisturbed  for  about  two  hours  the  curd  is  dipped 
into  forms  or  hoops,  of  which  there  are  three  sizes  in  common  use.  The  largest  size  is 
about  15  inches  in  diameter,  the  medium  size  about  12  inches  in  diameter,  and  the 
smallest  size  about  6  inches  in  diameter.  These  vary  in  height  from  2  to  3  inches. 
After  draining  for  twenty-four  hours  without  pressure  being  applied,  the  hoops  are 
removed  and  the  surface  of  the  cheese  is  sprinkled  with  salt.  Charcoal  is  sometimes 
mixed  with  the  salt  used.  The  cheese  is  then  transferred  to  the  first  curing  room, 
which  is  kept  dry  and  well  ventilated.  After  remaining  in  this  room  for  about  eight 
days,  the  cheese  becomes  covered  with  mold.  It  is  (lien  transferred  to  the  second 
curing  room  or  cellar,  which  is  usually  very  dark,  imperfectly  ventilated,  and  has  a 
temperature  of  about  (i0°  F.  The  cheese  remains  here  for  from  two  to  four  weeks  or 
until  the  consistency  and  odor  indicate  that  it  is  sufficiently  ripened.  The  red  colora- 
tion which  the  surface  of  the  cheese  finally  acquires  has  been  attributed  to  an  organism 
designated  Bacillus  fimvatatis.  The  ripening  is  due  to  one  or  more  species  of  molds 
which  occur  on  the  surface  and  produce  enzyins  which  in  turn  cause  a  gradual  and 
progressive  breaking  down  of  the  casein  from  the  exterior  toward  the  center.  The 
interior  of  a  ripened  cheese  varies  in  consistency  from  waxy  to  semiliquid  and  has  a 
very  pronounced  odor  and  a  sharp  characteristic  taste. 

BRINSEN. 

This  cheese,  known  locally  as  Laudoch,  Zips,  Liptau,  Siebenbiirgen,  Neusohl,  Alt- 
sohl,  and  Klencz,  is  made  in  the  Carpathian  Mountains  of  Silesia  from  sheep's  milk, 
or  a  mixture  of  sheep's  and  goat's  milk. 

The  cheese  is  made  in  small  lots,  only  2  to  4  gallons  of  milk  being  used  at  one  time. 
This  is  put  into  a  kettle  when  fresh  and  sufficient  rennet  is  added  with  the  milk  at  a 
temperature  of  from  75°  to  85°  F.  to  secure  coagulation  in  fifteen  minutes.  The  curd 
is  broken  up  and  the  whey  dipped  and  the  curd  is  placed  in  a  linen  sack  and  allowed 
to  drain  for  twenty-four  hours.  It  is  then  cut  into  pieces  and  placed  on  a  board,  where 
with  frequent  turnings  it  is  allowed  to  remain  until  it  commences  to  get  smeary,  which 
requires  about  eight  days.  The  pieces  are  then  laid  one  on  lop  of  another  in  a  vessel 
holding  from  40  to  GO  pounds,  where  they  remain  for  twenty-four  hours,  after  which 
they  are  removed,  the  rind  cut  away,  and  the  curd  or  partially  cured  cheese  broken  up 
in  another  vessel.  After  ten  hours  salt  is  stirred  in  and  the  curd  run  through  a  mill 
which  cuts  it  very  fine,  when  it  is  packed  in  a  tub  with  beech  shavings. 

BROCCIO. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  from  sheep's  milk  in  Corsica.  It  is  sometimes  mixed 
with  sugar  and  rum  and  made  into  small  cakes.     It  is  similar  to  Ziger. 


12  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

BURGUNDY. 

This  cheese,  known  in  France  as  Fromage  cle  Bourgogne,  is  described  as  a  soft,  white, 
loaf-shaped  cheese  weighing  about  1  pounds. 

CACIOCAVALLO. 

This  is  a  somewhat  peculiar  kind  of  cheese  made  from  either  whole  or  partly  skimmed 
cow's  milk.  Various  explanations  have  been  made  as  to  the  origin  of  the  name,  which 
means  literally  horse  cheese.  One  explanation  offered  is  that  the  cheese  was  originally 
made  in  the  region  of  Monte  Cavallo.  and  another  is  that  the  imprint  of  a  horse's 
head  was  made  in  each  cheese  as  the  trade-mark  of  the  original  manufacturer.  The 
original  home  of  this  cheese  was  southern  Italy,  but  it  is  now  made  extensively  in 
m  irthern  Italy  as  well.     The  history  of  the  cheese  dates  back  several  centuries. 

The  temperature  of  the  coagulation  of  the  milk  with  rennet  varies  greatly  hut  is 
usually  from  90°  to  95°  F.  The  time  allowed  for  coagulation  is  also  variable,  being 
usually  about  one-half  hour.  The  curd  is  cut  very  finely  and  sometimes  allowed  to 
ferment  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  il  is  heated  by  means  of  very  hot  water,  or  more 
commonly  hot  whey,  and  subsequently  worked  by  hand  until  all  the  whey  is  expressed 
and  the  curd  becomes  homogeneous  and  capable  of  being  drawn  out  into  long  threads. 
It  is  then  molded  into  any  desired  shape  and  salted  by  immersion  in  brine  for  about 
two  days.  The  cheeses  are  suspended  in  pairs  from  the  ceiling  and  lightly  smoked. 
The  surface  may  be  rubbed  with  olive  "il  or  butter.  They  are  kept  in  a  eool,  dry 
room  until  sold.  As  seen  on  the  market  they  vary  much  in  size  ami  shape.  On  an 
average  they  weigh  about  :'>  pounds.  The  most  common  shape  is  that  resembling  a 
beel  a  constriction  near  the  u<\>  being  due  to  the  suing  which  is  tied  around  the  cheese 
for  the  purpose  of  hanging  ii  up.  This  cheese  is  sometimes  eaten  while  comparatively 
fresh  but  is  more  frequently  kept  for  months  and  then  grated  and  used  for  flavoring 
soups  and  as  an  addition  to  macaroni  and  similar  foods.  A  small  quantity  is  imported 
into  the  United  States. 

CAERPHILLY. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Wales  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk.  The  milk 
is  set  very  sweet  at  a  temperature  of  85°  F.  with  enough  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  one 
hour.  The  curd  is  cut  in  j-inch  cubes  and  stirred  for  one  hour  without  further  heating. 
It  is  then  put  in  cloths  ami  subjected  to  light  pressure  for  an  hour  and  is  again  broken 
up  fine  and  put  to  press,  where  it  remains  with  daily  changing  for  three  days.  During 
this  lime  one-half  ounce  salt  to  each  pound  of  curd  is  rubbed  on  the  surface.  Each 
cheese  weighs  about  S  pounds.  The  cheese  requires  about  three  weeks  for  ripening, 
at  a  temperature  of  65  to  70°. 

CAMBRIDGE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  English  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  Milk  i-,  sel  at  90°  F.  and 
rennet  added.  At  the  end  of  one  hour  the  curd  is  dipped  into  molds  without  cutting 
and  allowed  to  stand  for  thirty  hours,  when  it  is  ready  for  eating. 

CAMEMBERT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  A  typical  cheese  is  about -H 
inches  in  diameter  and  1^-  inches  thick  and  is  usually  found  on  the  market  in  this 
country  wrapped  in  paper  and  inclosed  in  a  wooden  box  of  the  same  shape.  The 
cheese  usually  has  a  rind  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness  which  is  composed 
of  molds  and  dried  cheese.  The  interior  is  yellowish  in  color  and.  waxy,  creamy,  or 
almost  fluid  in  consistency,  depending  largely  upon  the  degree  of  ripeness. 

Camembert  cheese  is  said  to  have  originated  in  1791  in  the  locality  from  which  it 
derives  its  name  in  the  Department  of  Orne.  in  the  northwestern  part  of  France.      The 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  13 

industry  extended  soon  into  Calvados,  and  these  two  Departments  are  still  the  prin- 
cipal seat  of  the  industry.  Cheese  of  the  same  type,  however,  is  made  in  other  parts  of 
France  and  also  in  other  countries;  among  these  are  Compiegne,  Contentin,  Pavilion, 
Soumaintrain,  and  Thury-en-Valois.  Very  successful  results  have  been  obtained  at 
the  Sums  Agricultural  Experiment  Station  in  Connecticut. 

Camemberl  cheese  is  made  from  whole  fresh  milk  or  from  milk  which  has  been 
partly  skimmed.  The  evening's  milk  may  lie  skimmed  and  mixed  with  the  fresh 
morning's  milk.  The  temperature  of  selling  is  about  80°  to  83°  F.,  and  the  quantity 
of  rennet  added  for  this  purpose  is  sufficient  to  secure  the  desired  degree  of  firmness  in 
about  (wo  hours.  The  curd  is  then  transferred,  usually  with  as  little  breaking  up  as 
possible,  to  perforated  tin  forma  or  hoops  about,  -1J  inches  in  diameter  and  the  same 
in  height.  These  resl  upon  rush  mats  which  permit  free  drainage.  The  filling  of  the 
forms  ma)'  he  done  at  two  or  three  times  separated  by  short  intervals  allowed  for  the 
curd  to  settle.  Each  form  holds  the  equivalent  in  curd  of  about  2  quarts  of  milk. 
After  draining  for  about  eighteen  hours,  and  preferably  in  a  room  having  a  uniform 
temperature  of  65°  to  70°.  the  cheese  is  turned.  This  is  repeated  frequently  for  about 
two  days,  when  the  cheese  is  removed  from  the  forms  and  salted  on  the  outside.  Two 
or  three  days  later  the  cheese  is  transferred  to  a  well-ventilated  room  where  the  ripen- 
ing process  begins.  The  cheese  remains  here  for  fifteen  to  twenty  days,  during  which 
time  it  is  turned  very  frequently  and  the  surface  becomes  covered  with  molds,  which 
gradually  produce  a  breaking  down  of  the  casein.  It  is  then  taken  to  the  curing 
cellar,  where  the  ripening  process  is  completed  in  about  three  weeks,  when  it  is  packed 
and  marketed. 

CANQUILLOTE. 

This  is  a  skim-milk  cheese  made  in  the  eastern  part,  of  France.  It  is  also  known 
locally  as  Fromagere,  and  Tempete.  The  milk  is  allowed  to  coagulate  spontaneously, 
after  which  it  is  heated  gently  and  the  whey  drawn  off.  The  curd  is  pressed  in  order 
to  remove  as  much  of  the  whey  as  possible,  crumbled  line,  and  fermented  at  a  temper- 
ature of  about  70°  F.  for  two  or  three  days,  during  which  time  it  is  stirred  frequently. 
When  the  cheese  has  acquired  iis  characteristic  taste  it  is  melted  with  the  addition  of 
water,  salt,  eggs,  and  butter  and  put  into  molds  of  various  kinds. 

CANTAL. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  more  or  less  skimmed.  Its 
manufacture  is  extensive  in  the  Department  of  Cantal,  France.  It  is  also  known  as 
Auvergne  or  Auvergne  Blue  on  account  of  iis  being  manufactured  in  the  region  of  the 
Auvergne  Mountains.  Locally  the  cheese  is  commonly  known  as  Fourme.  The 
cheese  is  doubtless  a  very  old  variety  and  the  method  of  manufacture  has  remained 
quite  primitive.  The  milk,  usually  fresh  but  sometimes  several  hours  old,  is  set  witli 
rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  85°  F.,  the  time  allowed  for  coagulation  being  about 
thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  then  cut  very  finely  and  the  whey  dipped  off.  The  curd 
is  subjected  to  pressure  in  order  to  remove  as  much  of  the  whey  as  possible,  and  is 
allowed  to  ferment  for  twenty-four  hours,  which  process  is  considered  very  important. 
The  curd  is  then  broken  up  by  hand  or  by  machinery  and  salted  at  the  rate  of  2.5  to  3 
per  cent.  "When  thoroughly  kneaded  it,  is  put,  into  hoops  about  14  inches  in  diameter. 
Pressure  is  applied  for  about  two  days,  during  which  time  it  is  turned  very  frequently. 
The  cheese  is  next,  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  it  remains  for  six  weeks  to 
six  months.  The  yield  of  cheese  is  usually  10  to  11  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  milk. 
A  ripened  cheese  weighs  from  40  to  120  pounds. 

/ 
CHAMPOLEON. 

Champoleon,  or  Queyras,  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  in  the 
Department  of  Hautes-Alpes,  France. 


14  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

CHAOURCE. 

This  is  a  soft  whole-milk  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  deriving  its 
name  from  the  village  of  Chaouree,  in  the  Department  of  Aube,  France  It  is  about 
4  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  thick. 

CHASCHOL  DE  CHASCHOSIS. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  the  Canton  of  Orisons,  Switzerland.  It  is  a  hard  rennet 
cheese  made  from  skimmed  cow's  milk.  The  cheeses  are  18  to  22  inches  in  diameter, 
3  to  4  inches  high,  and  weigh  from  22  to  40  pounds. 

CHEDDAR. 

This  cheese  is  so  named  from  the  village  of  Cheddar  in  Somersetshire.  England, 
where  it  was  first  made.  It  is  a  comparatively  old  cheese,  though  the  gemiine 
Cheddar  process  as  it  is  now  known  is  nol  old.  Cheddar  cheese  is  an  exceedingly 
popular  variety,  being  much  used  as  a  food  product  in  America  and  England.  It  is 
probably  the  most  important  of  all  cheeses  as  regards  the  quantity  made  annually. 
The  term  Cheddar  as  used  at,  the  present  time  applies  usually  to  a  process  of  making 
rather  than  to  any  particular  shape  of  cheese.  The  name,  however,  is  occasionally 
used  to  designate  a  certain  size  of  cheese  14  to  l(i  inches  in  diameter,  and  weighing 
from  GO  to  100  pounds.  Cheese  made  by  the  Cheddar  process  has,  however,  many 
different  shapes  with  distinguishing  names,  such  as  Flats,  which  have  the  same 
diameter  as  the  Cheddar  size  hut  weigh  only  30  to  40  pounds;  Daisies,  which  are  12 
inches  in  diameter  and  weigh  20  pounds;  Young  Americas,  which  are  8  inches  in 
diameter  and  weigh  S  to  12  pounds;  Long  Horns,  which  are  5  inches  in  diameter 
and  weigh  12  pounds;  and  Squares,  which  are  of  various  sizes  and  usually  3  to  4 
inches  thick.  The  cheese  may  be  white  or  colored  yellow,  and  it  may  be  almost 
fresh  or  thoroughly  ripened  and  broken  down.  It  is  made  from  sweet  cow's  milk, 
which  may  be  skimmed,  partly  skimmed,  or  unskimmed.  When  made  from  un- 
skimmed milk  the  cheese  is  called  "full  cream;"  when  otherwise,  it  is  called  "part 
skim"  or  "skim." 

The  milk,  morning's  and  evening's  mixed,  is  set  at  85°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to 
coagulate  to  the  proper  point  in  from  twenty-five  to  forty  minutes.  At  the  time  of 
sotting  the  milk  should  have  an  acidity  of  about  0.18  to  0.20  per  cent.  Color  may 
or  may  not  he  used.  The  curd  is  cut  when  it  breaks  evenly  before  the  finger.  The 
cutting  is  done  with  curd  knives.  These  knives  are  made  up  of  blades  set  about 
one-third  of  an  inch  apart  in  frames.  In  one  frame  the  knives  are  set  perpendicularly 
and  in  the  other  horizontally.  When  well  cut  the  curd  is  in  uniform  cubes  of  about 
one-third  of  an  inch. 

After  cutting  the  curd  is  heated  slowly  and  with  continued  stirring  until  it  reaches 
a  temperature  of  from  90°  to  108°.  With  the  use  of  mechanical  agitators,  as  is  the 
common  practice,  the  curd  should  be  heated  about  4  degrees  higher  than  when  stirring 
is  done  by  hand.  After  heating  the  stirring  is  continued  intermittently  until  the 
curd  is  sufficiently  firm.  This  is  determined  by  squeezing  a  handful,  which  should 
fall  apart  immediately  on  being  released.  The  whey  is  then  drawn.  At  the  same 
time  the  acid  should  have  reached  about  0.20  per  cent  or  one-fourth  of  an  inch  on  the 
hot  iron,  which  latter  is  determined  by  measuring  the  length  of  strings  when  the 
curd  is  touched  to  a  hot  iron.  The  curd  is  then  matted  about  4  inches  deep,  some- 
times in  the  bottom  of  the  vat,  sometimes  on  racks  covered  with  a  coarse  linen  cloth. 
After  it  has  remained  here  long  enough  to  stick  together  it  is  cut  into  rectangular 
pieces  easy  to  handle,  which  are  turned  frequently  and  finally  piled  two  to  four 
deep;  in  the  meanwhile  the  temperature  of  the  curd  is  kept  at  about  90°.  When 
the  curd  has  broken  down  until  it  has  the  smooth  feeling  of  velvet,  which  requires 
from  one  to  three  hours,  it  is  milled  by  means  of  a  machine,  which  cuts  it  into  pieces 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  15 

the  size  of  a  finger.  It  is  then  stirred  on  the  bottom  of  the  vat  until  whey  ceases  to 
run,  which  requires  from  one-hull'  to  cue  and  one-half  hours,  when  it  is  salted  at  the 
rate  of  2  to  2J  pounds  of  salt  to  100  pounds  of  milk.  It  is  then  ready  to"  put  in  press. 
The  curd  is  put  into  tinned  iron  hoops  of  the  proper  size,  which  are  lined  with 
cheese-cloth  bandages.  The  hoops  are  put  in  presses  and  great  pressure  is  applied 
by  means  of  screws.  The  next  morning  the  cheese  is  removed  from  the  hoops  and 
put  on  shelves  in  a  curing  room.  Formerly  the  cheese  was  kept,  in  a  curing  room  as 
long  as  six  months,  but,  at  the  present  time  it  is  covered  with  a  coat  of  paraffin  and 
put  in  cold  storage  when  three  to  twelve  days  of  age.  There  is  a  growing  demand 
on  the  part  of  consumers  for  mild  cheese,  and  consequently  ripening  must  be  carried 
on  at  a  temperature  below  50°. 

An  important  point  in  the  process  of  manufacturing  Cheddar  cheese  is  the  develop- 
ment of  the  desired  amount  of  acid.  A  maximum  quantity  in  the  whey  that  can 
be  developed  without  injuring  the  texture  of  the  cheese  is  aimed  at,  and  the  proper 
breaking  down  of  the  curd  before  milling  and  salting  is  attributed  to  the  acid.  It 
is  very  probable  that  too  much  weight  has  been  placed  on  the  desirability  of  a  maxi- 
mum development  of  acid,  and  that  practically  as  good  cheese  can  be  produced 
without  the  high  acid. 

CHESHIRE. 

This  cheese  is  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  popular  of  the  English  varieties.  It  is  a 
rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk,  and  is  named  for  Chester  County, 
England,  where  it  is  largely  produced.  It  is  made  in  cylindrical  shape  from  14  to  16 
inches  in  diameter,  and  weighs  50  to  70  pounds.  In  making  this  cheese  sufficient 
annatto  is  used  to  give  the  product  a  very  high  color.  The  process  of  manufacture 
varies  in  detail  in  different  sections.  Perfectly  sweet  milk,  night's  and  morning's 
mixed,  is  set  at  a  temperature  of  from  75°  to  90°  F.  The  curd  is  cut  in  one  hour, 
usually  with  an  instrument  in  which  knives  are  set  in  a  frame  to  cut  cubes  1  to  1J 
inches  square.  This  is  pushed  down  through  the  curd  and  finally  worked  back  and 
forth  at  an  angle.  This  is  continued  until  the  particles  of  curd  are  the  size  of  peas, 
which  requires  about  one  hour.  The  curd  is  then  allowed  to  settle  and  mat  on  the 
bottom  of  the  vat  for  about  an  hour,  when  it  is  rolled  up  to  one  end,  weighted  down, 
and  the  whey  drawn  after  the  desired  degree  of  acidity  has  been  obtained.  The  curd 
is  cut  in  pieces  the  right  size  to  handle  ami  is  piled  on  racks.  It  is  then  run  through 
a  curd  mill,  salted  at  the  rate  of  3  pounds  to  1,000  pounds  of  milk,  and  put  into  a 
hoop  having  a  number  of  holes  in  the  side  through  which  skewers  can  be  thrust  into 
the  cheese  to  promote  drainage.  The  cheese  in  the  hoop  is  put  in  a  heated  wooden 
box  called  an  oven,  and  sometimes  light  pressure  is  applied,  the  pressure  increasing 
gradually  until  it  reaches  about  1  (on.  The  curing  cellar  or  room  is  about  60°  to  65°. 
From  eight  to  ten  months  is  required  for  thorough  ripening., 

CHESHIRE-STILTON.      . 

This  is  a  combination. of  the  Cheshire  and  Stilton  varieties  of  cheese  in  which  the 
general  characteristics  of  size  and  shape  and  manufacture  of  the  Cheshire  is  retained, 
and  a  growth  of  the  mold  peculiar  to  Stilton  is  secured.  The  mold  is  secured  by 
keeping  out  each  day  a  small  portion  of  curd  and  mixing-  it  with  some  curd  in  which 
the  mold  is  growing  well. 

CHIAVARI. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  the  region  of  Chiavari,  Italy,  from  whole  cows' 
milk.  It  is  also  known  as  Cacio  Romano.  A  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  same 
region  is  also  known  by  this  name. 


16  VARIETIES    OP    CHEESE. 

COMMISSION. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Holland  and  resembles  Edam  in  the  process  of  manufacture, 
but  it  has  a  slightly  different  shape,  being  flattened  at  the  ends.  It  is  said  to  be  made 
from  whole  cow's  milk. 

COTHERSTONE. 

This  is  a  rennet  cow's-milk  cheese  made  in  Yorkshire,  England,  and  resembles  the 
well  known  Stilton  cheese  of  that  country.  It  is  a  local  product  manufactured  only 
on  a  small  scale.     It  has  also  been  known  as  Yorkshire-Stilton. 

COOKED. 

This  kind  of  cheese  is  so  called  because  the  curd  is  heated  to  the  melting  point  in 
its  manufacture.  It  is  made  from  fresh  curd  prepared  by  breaking  up  and  heating 
the  curd  of  sour  clabbered  milk.  When  cooled  sufficiently  this  curd  is  placed  in  a 
receptacle  and  allowed  to  stand  for  three  or  four  days  until  it  has  become  colored 
throughout.  It  is  then  put  into  a  kettle  over  a  fire;  salt,  milk,  and  usually  caraway 
seed  are  added,  and  the  whole  is  stirred  vigorously  until  it  becomes  of  the  consistency 
of  thick  molasses,  or  until  it.  strings  when  a  spoon  is  withdrawn.  The  mass  can  then 
be  put  into  molds  until  it  becomes  cold,  or  placed  in  a  vessel  for  keeping.  It  gets 
hard  with  cooling  and  will  retain  the  shape  of  the  mold. 

Cooked  cheese,  made  in  northern  Germany,  is  called  Topfen,  and  a  similar  product 
made  in  Sardinia  is  called  Freisa,  and  Paneddas.  The  same  kind  of  cheese  made  in 
Belgium  is  called  Belgian  cooked  cheese.     Similar  kinds  are  made  in  other  countries. 

COTTAGE. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  extensively  in  this  country,  where  it  is  often  called 
Dutch  cheese,  and  Smear-case.  It.  is  manufactured  usually  in  a  very  small  way, 
but  occasionally  it  is  made  in  large  factories.  Skim  milk  is  allowed  to  sour  and  t lie 
curd  is  then  broken  up  and  held  at  a  temperature  of  about  100°  F.  for  three  to  four 
hours,  or  until  it  has  become  sufficiently  firm.  The  whey  is  then  drained  off  and  the 
curd  placed  under  slight  pressure  for  a  time.  The  curd  is  either  consumed  imme- 
diately or  is  packed  in  tubs  and  placed  in  cold  storage.  It  is  prepared  for  eating  by 
moistening  with  either  milk  or  cream.  Sometimes  it,  is  made  up  into  shapes  and 
wrapped  in  tin  foil.     No  ripening  is  ever  allowed. 

COULOMMIERS. 

This  is  a  small-sized  Brie  cheese  5  to  G  inches  in  diameter  and  1  inch  in  thickness, 
and  weighing  about  1  pound.     It  is  made  in  the  region  of  Coulommiers,  Fiance. 

CREAM. 

Genuine  cream  cheese  is  made  from  a  rich  cream  thickened  by  souring,  or  from 
sweet  cream  thickened  with  rennet.  This  is  put  in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to  drain,  the 
cloth  being  changed  several  times  during  the  draining,  which  requires  about  four  days. 
It  is  then  placed  on  a  board  covered  with  a  cloth,  sprinkled  with  salt,  and  turned 
occasionally.     It  is  ready  for  consumption  in  from  five  to  ten  days. 

Another  variety  of  cream  cheese  is  made  from  cream  with  a  low  content  of  fat  (12  to 
15  per  cent).  The  cream  is  curdled  with  rennet,  broken  up  to  allow  a  part  of  the 
whey  to  escape,  and  is  then  mixed  and  worked  into  almost  a  paste.  This  is  then 
molded  into  pieces  weighing  2  to  4  ounces,  which  are  wrapped  in  tin  foil  and  placed 
on  the  market  without  curing.  It  is  a  very  mild  and  a  very  rich  cheese  and  is  manu- 
factured on  an  extensive  scale  by  a  few  large  factories  in  the  United  States. 

A  so-called  double-cream  cheese,  known  in  France  as  Fromage  Double  Creme,  is 
made  by  coagulating  a  mixture  of  milk  and  cream  and  putting  this  into  a  cloth  and 


VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE.  17 

allowing  it  to  drain  thoroughly,  when  it  is  salted,  kneaded,  and  molded  into  any 
desired  shape.     It  is  eaten  fresh.     The  Gervais  is  a  cheese  of  this  kind. 

A  French  cream  cheese,  Fromage  a  la  Creme,  is  prepared  by  mixing  sweet  cream 
with  well-ripened  sour-milk  curd  or  rennet  curd.  Another  French  cream  cheese, 
which  contains  considerable  salt  as  a  preservative,  is  known  as  Demi-sel.  There  are 
in  addition  several  cream  cheeses  having  specific  names,  such  as  Philadelphia  cream. 

CREUSE. 

This  is,  a  skim-milk  farm  cheese  made  in  the  Department  of  the  same  name  in 
France.  Coagulation  is  secured  either  by  the  addition  of  a  small  quantity  of  rennet 
or  by  heating  the  sour  milk.  When  set  with  rennet  the  period  required  is  usually 
twelve  hours.  The  curd  is  put  into  earthenware  molds  about  7  inches  in  diameter 
and  5  to  6  inches  in  height,  the  bottom  and  sides  being  perforated.  After  draining  for 
several  days  the  cheese  is  removed  from  the  molds,  salted,  and  turned  frequently. 
It  becomes  in  time  very  dry  and  hard  and  may  be  preserved  for  a  year  or  longer.  The 
cheese  is  also  ripened  by  placing  in  tightly  closed  receptacles  lined  with  straw,  in 
which  case  it  becomes  yellow  and  soft  and  acquires  a  very  pronounced  taste. 

CRISTALINNA. 

This  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  the  Canton  of  Graubiinden, 
Switzerland . 

DAMEN. 

This  is  a  soft  uncured  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Hungary  and  is  much 
in  demand  in  the  markets  of  Vienna.     It  is  sometimes  known  as  Gloire  des  Montagnes. 

DANISH  EXPORT. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  some  of  the  creameries  of  Denmark  to  furnish  an  outlet  for 
the  skim  milk  and  the  buttermilk.  In  the  process  of  manufacture  as  high  as  15  per 
cent  of  fresh  buttermilk  is  added  to  the  skim  milk.  The  mixture  is  set  at  98°  F.  with 
sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  in  twenty-five  minutes.  The  curd  is  carefully  and 
evenly  cut,  stirred  for  a  few  minutes,  dipped  into  forms  having  rounded  bottoms, 
kneaded,  pressed  down,  and  finally  covered  with  a  board  upon  which  a  weight  is 
placed.  Twelve  hours  later  the  cheeses  are  placed  in  a  brine  tank  for  twenty-four 
hours,  when  they  are  taken  out  and  covered  with  salt  for  a  short  time.  They  are  then 
transferred  to  the  ripening  room  where  the  temperature  is  about  55°  and  are  turned 
and  wiped  with  a  cloth  every  day  for  five  weeks.  The  cheeses  are  cylindrical  in  shape 
and  are  small  and  flat. 

DERBYSHIRE. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk  in  Derbyshire,  England. 
It  is  cylindrical  in  shape  and  about  the  size  of  the  Cheshire,  though  often  smaller.  It 
is  made  usually  in  farm  dairies,  and  because  of  this  fact  the  size  varies  with  the  size 
of  the  herd.  The  quality  also  varies  to  such  an  extent  that  very  few  really  good 
cheeses  can  be  found.  Night's  milk  in  which  the  development  of  acid  has  been 
prevented  as  much  as  possible  is  mixed  with  the  morning's  milk  and  the  whole  is  set 
at  a  temperature  of  80°  F.  The  setting  period  is  one  hour  and  the  curd  is  allowed  to 
become  very  firm  before  cutting.  The  curd  is  cut  to  the  size  of  a  pea  and  after  being 
allowed  to  settle  is  piled  in  the  center  of  the  vat,  where  after  the  whey  is  removed  it  is 
subjected  to  light  pressure.  The  curd  is  cut  and  again  piled  and  heavier  pressure 
applied.  This  is  repeated  until  the  curd  reaches  a  certain  degree  of  firmness,  when  it 
is  run  through  a  mill  and  salted  at  the  rate  of  1  pound  of  salt  to  1,000  pounds  of  milk. 
It  is  then  put  in  a  press  for  one  hour,  when  it  is  removed  and  the  surface  of  the  cheese 
scalded  for  one  minute  in  water  heated  to  150°.     It  is  put  back  in  the  press  for  five 

30022— Bull.  105—08 3 


18  VAKIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

hours,  the  pressure  applied  being  gradually  increased,  when  it  is  salted  on  the  surface 
and  again  pressed.  The  pressing  continues  for  three  days,  the  cheese  being  salted 
each  day.  The  curing  room  is  kept  preferably  at  60°,  and  the  time  required  for  curing 
is  from  three  to  four  months. 

A  cheese  called  Gloucester  made  in  the  county  of  Gloucester,  England,  is  said  to 
be  identical  with  Derbyshire  cheese.  Double  Gloucester  is  identical  with  single 
Gloucester  in  all  respects  but  size.  It  is  twice  as  thick  as  a  single  Gloucester,  hence 
the  name.  Wiltshire,  Leicestershire,  and  Warwickshire  cheeses  belong  to  the  Der- 
byshire type. 

DEVONSHIRE  CREAM. 

In  making  this  cheese  the  cream  is  allowed  to  rise  for  several  hours,  when  the  milk 
with  the  layer  of  cream  is  scalded.  It  is  then  set  away  for  a  short  time  in  order  that 
the  layer  of  cream  may  harden.  The  cream  is  then  put  into  small  molds  and  placed 
upon  straw  mats  to  drain.  After  becoming  hard  enough  to  retain  its  shape  it  is  ready 
for  market. 

DORSET. 

Dorset,  or  Blue  Dorset,  is  a  cheese  resembling  in  character  and  method  of  manu- 
facture the  better  known  Stilton.  It  is  named  from  Dorsetshire,  England,  in  which 
it  is  made. 

DOTTER. 

This  cheese  is  said  to  have  been  made  by  G.  Leuchs,  in  Numberg,  by  mixing  the 
yolk  of  eggs  with  skim  milk  and  making  this  mixture  into  cheese  in  the  usual  way. 

DRY. 

This  cheese,  known  also  as  Sperrkase  and  Trockenkase,  is  made  in  the  eastern  part 
of  the  Bavarian  Alps  and  in  the  Tyrol,  in  the  small  dairies  of  those  localities.  It  is 
an  extremely  simple  product  made  for  home  consumption,  and  is  made  only  in  the 
winter  season,  when  the  milk  can  not  be  profitably  used  for  other  purposes.  As  soon 
as  the  milk  is  skimmed  it  is  put  into  a  large  kettle  which  can  be  swung  over  a  fire. 
Here  it  is  kept  warm  until  it  is  thoroughly  thickened  from  souring.  It  is  then  broken 
up  and  cooked  quite  firm.  A  small  quantity  of  salt  and  sometimes  some  caraway 
seed  are  added  and  the  curd  is  put  into  forms  of  various  sizes.  It  is  then  placed  in  a 
drying  room,  where  it  becomes  very  hard,  when  it  is  ready  for  eating. 

DUEL. 

This  is  a  soft  cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  It  is  an  Austrian  prod- 
uct, 2  by  2  by  1  inches  in  size. 

DUNLOP. 

This  was  formerly  the  national  cheese  of  Scotland,  but  it  has  been  almost  super-, 
seded  by  the  Cheddar,  which  it  resembled. 

EDAM. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  produced  in  Holland;  it  is  also  known  as  Katzenkopf, 
Tete  de  Maure,  and  Manbollen.  The  best  of  the  product  is  made  of  unskimmed  cow's 
milk,  but  much  of  it  at  the  present  time  is  made  from  mdk  which  has  had  at  least 
one-half  of  the  fat  removed.  The  cheeses  are  round  and  are  colored  deep  red  on  the 
surface  or  wrapped  in  tin  foil. 

The  perfectly  fresh  milk  is  set  at  90°  to  95°  F.  Color  is  added  and  sufficient  rennet 
is  used  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  fifteen  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  and  after  a  very  short 
stirring  is  allowed  to  settle  to  the  bottom,  when  the  whey  is  dipped  off.  The  curd  is 
gathered  in  a  pile  and  pressure  is  applied  for  a  short  time  to  expel  the  whey.     Care  is 


VARIETIES   OP   CHEESE.  19 

taken  in  the  meanwhile  that  the  curd  dues  not  get  below  82°  or  above  (H)°.  The  curd 
is  then  ready  for  the  press.  Sometimes  wooden  molds  are  vised,  but  the  l>est  are  made 
of  iron.  An  attempt  is  made  to  put  just  sufficient  curd  into  the  mold  to  make  a  perfect 
sphere  when  pressed.  When  the  mold  is  half  full  a  little  salt  is  added.  When  the 
mold  is  full,  it  is  pressed  lightly  until  the  cheese  will  hold  its  form,  when  it  is  taken  out 
and  immersed  in  water  for  two  minutes  at  125°.  The  cheese  is  then  put  in  the  press, 
where  it  remains  for  twelve  hours.  It  is  then  removed  from  the  mold  and  placed  in 
another  form  resembling  the  mold  but  without  a  cover,  and  having  a  hole  leading  from 
the  bottom.  The  cheese  is  salted  by  rubbing  salt  on  the  surface.  Sometimes  it  is 
kept  in  a  salt  bath  for  a  day  before  putting  salt  on  the  surface.  Following  the  salting, 
the  cheese  is  washed  in  hot  whey,  and  the  surface  is  scraped  smooth.  It  is  then  taken 
to  the  ripening  cellar,  which  should  have  a  temperature  of  between  50°  and  70°.  Here 
it  is  turned  daily  for  a  time  and  finally  twice  a  week.  In  the  meanwhile  it  is  occasion- 
ally moistened  with  cold  water  or  fresh  beer.  When  the  cheese  is  one  month  old  it  is 
washed  in  water  at  70°  for  twenty  minutes  and  then  placed  in  the  sun  to  dry,  after 
which  it  is  rubbed  with  linseed  oil.  Before  shipping  the  cheese  is  colored,  usually 
red,  but  for  some  markets  it  is  colored  yellow  with  annatto.  This  coloring  is  done  with 
a  watery  solution  of  litmus  and  Berlin  red,  or  with  carmine.  A  considerable  quantity 
of  this  cheese  is  imported  into  the  United  States.  At  the  present  time  some  Edam 
cheeses  are  inclosed  in  air-tight  tins  for  export. 

ELBING. 

This  is  a  West  Prussian  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  which,  during  the 
winter,  is  partly  skimmed  but  at  other  times  left  whole.  It  is  known  also  as  Werder- 
kiise,  and  Niederungskase.  Enough  rennet  is  added  to  the  milk  at  a  temperature  of 
80°  F.  to  coagulate  it  in  from  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  and  cooked  to 
100°,  salted  in  the  granular  state,  and  pressed  for  twelve  hours.  A  cheese  is  10  to  20 
inches  in  diameter  and  3  to  4  inches  in  thickness.  Ripening  requires  about  one  month 
at  a  temperature  of  75°. 

EMMENTAL. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk,  and  has  a  mild, 
somewhat  sweetish  flavor.  It  is  characterized  by  holes  or  eyes  which  develop  to  about 
the  size  of  a  penny  in  t ypical  cheeses  and  are  situated  from  1  to  3  inches  apart.  Cheese 
of  the  same  kind  made  in  the  United  States  is  known  as  Domestic  Swiss,  and  that  made 
in  the  region  of  Lake  Constance  is  called  Algau  Emmental.  Other  local  names  are 
Bellunese,  Formaggio  Dolce,  Fontine  d'Aosta,  and  Thraanen. 

Emmental  cheese  originated  in  the  Canton  of  Emmental,  Switzerland.  It  is  a  very 
old  variety.  In  the  middle  of  the  fifteenth  century  a  cheese  probably  of  this  type 
was  manufactured  in  the  Canton  of  Emmental.  In  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth 
century  the  industry  was  well  developed  and  genuine  Emmental  cheese  was  being 
exported.  In  1722  its  manufacture  under  the  name  of  Gruyere  is  recorded  in  France, 
two  cooperative  societies  having  been  organized  for  this  purpose. 

Emmental  cheese  is  now  manufactured  in  every  civilized  country.  In  the  United 
States  there  are  many  factories,  located  principally  in  Wisconsin,  New  York,  and 
Ohio.  In  Switzerland  the  greater  part  of  the  milk  produced  is  made  into  this  product, 
and  large  districts  in  France  and  northern  Italy  are  devoted  to  its  manufacture.  The 
best  of  the  product  made  in  Switzerland  is  exported,  about  5,000,000  pounds  coming 
to  the  United  States  annually.  The  imported  cheese  sells  in  this  country  at  about  25 
cents  a  pound  wholesale,  and  the  domestic  cheese  sells  at  about  14  cents.  Practically 
as  good  cheese  can  be  manufactured  in  the  United  States  as  in  Switzerland,  but 
prejudice,  combined  with  the  fact  that  much  of  the  domestic  product  is  sold  as 
imported,  has  held  the  price  at  a  low  level. 

There  is  a  slight  difference  in  manipulation  of  the  milk  in  making  Emmental 
cheese  in  this  country  as  compared  with  Switzerland.     In  the  latter  country  the 


20  VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 

evening's  and  morning's  milk  are  made  up  together,  while  in  the  United  Stale?  it 
is  popularly  believed  that  the  evening's  milk  must  be  made  into  cheese  immediately 
after  milking,  as  is  done  with  the  morning's  milk. 

In  making  the  cheese  in  Switzerland  the  evening"s  milk  is  skimmed;  the  fresh 
morning's  milk  is  heated  to  108°  to  110°  F.  and  the  cream  from  the  evening's  milk 
is  added  and  well  stirred  in.  The  cooled  evening's  milk  with  a  little  saffron  is  then 
added  and  the  whole  is  mixed.  The  milk  is  then  brought  to  a  temperature  of  90° 
in  summer  and  95°  in  winter  and  sufficient  rennet  is  added  to  coagulate  the  milk 
in  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  The  whole  process  is  carried  through  in  a  huge  copper 
kettle  holding  300  gallons  of  milk.  The  rennet  used  is  the  calf's  stomach  soaked 
for  twenty-four  hours  in  whey.  'When  the  milk  has  thickened  to  almost  the  desired 
point  for  cutting,  which  is  practically  the  same  as  f or  .ordinary  American  or  Cheddar 
cheese,  the  thin  surface  layer  is  scooped  off  and  turned  bottom  side  up.  This  is 
supposed  to  aid  in  incorporating  the  layer  of  cream  with  the  cheese.  The  curd  is 
then  cut  very  coarse  by  means  of  a  so-called  harp.  The  cheese  maker  with  a  wooden 
scoop  in  each  hand  then  draws  the  mass  of  curd  toward  him.  that  lying  on  the  bottom 
of  the  kettle  being  brought  to  the  surface.  At  this  point  the  cheese  maker  and  an 
assistant  commence  stirring  the  curd  with  the  harp,  a  breaker  having  first  been  fitted 
to  the  inside  of  the  kettle  to  interrupt  the  current  of  the  whey  and  curd.  The  harps 
are  given  a  circular  motion  and  cut  the  curd  very  fine — about  the  size  of  wheat  ker- 
nels or  smaller. 

After  this  stage  is  reached  heating  is  commenced.  In  Switzerland  all  of  the  heat- 
ing until  recently  was  done  over  an  open  fire,  the  kettle  being  swung  on  a  large  crane, 
and  most  of  the  factories  have  the  same  method  at  the  present  time.  In  this  country 
the  same  method  was  followed  in  the  early  days  of  the  industry,  but  at  the  present 
time  inclosed  fireplaces  into  which  the  kettle  can  be  swung  and  doors  closed  to  retain 
the  heat  are  largely  employed.  This  takes  away  much  of  the  discomfort  of  the  oper- 
ation. In  a  few  instances  the  kettles  are  set  in  cement  and  an  iron  car  containing 
the  fire  is  run  under  it.  The  more  modern  factories  employ  steam,  and  this  appears 
to  be  the  most  satisfactory  way.  When  the  heating  is  begun  the  contents  of  the  kettle 
are  brought  rapidly  to  the  desired  temperature,  which  may  be  from  126°  to  140°,  the 
higher  temperature  often  being  necessary  to  get  the  curd  sufficiently  firm.  The  stir- 
ring in  the  meanwhile  continues  for  about  one  hour,  with  slight  interruptions  near 
the  end  of  the  process  when  the  curd  has  become  so  firm  that  it  will  not  mat 
together.  The  end  of  the  cooking  is  determined  by  the  firmness  of  the  curd,  which 
is  judged  by  matting  a  small  cake  with  pressure  by  the  hands  and  noting  the  ease 
with  which  this  cake  breaks  when  held  by  the  edge. 

■\Yhen  the  curd  is  sufficiently  firm  the  contents  of  the  kettle  are  rotated  rapidly 
and  allowed  to  come  to  a  standstill  as  the  momentum  is  lost.  This  brings  all  the 
curd  into  a  cone-shaped  pile  in  the  center  of  the  kettle.  One  edge  of  a  heavy  linen 
cloth  resembling  burlap  is  wrapped  around  a  piece  of  hoop  iron  and  by  this  means 
the  cloth  is  slipped  under  the  pile  of  curd.  The  mass  of  curd  is  then  raised  from 
the  whey  by  means  of  a  rope  and  pulley  and  lowered  into  a  cheese  hoop  on  the 
draining  table.  These  hoops  are  4  to  6  inches  deep  and  vary  greatly  in  diameter. 
The  cloth  is  folded  over  the  cheese,  a  large  follower  is  put  on  top.  and  the  press  is 
allowed  to  come  down  on  the  cheese.  The  press  i?  usually  a  log  swung  at  one  end 
and  operated  by  a  double  lever.  Pressure  is  continued  for  the  first  time  just  long 
enough  for  the  curd  mass  to  retain  its  shape.  The  hoop  is  then  removed,  the  cheese 
turned  over,  and  a  dry  cloth  substituted.  The  cheese  is  allowed  to  remain  in  the 
press  about  twenty-four  hours,  during  which  time  it  is  turned  and  a  dry  cloth  sub- 
stituted several  times  I  six  or  more). 

At  the  end  of  the  pressing  the  curd  should  be  a  homogeneous  mass  without  holes. 
The  cheese  is  then  removed  to  the  salting  board,  covered  with  a  layer  of  salt,  and 
turned  occasionally.     In  a  day  or  two  it  is  put  in  the  salting  tank  in  a  brine  strong 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  21 

enough  to  float  an  egg;  it  remains  here  at  the  discretion  of  the  cheese  maker  for  one 
to  four  days.     Often  no  brine  tank  is  used  witlvEmmental  cheese. 

The  cheese  is  then  taken  to  the  curing  cellar.  In  the  best  factories  two  or  more 
cellars  with  different  temperatures  are  available  and  the  cheeses  are  placed  in  them 
according  to  the  way  the  cheese  maker  thinks  their  development  requires.  If  it 
appears  that  the  cheese  may  develop  too  fast  and  have  too  many  and  too  large  eyes, 
the  cheese  is  placed  in  a  cool  cellar;  if  the  reverse  is  true,  a  warm  cellar  is  selected. 
The  cellars  vary  in  temperature  from  55°  to  65°,  though  in  extreme  cases  70°  or  a 
little  higher  may  be  used.  While  the  cheeses  are  in  the  ripening  cellar,  which  in 
Switzerland  may  be  six  to  ten  months  or  longer,  and  in  the  United  States  three  to  six 
months,  they  should  be  turned  and  washed  every  other  day  for  the  first  two  or  three 
months  and  at  longer  intervals  subsequently,  and  at  the  same  time  a  little  coarse 
salt  is  sprinkled  on  the  surface.  In  a  few  hours  this  salt  lias  dissolved  and  the  brine 
is  spread  over  the'surface  with  a  long-handled  brush. 

Thexcheeses  are  very  large,  about  6  inches  in  thickness  and  sometimes  as  much 
as  4  feet  in  diameter,  and  weigh  from  60  to  220  pounds.  In  shipping,  a  number 
of  them  are  placed  in  a  tub  which  may  contain  1,000  pounds  of  cheese.  Sometimes 
Emmental  cheese  is  made  up  in  the  form  of  blocks  instead  of  like  millstones.  The 
blocks  are  about  28  inches  long  and  8  inches  square  in  the  other  dimensions. 

ENGADINE. 

This  is  made  in  the  Canton  of  Graubiinden,  Switzerland,  and  is  a  rennet  cheese 
made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk. 

ENGLISH   DAIRY. 

This  name  is  applied  to  a  very  hard  cheese,  made  in  the  same  general  way  as  Ched- 
dar, but  cooked  much  more.  This  cheese  has  been  made  mostly  in  the  United  States. 
It  is  used  for  culinary  purposes. 

EPOISSE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  C6te  d'Or,  France. 

ERVY. 

This  is  a  soft  whole-milk  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  deriving  its 
name  from  the  village  of  Ervy,  in  the  Department  of  Aube,  France.  A  cheese  is 
about  7  inches  in  diameter,  2\  inches  thick,  and  weighs  about  4  pounds. 

FARM. 

This  cheese,  made  in  France,  and  known  variously  as  Fromage  a  la  Pie,  Mou,  Maigre, 
and  Ferme,  is  essentially  the  same  as  our  Cottage  cheese.  The  method  of  making  is 
very  simple.  When  the  skimmed  milk  has  become  curdled  the  whey  is  poured  off 
and  the  curd  kneaded  and  molded  into  various  sizes  and  shapes.  Draining  is  some- 
times hastened  by  placing  a  board  and  weight  upon  the  curd.  Salt  and  sometimes 
sweet  cream  are  added.  The  cheese  is  consumed  usually  on  the  farm  where  made 
either  while  fresh  or  after  it  has  undergone  fermentation. 

FILLED. 

Filled  cheese  is  the  name  applied  to  cheese  from  which  the  butterfat  has  been  re- 
moved and  foreign  fats  added.  The  foreign  fat  is  added  by  stirring  it  violently  in  the 
mdk  and  setting  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  quickly.  The  rest  of  the  manu- 
facture is  the  same  as  for  Cheddar  cheese.  Filled  cheese  was  very  extensively  manu- 
factured in  the  United  States  for  a  number  of  years,  but  State  and  Federal  laws  have 
made  this  no  longer  practical.  Many  of  the  European  varieties  of  cheese  are  counter- 
feited or  adulterated  in  the  same  manner. 


22  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

FLOWER. 

This  cheese  is  so  named  because  it  is  made  with  the  addition  of  the  petals  of  various 
kinds  of  flowers,  such  as  roses  and  marigolds.  It  is  a  soft-cured  rennet  cheese  made 
in  England  from  whole  cow's  milk. 

FORMAGELLE. 

This  is  a  small  soft  ripened  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  the  northwestern 
part  of  Italy. 

FORMAGGINI. 

This  name  is  applied  to  several  kinds  of  small  Italian  cheeses.  The  kind  designated 
Formaggini  di  Lecco  is  a  small  cylindrical  dessert  cheese  weighing  about  2  ounces, 
made  in  the  region  of  Lecco,  in  Lorn  hardy.  It  is  consumed  while  fresh  and  sweet  and 
at  all  stages  of  ripening  until  it  becomes  very  piquant.  Sometimes  salt,  pepper, 
sugar,  and  cinnamon  are  mixed  with  this  cheese,  and  occasionally  oil  and  vinegar  are 
added.  The  method  of  manufacture  is  not  essentially  different  from  that  of  other  soft 
cheeses.  Cow's  milk  is  used  with  the  addition  at  times  of  some  goat's  milk.  Rennet 
is  added  to  the  warmed  milk,  which  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for  twenty-four  hours  at  a 
temperature  of  about  55°  F.  The  curd,  with  as  little  breaking  up  as  possible,  is  allowed 
to  drain  for  three  to  four  hours,  when  it  is  salted  and  put  into  cylindrical  molds  about 
1J  inches  in  diameter  and  2  inches  high. 

FROMAGE  FORT. 

Several  kinds  of  cooked  cheese  prepared  in  France  are  known  by  this  name.  In 
the  Department  of  Ain,  Frontage  Fort  is  prepared  by  melting  well-drained  skim-milk 
curd,  putting  the  melted  mass  into  a  cloth,  and  subjecting  it  to  pressure  and  afterward 
burying  it  in  dry  ashes  in  order  to  remove  as  much  of  the  whey  as  possible.  The  mass 
is  then  grated  fine  and  allowed  to  ferment  for  eight  to  ten  days,  after  which  milk, 
butter,  salt,  pepper,  wine,  etc.,  are  added  to  it,  and  the  mixture  is  allowed  to  undergo 
further  fermentation. 

Canquillote,  Cancoillotte,  or  Fromagere,  prepared  in  the  eastern  part  of  France,  is  a 
cheese  of  this  kind,  as  is  also  the  Fondue,  or  cooked  cheese,  of  Lorraine. 

GAMMELOST. 

Gammelost  is  made  in  Norway  froni  skimmed  sour  milk.  The  milk  is  cooked  or 
warmed  in  a  kettle  and  allowed  to  stand  for  one  hour  while  the  precipitated  casein 
gathers  at  the  bottom.  This  is  taken  up  in  a  cloth  and  the  whole  is  put  into  a  form 
where  light  pressure  is  applied.  The  cheese  still  in  the  cloth  in  the  form  is  put  in  the 
hot  whey  for  an  hour,  when  it  is  again  placed  under  pressure  for  a  short  period.  It 
is  put  in  a  warm  place  and  turned  daily.  At  the  end  of  fourteen  days  it  is  packed  in 
a  chest  with  wet  straw.     The  cheeses  vary  in  weight  from  24  to  65  pounds. 

GAUTRAIS. 

This  is  a  cylindrical  cheese  weighing  about  5  pounds  and  very  closely  resembling 
Port  du  Salut.     It  is  made  in  the  Department  of  Mayenne,  France. 

GAVOT. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  cow's,  sheep's,  or  goat's  milk  in  the  Department  of  Hautes- 
Alpes,  France. 

GEHEIMRATH. 

This  is  a  cheese  made  in  small  quantities  in  Holland.  It  resembles  a  small  Gouda 
cheese  in  qualitv  and  process  of  manufacture.     It  is  colored  a  deep  yellow. 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  23 

GEROME. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  mountainous  regions  of  the  Vosges,  France. 
The  name  is  a  corruption  of  Gerardmer,  a  village  in  the  region  where  the  cheese  has 
been  made  for  at  least  fifty  years.  The  variety  is  very  similar  to  Miinster,  but  not  so 
well  known. 

Cow's  milk  is  used  almost  exclusively,  though  at  times  a  little  goat's  milk  is  added. 
The  fresh  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  80°  to  90°  F.  In  about 
one-half  hour  after  adding  the  rennet  the  curd  is  cut  into  rather  large  cubes  and  allowed 
to  stand  for  about  one  hour  when  the  whey  is  dipped  off.  The  curd  is  then  put  into 
cylindrical  forms  or  hoops  6  to  7  inches  in  diameter.  Formerly  these  were  made  of 
wood,  one  being  placed  upon  another,  makinga  total  height  of  14  to  15  inches.  They 
are  now  being  made  also  of  tin  and  in  various  sizes.  The  cheeses  are  turned  after  6 
hours  and  again  after  12  hours.  During  the  next  two  or  three  days  they  are  turned 
twice  daily,  the  hoops  being  changed  each  time.  A  room  temperature  between  G0° 
and  70°  is  desired  during  this  process.  The  cheeses  are  then  salted,  the  amount  of 
salt  used  being  from  3  to  3.5  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the  cheese. 

The  cheeses  are  then  placed  in  a  well-ventilated  room  for  several  days  and  when 
sufficiently  dry  are  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar.  Here  they  are  turned  frequently 
and  worked  with  warm  salt  water  to  prevent  the  growth  of  molds.  Ripening  requires 
from  six  weeks  to  four  months,  depending  upon  the  size  of  the  cheeses,  which  vary  in 
weight  from  one-half  pound  to  5  pounds  or  more.  Anise  is  sometimes  incorporated 
with  the  curd  before  putting  into  the  forms.  Such  cheese  when  old  often  has  a  greenish 
appearance. 

GERVAIS. 

This  is  a  French  cheese  made  from  a  mixture  of  whole  milk  and  cream.  The  mix- 
ture is  set  with  rennet  at  about  65°  F.,  the  time  required  being  about  12  hours.  The 
curd  is  then  inclosed  in  cloth  and  hung  up  to  drain.  When  sufficiently  dry  it  is 
salted  and  pressed  into  molds.  The  mold6  are  soon  removed  and  the  cheese  is  wrapped 
in  paraffin  paper.  The  cheese  is  usually  consumed  wdiile  fresh,  but  may  be  kept  for 
several  days. 

GEX. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  It  belongs  to  the  class  of  blue 
or  marbled  cheese  known  in  France  as  Fromage  Persille,  which  includes  Sassenage, 
Septmoncel,  and  several  other  kinds  resembling  Roquefort.  It  is  made  principally 
in  the  southeastern  part  of  France  and  derives  its  name  from  the  town  of  Gex  in.  the 
Department  of  Ain,  where  the  cheese  has  been  made  for  at  least  sixty  years.  There 
has  been  little  tendency  for  the  industry  to  extend  to  other  regions  than  that  in  which 
it  originated,  and  even  here  it  is  said  to  be  diminishing. 

Rennet  is  added  to  the  fresh  milk  as  soon  as  possible  after  milking.  The  time 
allowed  for  coagulation  is  one  and  one-half  to  two  hours.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up 
and  stirred  until  the  mass  is  in  a  semiliquid  condition,  when  it  is  allowed  to  stand 
for  about  ten  minutes.  After  the  curd  has  settled  to  the  bottom  of  the  vat  the  whey 
is  drained  off.  The  curd  is  then  worked  by  hand,  salted  lightly,  and  put  into  hoops 
about  12  inches  in  diameter  and  5  inches  in  height.  In  about  one  hour  the  cheese  is 
turned  and  a  disk  and  weight  placed  upon  it.  The  turning  is  repeated  three  or  four 
times  a  day,  the  hoops  being  removed  at  the  end  of  the  first  day.  After  salting,  the 
cheese  is  taken  to  the  curing  room,  where  it  soon  acquires  a  bluish  appearance,  due 
to  the  development  of  a  penicillium.  This  mold  is  not  introduced  -into  the  interior 
of  the  cheese  during  making  by  means  of  mottled  bread,  as  is  the  case  with  Roquefort 
cheese.  The  ripening  process,  which  requires  from  three  to  four  months,  is  completed 
in  cellars  or  natural  caves.     A  ripened  cheese  weighs  from  14  to  15  pounds. 


24  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

GISLEV. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Denmark  from  skimmed  cow's  milk. 

GLUMSE. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  sour  skimmed  milk  in  western  Prussia.  The  thickened 
milk  is  placed  over  a  slow  fire  at  about  105°  F.  and  is  cooked  as  long  as  any  whey  is 
expelled.  The  cooking  may  be  done  by  pouring  hot  water  into  the  milk.  After 
cooking,  the  curd  is  removed  from  the  whey  with  a  perforated  dipper  and  is  allowed  to 
drain  in  a  hair  sieve.  Milk  or  cream  is  added  to  the  cheese  just  before  eating.  This 
is  evidently  a  cottage  cheese. 

GOAT'S  MILK. 

There  are  a  large  number  of  goat's-milk  cheeses,  many  of  which  are  not  designated 
by  local  names.  In  France  some  of  these  are  known  by  the  names  Chevret  or  Chev- 
rotin,  in  Italy  as  Formaggio  di  Capra,  and  in  German-speaking  countries  as  Ziegenkase 
or  Gaiskitsli.  Among  those  in  France  to  which  local  names  have  been  attached  are 
Gratairon,  Lamothe,  and  Poitiers. 

The  Gaiskasli  is  a  soft  cheese  made  in  certain  parts  of  Germany  and  Switzerland. 
The  milk  is  set  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  about  40  minutes.  The  curd  is 
then  broken  up,  stirred,  and  dipped  into  cylindrical  molds  about  3  inches  in  diameter. 
The  mold  is  filled  sufficiently  to  make  a  cheese  H  to  2  inches  thick  and  weighing  one- 
half  pound.  The  mold  is  set  on  a  straw  mat  which  allows  the  whey  to  drain  freely, 
and  salt  is  sprinkled  on  the  surface.  In  two  days  the  cheese  is  turned  and  the  other 
surface  is  salted.  The  cheese  requires  about  three  weeks  to  ripen  and  is  said  to  have  a 
very  pleasant  flavor. 

A  kind  of  cheese  is  made  in  Norway  by  drying  goat's  milk  by  boiling,  fresh  milk  or 
cream  sometimes  being  added  during  the  process. 

GORGONZOLA. 

This  variety,  known  also  as  Stracchino  di  Gorgonzola,  is  a  rennet  Italian  cheese 
made  from  whole  cow's  milk.  The  name  is  taken  from  the  -village  of  Gorgonzola,  near 
Milan,  but  very  little  of  this  cheese  is  now  made  in  that  immediate  locality.  The 
interior  of  the  cheese  is  mottled  or  veined  with  a  penicillium  much  like  Roquefort, 
and  for  this  reason  the  cheese  has  been  grouped  with  the  Roquefort  and  Stilton  varie- 
ties. As  seen  upon  the  markets  in  this  country,  the  surface  of  the  cheese  is  covered 
with  a  thin  coat  resembling  clay,  said  to  be  prepared  by  mixing  barite  or  gypsum,  lard 
or  tallow,  and  coloring  matter.  The  cheeses  are  cylindrical  in  shape,  being  about  12 
inches  in  diameter  and  6  inches  in  height,  and  as  marketed  are  wrapped  in  paper  and 
packed  with  straw  in  wicker  baskets 

The  manufacture  of  Gorgonzola  cheese  is  an  important  industry  in  Lombardy,  where 
formerly  it  was  carried  on  principally  during  the  months  of  September  and  October, 
but  with  the  establishment  of  curing  cellars  in  the  Alps,  especially  near  Lecco,  the 
manufacture  is  no  longer  confined  to  this  season. 

The  milk  used  in  making  this  cheese  is  warmed  to  a  temperature  of  about  75°  F.  and 
coagulated  rapidly  with  rennet,  the  time  required  being  usually  from  fifteen  to  twenty 
minutes.  The  curd  is  then  cut  very  finely  and  inclosed  in  a  cloth  and  drained,  after 
which  it  is  put  into  hoops  12  inches  in  diameter  and  10  inches  high.  It  was  formerly 
the  custom  to  allo^  the  curd  from  the  evening's  milk  to  drain  over  night  and  to  mix  it 
with  the  fresh  warm  curd  from  the  morning's  milk  prepared  in  the  same  way.  The 
curd  from  the  evening's  milk  and  that  from  the  morning's  milk,  crumbled  very  fine, 
were  put  into  hoops  in  layers  with  moldy  bread  crumbs  interspersed  between  the 
layers.  The  cheese  is  turned  frequently  for  four  or  five  days,  the  cloths  being  changed 
occasionally,  and  is  salted  from  the  outside,  the  process  requiring  about  two  weeks. 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  25 

It  is  then  transferred  to  the  curing  rooms,  where  a  low  temperature  is  usually  main- 
tained. At  an  early  stage  in  the  process  of  ripening  the  cheese  is  usually  punched 
with  an  instrument  about  6  inches  long  tapering  from  a  sharp  point  to  a  diameter  of  about 
one-eighth  inch  at  the  base.  About  150  holes  are  made  in  each  cheese.  This  favors 
the  development  of  the  penicillium  throughout  the  interior  of  the  cheese.  Well-made 
cheese  may  be  kept  for  a  year  or  longer.  In  the  region  where  made,  much  of  the  cheese 
is  consumed  while  in  a  fresh  condition. 

GOUDA. 

This  is  a  Holland  cheese  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed  cow's  milk.  It  is 
round  and  weighs  10  to  45  pounds.  The  milk,  to  which  coloring  matter  has  been 
added,  is  set  at  91°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  fifteen  minutes.  The 
curd  is  cut  or  broken  with  a  wooden  scoop,  a  harp,  or  an  American  cheese  knife.  It 
is  allowed  to  stand  for  a  minute  and  the  whey  is  dipped  off.  Hot  whey  or  hot  water 
is  poured  on  the  mass  of  curd  until  the  whole  has  reached  a  temperature  of  104°  to  110°. 
When  the  curd  squeaks  or  whistles  when  it  is  crushed  between  the  teeth,  the  whey 
or  water  is  dipped  off  and  the  curd  is  stirred  and  piled  where  it  will  drain  well.  The 
curd  is  then  thoroughly  kneaded  and  sometimes  lightly  salted.  After  salting,  the 
curd  is  put  into  round  molds  and  placed  in  a  press,  where  it  remains  for  twenty-four 
hours  with  increasing  pressure.  The  cheese  is  then  salted  either  by  immersion  in 
brine  or  by  rubbing  salt  on  the  surface.  The  salting  continues  for  four  to  eight  days. 
After  salting,  the  cheese  is  washed  with  hot  whey.  It  is  then  transferred  to  the  ripening 
cellar,  where  it  is  turned  daily  for  several  days  and  finally  once  a  week  until  ripened. 
It  is  ready  for  consumption  in  six  to  eight  months.  When  the  cheese  is  a  few  days 
old  it  is  washed  with  water  and  colored  with  saffron.  Some  of  this  cheese  is  shipped 
to  the  United  States.  As  seen  in  this  country  each  cheese  is  covered  with  an  animal 
tissue  said  to  be  a  bladder. 

GOURNAY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  whicji  derives  its  name  from  the  village«of  Gournay  in 
the  Department  of  Seine-Inferieure,  France,  where  it  is  made.  It  is  about  3  inches 
in  diameter  and  three-fourths  inch  thick. 

GOYA. 

This  cheese  is  manufactured  in  the  Province  of  Corrientes,  in  the  Argentine  Re- 
public. Either  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is  used.  It  is  heated  to  a  temperature 
of  75°  to  85°  F.  and  coagulated  with  rennet  in  fifteen  to  thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is 
cut  and  put  into  sacks  to  drain,  after  which  it  is  put  into  molds. 

GRANULAR  CURD. 

This  cheese  resembles  the  genuine  Cheddar  process  cheese  in  all  points  excepting 
that  it  is  not  matted  and  milled.  As  soon  as  the  curd  is  cooked  firm  enough  it  is  salted 
and  pressed.  Because  no  acid  is  developed  between  cooking  and  pressing,  a  little 
more  acid  may  be  allowed  to  develop  before  drawing  the  whey,  and  the  curd  should 
be  cooked  firmer. 

GRAY. 

This  is  a  sour  skim-milk  product  of  the  Tyrol.  When  the  milk  is  thickened  the 
curd  is  brought  to  a  proper  firmness  by  light  heating,  and  is  then  dipped  into  a  cheese 
cloth,  care  being  taken  that  the  flocculent  matter  at  the  bottom  of  the  kettle  is  thor- 
oughly mixed  with  the  rest  of  the  curd  in  order  to  insure  an  even  product.  The  curd 
is  put  under  a  press  for  ten  minutes,  when  it  is  broken  up  by  hand  or  in  a  mill  and 
salt  and  pepper  are  added.  The  curd  is  then  put  into  forme  or  hoops,  and  to  insure 
the  proper  ripening  a  little  well-ripened  grated  gray  cheese  is  added,  or  bread  crumbs 
30022— Bull.  105—08 4 


26  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

with  the  characteristic  mold  growth  are  mixed  with  the  curd  as  it  is  put  into  the  forms. 
The  forms  are  made  in  various  shapes  and  sizes  and  are  supplied  with  holes  to  facilitate 
drainage.  The  cheese  remains  in  the  forms  under  pressure  for  twenty-four  hours, 
and  is  then  taken  to  the  drying  room,  which  has  a  temperature  of  70°  F.  The  length 
of  time  it  should  remain  in  the  drying  room  is  determined  by  the  appearance  of  the 
cheese.  It  is  then  taken  to  the  ripening  cellar.  The  cheese  when  ripened  has  a 
pleasant  taste  and  a  gray  appearance  through  the  entire  mass. 

GRUYERE. 

This  name  is  applied  to  Emmental  cheese  manufactured  in  France,  the  name 
originating  from  the  Swiss  village  of  Gruyere.  The  cheese  was  first  mentioned  in 
1722.  when  two  societies  were  reported  to  have  been  organized  for  its  manufacture. 
The  Gruyere  cheese  is  made  in  three  different  qualities — whole  milk,  partly  skimmed, 
and  skimmed.  It  is  usually  made  from  partly  skimmed  milk,  and  this  is  supposed 
to  distinguish  it  from  Emmental,  which  is  supposed  to  be  made  from  whole  milk. 
The  manufacture  of  Gruyere  cheese  is  an  extensive  industry  in  France,  about  50,000,- 
000  pounds  having  been  manufactured  annually  the  latter  part  of  the  last  century. 

GUSSING. 

This  is  an  Austrian  skim-milk  cheese  weighing  from  4  to  8  pounds.  It  resembles 
very  much  the  brick  cheese  of  the  United  States  and  is  made  in  practically  the  same 
way. 

HAND. 

Hand  cheese  is  so  named  because  it  was  molded  originally  into  its  final  shape  by 
hand.  It  is  a  sour-milk  cheese,  very  popular  among  German  races,  and  manufactured 
in  many  countries. 

The  process  of  making  varies  in  different  localities,  but  in  general  is  about  as  follows: 
The  skimmed  milk  is  mixed  with  buttermilk  and  put  into  a  tinned  vessel  where  it  is 
held  at  a  favorable  temperature  for  souring.  ^%en  thick  the  curd  is  broken  up  by 
stirring  and  heated  to  120°  F.  The  cooking  is  continued  for  about  three  hours  and 
for  the  first  hour  of  this  time  is  stirred  thoroughly.  After  cooking  the  whey  is  drained 
off  and  the  curd  is  put  in  a  mold  for  cooling.  It  is  then  ground  fine  in  a  curd  mill 
and  salt  is  incorporated,  and  for  some  kinds  caraway  seed  is  added.  The  curd  is  then 
pressed  into  the  desired  shapes  and  sizes.  The  small  cheeses  are  dried  in  a  warm  room 
and  then  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  they  are  kept  on  shelves  until  the 
ripening  on  the  surface  has  commenced,  when  they  are  packed  in  boxes.  The  cheese 
has  a  very  sharp,  pungent  odor  and  taste,  which  to  most  people  unaccustomed  to  it 
are  very  disagreeable. 

There  are  many  local  names  for  hand  cheeses,  among  which  are  the  following:  Thu- 
ringia  carafway  cheese;  Ihlefeld,  made  in  Mecklenburg;  Livlander,  made  in  Russia; 
Olmiilzer  Bierkiise;  Dresdener  Bierkase;  Satz,  made  in  Saxony;  Tyrol  sour  cheese; 
Berliner  Kuhkiise,  and  Alt  Kuhkase. 

HARZ. 

This  is  a  hand  cheese  made  in  different  sizes.  It  is  1$  to  2\  inches  in  diameter  and 
i  to  j  inch  in  thickness  and  weighs  one-fourth  pound.  It  is  identical  in  manufacture 
with  hand  cheese. 

HAY. 

This  cheese,  known  as  Fromage  de  Foin,  is  a  skim-milk  variety  made  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Seine-lnferieure,  France.  The  cheese  derives  its  name  from  the  fact  that  it 
is  ripened  ori  as  freshly  cut  hay  as  possible,  which  gives  a  characteristic  aroma  to  the 
cheese.  The  cheese  in  some  respects  resembles  a  poor  grade  of  Livarot.  It  is  about 
10  inches  in  diameter  and  2  to  3  inches  thick. 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  27 

The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  80°  to  85°  F.  In  about  one  hour  the 
curd  is  cut  and  the  whey  removed;  the  curd  is  then  pressed  to  remove  as  much  of  the 
whey  as  possible,  after  which  it  is  pressed  by  hand  into  molds.  After  draining  for 
about  two  days  it  is  put  into  the  drying  room,  where  it  remains  for  about  three  weeks, 
when  it  is  taken  to  the  curing  cellar  and  buried  in  hay.  After  remaining  here  for  six 
weeks  to  three  months  it  is  ready  for  sale.  The  consumption  of  this  variety  is  largely 
restricted  to  the  region  where  it  is  made. 

HOHENHEIM. 

This  is  a  soft  cheese  made  in  Hohenheim  from  partly  skimmed  milk.  It  is  cylin- 
drical in  shape,  4  to  6  inches  in  diameter,  and  weighs  about  one-half  pound. 

The  skimmed  evening's  milk  is  added  to  the  morning's  milk  and  heated  in  a  copper 
kettle  to  110°  F.  Some  saffron  is  used  for  color  and  rennet  is  added.  In  one  to  one  and 
one-half  hours  the  curd  is  broken  up  and  the  whey  dipped  off.  Caraway  seed  is 
stirred  in,  by  which  process  the  curd  is  reduced  to  smaller  particles.  It  is  then  dipped 
into  tin  hoops  having  holes  to  allow  easy  draining.  The  curd  remains  in  these  hoops 
for  twelve  hours  and  an  additional  twelve  hours  on  a  drying  board.  It  is  then  sprinkled 
with  salt  and  when  this  is  dissolved  it  is  again  salted  and  placed  in  the  ripening  cellar. 
Ripening  requires  three  months. 

HOLSTEIN  HEALTH. 

This  is  a  cooked  cheese  made  from  sour  skimmed  milk,  the  local  name  being  Hol- 
steiner  Gesundheits  Kiise.  The  milk  is  heated  lightly  and  the  curd  is  strongly 
pressed;  it  is  then  well  mixed  and  put  in  a  tin  kettle.  A  little  cream  and  salt  are 
added  and  the  whole  is  stirred  while  it  is  being  heated  to  the  melting  temperature 
over  a  fire.  It  is  then  put  into  a  hoop  or  mold  which  holds  about  one-half  pound  and 
is  allowed  to  cool. 

HOLSTEIN  SKIM- MILK. 

As  the  name  indicates,  this  is  a  skim-milk  cheese  made  in  the  Province  of  Holstein, 
where  it  is  known  as  Holsteiner  Magerkase.  Usually  in  the  manufacture  of  this 
cheese  6  percent  of  buttermilk  is  added  to  separator  skim  milk.  A  part  is  heated  to 
160°  F.  and  the  remainder  is  mixed  with  the  pasteurized  portion.  The  milk  is  col- 
ored with  saffron,  and  rennet  powder  is  used  for  coagulating  the  casein,  which  requires 
about  35  minutes.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  and  allowed  to  remain  in  the  whey 
for  thirty  minutes  without  stirring.  A  cloth  is  then  used  for  lifting  the  curd  from  the 
whey,  and  1  per  cent  of  salt  is  mixed  in.  The  curd  is  pressed  for  one-half  hour,  when 
it  is  turned  and  pressure  again  applied.  The  pressure  is  gradually  increased  from  5 
pounds  to  9  pounds  for  each  pound  of  cheese.  The  cheese  is  transferred  to  the  curing 
cellar,  which  has  a  temperature  of  60°.  It  is  here  turned  daily  until  ripened,  which 
requires  four  months.     Each  cheese  weighs  from  12  to  14  pounds. 

HOP. 

Hop  or  Hopfen  cheese  is  a  German  product.  The  ground  curd  is  salted  and  allowed 
to  ripen  for  three  or  four  days,  when  it  is  mixed  with  fresh  curd  and  molded  into  small 
cheeses  measuring  about  2\  inches  in  diameter  and  1  inch  in  thickness.  These  are 
placed  in  a  well-ventilated  room  and  allowed  to  become  quite  dry,  when  they  are 
packed  in  hops. 

HVID  GJEDEOST. 

This  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  Norway.  The  milk  is  set  at  70°  F.  or  higher. 
The  curd  is  broken  up  and  is  cooked  in  the  usual  manner.  It  is  then  pressed  in  forms 
9  to  10  inches  long,  6  inches  broad,  and  4  inches  high.  The  cheese  is  made  only  for 
local  consumption. 


28  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

ILHA. 

Ilha  is  a  Portuguese  word  meaning  island,  and  is  applied  to  the  cow's-milk  cheeses 
made  in  the  Azore  Islands  and  imported  quite  extensively  into  Portugal.  They  are 
moderately  firm  cheeses  measuring  10  to  12  inches  in  diameter  and  about  4  inches  in 
thickness. 

INCANESTRATO. 

This  name  is  applied  to  cheese  made  in  Sicily.  The  mixture  of  evening's  and 
morning's  milk  is  curdled  with  rennet  in  about  three-fourths  of  an  hour.  The  curd 
is  then  stirred  thoroughly  and  2  per  cent  of  water  is  added.  After  standing  for  five 
minutes  the  curd  is  separated  from  the  whey,  pressed  by  hand,  and  sometimes  allowed 
to  ferment  for  two  to  three  days,  when  it  is  cooked  in  whey  and  then  pressed  and 
salted.  Various  spices  are  added.  A  kind  known  as  Majocchino  and  made  in  the 
region  of  Messina,  out  of  cow's,  goat's,  and  sheep's  milk,  contains  olive  oil. 

ISIGNY. 

This  is  an  American  cheese  originating  about  thirty  years  ago  in  attempts  to  make 
Camembert  cheese  in  this  country.  The  proper  ripening  for  Camembert  cheese  was 
not  secured  and  hence  a  distinct  name  was  given  to  the  product.  The  cheese  is 
slightly  larger  than  Camembert  but  of  the  same  shape.  The  ripened  product  bears  a 
close  resemblance  to  Limbing.  The  process  of  manufacture  is  similar  to  that  of 
Camembert.  During  ripening,  however,  the  cheese  is  washed  and  nibbed  occasion- 
ally to  check  the  growth  of  molds  on  the  surface. 

JOCHBERG. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  a  mixture  of  cow's  and  goat's  milk  in  the  Tyrol.  The 
cheese  weighs  45  pounds  and  is  20  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  high. 

JOSEPHINE. 

This  is  a  soft  cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk  in  Silesia.  It  is  put 
up  in  small  cylindrical  packages. 

KAJMAK. 

The  Turkish  word  Kajmak  signifies  cream  and  is  used  to  designate  a  product  made 
in  Servia  and  sometimes  known  as  Servian  butter.  This  product  is,  however,,  analo- 
gous to  a  cream  cheese.  The  milk  is  boiled  and  put  into  large  shallow  vessels  usually 
made  of  wood,  and  allowed  to  stand  for  twelve  hours,  when  the  cream  is  removed  and 
usually  salted.  The  flavor  varies  greatly  with  the  age  of  the  sample  and  is  said  to  be 
between  that  of  a  goat's-milk  cheese  and  Roquefort. 

KASCAVAL. 

This  is  a  loaf-shaped  rennet  cheese  weighing  from  4  to  6  pounds,  made  from  sheep's 
milk  in  Bulgaria,  Roumania,  and  Transylvania.  Goat's  milk  is  sometimes  added. 
Considerable  quantities  of  the  cheese  are  exported. 

KATSCHKAWALJ. 

This  is  a  sheep's-milk  cheese  made  in  Servia.  The  milk  is  curdled  with  rennet 
and  the  curd  is  drained  and  inclosed  in  tin  cans  which  are  put  into  boiling  water.  The 
curd  is  subsequently  worked  by  hand  and  molded  into  various  shapes.  A  cheese 
weighs  ordinarily  about  6  pounds. 

KJARSGAARD. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Denmark  from  skimmed  cow's  milk. 


VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE.  29 

KLOSTER. 

This  is  a  soft  ripened  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk.  It  has  a 
somewhat  unusual  shape,  1  by  1  by  4  inches,  and  weighs  less  than  one-fourth  pound. 

KOLOS-MONOSTOR. 

This  is  a  sheep's-milk  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  agricultural  school  in  Transyl- 
vania.    The  cheese  is  rectangular  in  shape,  84  by  5  by  3  inches,  and  weighs  4  pounds. 

KOPPEN. 

Koppenkase  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  Germany.  The  milk  is  set  at  80°  to 
85°  F.,  and  after  the  whey  has  been  dipped  off  the  curd  is  put  into  a  cup-shaped  ves- 
sel which  gives  form  to  the  cheese  and  also  the  name.  The  cheese  is  placed  in  a  warm 
room  and  sprinkled  with  salt.  It  is  allowed  to  dry  for  from  two  to  three  days  and  is 
then  placed  in  the  ripening  room.  The  ripened  cheese  weighs  from  3  to  4  ounces.  It 
has  a  sharp,  pungent,  slightly  smoky  flavor. 

KOSHER. 

This  cheese  under  various  names  is  made  in  several  countries.  It  is  a  cow's-milk 
rennet  cheese  made  for  the  Jewish  trade.  The  process  of  manufacture  resembles  that 
of  Limburg.     The  cheese,  however,  is  eaten  fresh. 

KOSHER  GOUDA. 

This  is  a  cheese  made  especially  for  the  Jewish  trade.  It  is  identical  with  a  Gouda 
cheese  in  every  way  except  in  size  and  in  having  no  bladder  covering.  It  weighs 
from  4  to  6  pounds  and  is  84.  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  thick.  It  bears  a  stamp 
which  identifies  it  to  the  Jewish  consumer.  Small  quantities  are  imported  into  this 
country. 

KRUTT. 

Krutt.  or  Kirgiseherkase,  is  made  by  the  nomadic  tribes  of  the  middle  Asiatic 
Steppes  from  sour  skim  milk  of  the  cow,  goat,  sheep,  or  camel.  When  the  milk 
coagulates  salt  is  added  and  the  curd  is  hung  up  in  a  sack  to  drain,  after  which  it  is 
subjected  to  moderate  pressure.  The  curd  is  then  made  up  into  small  balls  which 
are  placed  in  the  sun  to  dry. 

KUHBACH. 

This  is  a  soft  ripened  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed  cow's 
milk.  It  is  a  German  product,  made  in  upper  Bavaria.  It  is  cylindrical  in  shape, 
weighs  2  pounds,  and  is  6  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  high. 

LAGUIOLE. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  varying  but  little  if  any  from  Cantal  and  resembling 
Roquefort.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  village  of  Laguiole  in  the  Department  of 
Aveyron,  France.  The  cheese  is  made  extensively  in  the  mountains  of  Aubrac,  where 
it  is  said  to  have  been  made  at  the  time  of  the  Roman  occupation.  The  milk,  either 
whole  or  partly  skimmed,  is  set  with  rennet,  the  time  allowed  being  about  thirty  min- 
utes. The  curd  is  allowed  to  ferment  for  about  twenty-four  hours  and  is  then  put  into 
hoops  and  pressed.  At  least  one  month  is  required  for  ripening.  Laguiole  or  Guiole 
cheese  is  considered  superior  to  Cantal,  although  the  two  varieties  are  made  in  essen- 
tially the  same  way. 

LANCASHIRE. 

This  is  an  Fnglish  cheese  named  from  the  county  in  which  it  is  made.  The  even- 
ing's milk  is  partly  skimmed  and  is  heated  so  that  when  the  morning's  milk  is  added 


30  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

the  temperature  of  the  whole  is  brought  to  80°  F.,  or  slightly  higher.  Enough  rennet 
is  added  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  one  hour.  The  curd  is  broken  up,  stirred  for  a  short 
time,  and  pressed  on  the  bottom  of  the  vat  by  means  of  a  heavy  sieve.  The  whey  is 
soon  drained  off  and  the  curd  is  ground  in  a  curd  mill  into  particles  the  size  of  kernels 
of  corn  and  then  put  into  the  press.  Salting  is  done  in  brine  in  which  the  cheese  is 
placed  for  four  to  six  days.  From  the  brine  tank  the  cheese  is  transferred  to  the  curing 
room. 

LANGRES. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  northeastern  part  of  France.  It  derives  its 
name  from  the  village  of  Langres  in  the  Department  of  Haute-Marne,  where  it  is  said 
to  have  been  made  since  the  time  of  the  Merovingian  kings.  The  perfectly  fresh  milk 
is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  90°  to  95°  F.  After  standing  for  several 
hours  it  is  put  into  cylindrical  forms.  The  cheeses  ripen  for  about  two  to  three  months. 
A  ripened  cheese  weighs  from  1£  to  2  pounds  and  is  about  5  inches  in  diameter  and  8 
inches  high.     The  cheese  is  consumed  for  the  most  part  in  the  region  where  made. 

LAPLAND. 

The  Laplanders  make  a  variety  of  cheese  from  the  milk  of  the  reindeer.  It  resem- 
bles very  much  the  harder  varieties  of  the  Emmental  group.  The  cheese  has  a  very 
unusual  shape.  It  is  round  and  flat  and  is  so  formed  that  a  cross  section  would  resem- 
ble a  dumbbell  with  angular  instead  of  round  ends. 

LATTICINI. 

This  is  applied  to  cheeses  made  from  the  milk  of  buffaloes,  particularly  in  the  region 
of  Naples,  but  also  in  other  parts  of  Italy. 

LEATHER. 

Leather,  Leder,  or  Holstein  dairy  cheese  is  made  in  Schleswig-Holstein,  from 
skimmed  cow's  milk  with  an  addition  of  from  5  to  10  per  cent  of  buttermilk. 

The  milk  is  set  at  from  95°  to  100°  F.  and  requires  twenty-five  to  thirty-five  minutes 
for  coagulation.  It  is  then  broken  up  with  a  harp  or  a  stirring  stick,  and  is  stirred  with 
a  Danish  stirrer.  When  the  particles  are  reduced  to  the  size  of  peas  the  curd  is  piled 
up  on  one  side  of  the  vat  or  kettle  and  allowed  to  stand  for  ten  minutes.  The  whey  is 
then  dipped  off.  The  curd  is  cut  with  a  knife  into  pieces  the  size  of  the  hand,  put  in 
a  wooden  or  tin  bowl,  and  pressed  for  one-half  hour,  when  it  is  cut  into  pieces  and 
run  through  a  cheese  mill.  It  is  then  salted,  put  in  a  cloth,  and  again  put  in  the  press, 
where  the  pressure  is  gradually  increased.  The  cheese  is  turned  occasionally  and  a 
fresh  dry  cloth  supplied.  After  twelve  hours  of  pressing  the  cheese  is  put  into  the 
salt  bath,  where  it  is  kept  forty  to  forty-eight  hours.  It  is  then  transferred  to  the 
ripening  cellar,  where  it  is  wiped  with  a  dry  cloth  every  day  for  about  a  week  and 
thereafter  twice  a  week,  the  ripening  requiring  about  four  months.  The  cured  cheese 
has  small  eyes;  it  is  made  cylindrical,  and  is  4  to  6  inches  in  height  and  10  to  12  inches 
in  diameter.     It  weighs  15  to  25  pounds. 

LEICESTER. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk.  It  is  named  from  a 
county  in  England  where  it  is  made.  It  resembles  the  better  known  Cheshire  and 
Cheddar  in  every  way. 

Evening's  and  morning's  milk  are  mixed  and  set  at  a  temperature  of  from  76°  to 
84°  F.  The  curd  is  allowed  to  set  very  firm,  which  requires  ninety  minutes.  It  is 
cut  very  carefully  and  allowed  to  settle  twenty  minutes,  when  the  whey-is  drawn  off. 
The  curd  is  then  gathered  in  a  cloth,  pressed,  and  broken  up  several  times  until  a 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  31 

certain  degree  of  dryness  has  been  attained,  and  then  salted  lightly  and  put  lo  press. 
Pressure  is  continued  for  five  days,  the  cheese  being  removed  and  salted  on  the  out- 
side each  day. 

LEYDEN. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  Holland,  where  it  is  known  also  as  Bergues, 
Delft,  Komynde,  Koejekaars,  and  Hobbe.  The  milk,  which  is  either  partly  or 
entirely  skimmed,  is  set  with  rennet  at  72°  to  75°  F.  It  is  allowed  to  stand  for  one 
hour,  when  the  curd  is  cut  and  then  stirred  while  being  warmed  up  to  97°.  The  heat- 
ing is  done  by  pouring  hot  whey  over  the  curd.  The  curd  is  then  dipped  out  with  a 
cloth  and  kneaded  by  hand.  Caraway  seed  is  added  to  a  portion  of  the  curd  which, 
in  filling  the  hoops,  constitutes  the  middle  of  three  layers.  The  cheese  is  then  put  in 
press.  It  is  turned  after  three  hours  and  a  fresh  cloth  applied.  The  pressing  con- 
tinues for  twenty-four  hours.  Salting  is  done  on  the  surface  daily.  If  the  rind  be- 
comes hard  it  is  washed  in  whey  or  water,  and  occasionally  milk  is  smeared  on  the 
surface.  The  surface  is  colored  with  litmus  in  alkaline  water.  A  ripened  cheese 
weighs  about  25  pounds  and  is  12  inches  in  diameter  and  3£  to  5  inches  in  thickness. 
As  seen  on  the  American  market  it  has  a  very  dark-brown  surface. 

LIMBURG. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  which  may  contain  all  of  the  fat 
or  be  partly  or  entirely  skimmed.  The  best  Limburg  is  undoubtedly  made  from 
whole  milk.  This  cheese  has  a  very  strong  and  characteristic  odor  and  taste.  The 
cheese  is  about  6  by  6  by  3  inches  and  weighs  about  2  pounds. 

The  most  common  synonyms  of  Limburg  are  Backstein  and  Herve.  There  are, 
however,  many  local  names  for  this  kind  of  cheese,  such  as  Algau,  Lanark,  Marianhof, 
Morin,  St.  Michels,  Schtitzen,  Tanzenberg,  Carinthian,  Grottenhof,  Emmersdorf, 
Briol,  and  Lindenhof. 

Limburg  cheese  originated  in  the  province  of  Luttich,  Belgium,  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  Herve,  and  was  marketed  in  Limburg,  Belgium.  Its  manufacture  has  spread 
to  Germany  and  Austria,  where  it  is  very  popular,  and  to  the  United  States,  where 
large  quantities  are  made,  mostly  in  New  York  and  Wisconsin. 

Sweet  milk  is  set  without  any  coloring  matter  at  a  temperature  of  from  91°  to  96° 
F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  about  forty  minutes.  In  foreign 
countries  a  kettle  is  used  but  in  the  United  States  an  ordinary  rectangular  cheese  vat 
is  found  to  be  more  satisfactory.  The  curd  is  cut  or  broken  into  pieces  about  one- 
third-inch  cube  and  is  stirred  for  a  6hort  time  without  additional  heating.  It  is  then 
dipped  into  rectangular  forms,  28  inches  long,  5|  inches  broad,  and  about  8  inches 
deep.  These  forms  are  kept  on  a  draining  board  where  the  whey  drains  out  freely. 
When  the  cheese  has  been  in  the  forms  with  frequent  turnings  for  a  sufficient  length 
of  time  to  retain  its  shape  it  is  femoved  to  the  salting  table,  where  the  surface  is  rubbed 
with  salt  daily.  When  the  surface  of  the  cheese  commences  to  get  slippery,  the 
cheese  is  put  in  a  ripening  cellar  having  a  temperature  of  about  60°.  While  in  the 
cellar  the  surface  of  each  cheese  is  rubbed  thoroughly  at  frequent  intervals.  Ripen- 
ing requires  one  to  two  months.  When  ripe  the  cheese  is  wrapped  in  paper,  and  then 
in  tin  foil,  and  put  in  boxes  each  containing  about  50  cheeses. 

No  Limburg  is  imported  into  this  country  at  the  present  time,  contrary  to  the 
popular  belief.  The  type  of  cheese  is  made  so  cheaply  and  of  such  good  quality  in 
this  country  that  the  foreign  make  has  been  crowded  out  of  the  market. 

LIPTAU. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  the  Provinces  of  Liptau,  Saros,  and  Arva,  in  Austria,  from 
sheep's  milk.  Condiments,  especially  red  pepper,  are  usually  added.  It  is  rather 
greasy  and  has  a  sharp  taste.  The  details  of  manufacture  are  the  same  as  for  Brinsen 
cheese. 


32  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

LIVAROT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  more  or  less  skimmed.  It  derives 
its  name  from  the  village  of  Livarot  in  the  Department  of  Calvados,  France,  where  the 
industry  is  centralized.  This  cheese  has  the  advantage  over  Camembert  made  in  the 
same  region  in  that  it  may  be  manufactured  and  consumed  during  the  warm  months. 

The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  95°  to  104°  F.  After  one  and  one-half 
to  two  hours  the  curd  is  cut  and  placed  on  a  rush  mat  or  a  cloth  and  allowed  to  drain 
for  abotit  fifteen  minutes,  during  which  time  it  is  crumbled  as  finely  as  possible.  It  is 
then  put  into  tin  hoops  or  forms  6  inches  in  diameter  and  the  same  in  height.  The 
cheeses  are  turned  very  frequently  until  they  become  firm,  when  they  are  salted  and 
left  on  the  draining  board  for  four  or  five  days.  At  this  stage  they  are  sometimes  sold 
aa  white  cheese,  but  more  often  they  are  transferred  to  a  well-ventilated  room  for 
fifteen  to  twenty  days  and  then  to  the  curing  cellar,  which  is  kept  very  tightly  closed. 
By  thus  retaining  the  ammonia  and  other  products  the  cheese  acquires  a  strong, 
piquant  taste.  During  ripening  the  cheeses  are  turned  two  or  three  times  a  week 
and  occasionally  wiped  with  a  cloth  moistened  with  salt  water.  After  ripening  for 
ten  to  twelve  days  they  are  wrapped  with  the  leaves  of  Typha  latifolia,  commonly 
called  laiche.     In  three  to  five  months  they  are  colored  with  annatto  and  marketed. 

LORRAINE. 

This  is  a  small  sour-milk  hand  cheese  made  in  Lorraine,  Germany,  and  regarded 
as  a  delicacy  in  that  country.  It  is  seasoned  with  pepper,  salt,  and  pistachio  nuts, 
and  is  eaten  in  a  comparatively  fresh  state.  The  cheeses  are  made  in  sizes  of  about  2 
ounces  and  sell  for  a  very  high  price — at  the  rate  of  about  50  cents  a  pound. 

LUNEBERG. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  the  small  valleys  of  the  Voralberg  Mountains  in  the  western 
part  of  Austria.  The  art  of  cheese  making  in  this  locality  was  imported  from  Switzer- 
land, and  the  copper  kettle  and  characteristic  presses  are  used.  Saffron  is  used  for 
coloring,  and  the  milk  is  warmed  in  the  copper  kettle  to  87°  to  90°  F.,  at  which  tem- 
perature the  rennet  is  added,  enough  being  used  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  into  pieces  the  size  of  hazelnuts  and  is  cooked  with 
stirring  to  a  temperature  of  122°.  The  curd  is  dipped  into  cloths  which  are  put  into 
wooden  forms  and  light  pressure  is  applied.  The  curd  remains  in  the  press  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  during  which  time  it  is  turned  occasionally  and  a  dry  cloth  supplied.  The 
cheese  is  then  taken  to  the  cellar  and  is  salted  on  the  surface.  In  the  cellar  it  is  rubbed 
and  washed  occasionally.  When  ripe  it  is  said  to  be  about  midway  in  type  between 
Emmental  and  Limburg. 

MACONNAIS. 

This  is  a  French  goat's-milk  cheese,  2  inches  square  by  1J  inches  thick. 

MACQUELINE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  of  the  Camembert  type,  4  inches  in  diameter  and  1\ 
inches  thick,  made  from  whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  in  the  region  of  Senlis,  in  the 
Department  of  Oise,  France.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about 
80°  F.  and  allowed  to  stand  for  five  hours,  when  the  curd  is  put  into  hoops.  After 
twenty-four  hours  the  hoops  are  removed  and  the  cheese  is  salted  and  taken  to  the 
curing  room,  where  it  remains  for  twenty  days  or  more.  A  cheese  weighs  about  one- 
fourth  of  a  pound  and  requires  about  2  liters  of  milk  in  its  manufacture.  The  cheese 
sells  at  a  lower  price  than  Camembert,  made  in  the  same  region. 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  33 

MAIKASE. 

This  is  a  cheese  resembling  Gouda.  It  is  made  in  Holland  in  the  early  summer,  is 
suiter  than  the  regular  Gouda,  and  hence  can  he  marketed  at  an  earlier  period. 

MAINZ   HAND. 

This  is  a  typical  hand  cheese  sometimes  called  Pimp.  The  milk  is  treated  in  the 
usual  way.  and  the  curd  alter  cooling  is  thoroughly  kneaded  by  hand,  the  thoroughness 
of  this  manipulation  influencing  the  quality  of  the  cheese.  The  curd  is  then  pressed 
by  hand  into  flat  cakes  and  allowed  to  dry  for  a  week.  They  are  then  packed  in  a  jar 
or  keg  and  placed  in  a  cellar  for  ripening.     This  requires  from  six  to  eight  weeks. 

MALAKOFF. 

This  is  another  form  of  Neufchatel  cheese  about  2  inches  in  diameter  and  one-half 
of  an  inch  in  thickness.     It  may  be  consumed  either  while  fresh  or  after  ripening. 

MANUR. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Servia  from  cither  sheep's  or  cow's  milk.  The  milk  is  first 
heated  to  the  boiling  temperature  and  then  cooled  until  the  fingers  can  be  held  in  it. 
A  mixture  of  buttermilk  and  fresh  whey  with  rennet  is  added.  The  curd  is  lifted 
from  the  whey  in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to  drain,  when  it  is  kneaded  like  bread,  lightly 
salted,  and  dried. 

MAQUEE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  brick-shaped  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Belgium.  It 
is  known  where  made  as  Fromage  Mou. 

MARKISCH   HAND. 

This  cheese  is  similar  to  a  hand  cheese.  The  milk  is  treated  in  the  same  way  as 
in  hand  cheese  up  to  the  salting.  The  curd  is  then  put  in  a  linen  sack  and  heavy 
pressure  is  applied.  The  mass  is  then  cut  into  oblong  pieces  and  allowed  to  dry  and 
cure  as  regular  hand  cheese. 

MAROILLES. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  of  the  Pont  l'Eveque  type  made  from  whole  or  partly 
skimmed  cow's  milk  in  the  Departments  of  Aisne  and  Nord,  France.  There  are 
several  kinds  varying  in  size,  shape,  and  details  of  manufacture,  of  which  the  Tuile 
de  Flaudre  and  Larron  are  best  known.  The  cheese  as  made  at  Maroilles  is  about  6 
inches  square  and  2  inches  thick;  that  made  at  Saint  Aubin  5  inches  square  and  3 
inches  thick.  The  Larron  is  about  2\  inches  square  and  1J  inches  thick,  and  weighs 
about  6  ounces.  The  Tuile  de  Flandre  is  about  twice  as  large.  The  Dauphin  is 
semilunar  in  shape  and  contains  herbs.  A  pear-shaped  form  designated  Boulette 
may  be  made  in  part  from  buttermilk. 

The  best  cheese  is  made  from  fresh  whole  milk,  although  the  most  of  it  is  made 
from  milk  partly  or  entirely  skimmed.  The  temperature  of  setting  with  rennet  is 
about  75°  F.  and  the  time  allowed  from  one  to  four  hours.  The  curd  is  drained  for 
one  to  two  hours  in  a  box  having  a  perforated  bottom,  and  is  then  put  into  square 
forms  or  hoops  5  to  6  inches  on  a  side  and  3  to  4  inches  high.  The  cheese  is  turned 
frequently  until  firm  and  then  salted  on  all  six  faces  and  taken  to  the  curing  cellar 
where  it  is  washed  frequently  with  salt  water  to  prevent  the  growth  of  molds.  Ripen- 
ing requires  three  to  five  months.     Defective  cheeses  are  said  to  be  common. 

30022— Bull.  105—08 5 


34  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

MASCARPONE. 

This  is  an  Italian  cream  cheese  about  2  inches  in  diameter  and  2\  inches  in  height. 
The  cream  is  heated  to  about  194°  F.  and  dilute  acetic  or  tartaric  acid  is  added.  The 
mixture  is  stirred  and  drained  through  cloth  and  then  put  into  molds.  It  is  eaten  in 
a  fresh  condition. 

MECKLENBURG  SKIM. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  and  named  from  the  province  in 
which  it  is  made.  The  milk  is  placed  in  a  copper  kettle  and  warmed  with  steam. 
Saffron  is  added  for  coloring  and  sufficient  rennet  is  used  to  coagulate  the  milk  in  30 
minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up  into  particles  the  size  of  peas.  The  temperature  is 
raised  to  92°  F.  in  12  minutes.  The  curd  is  then  removed  from  the  kettle  by  means 
of  a  cloth  and  put  into  a  hoop  and  pressure  applied.  This  is  increased  gradually 
until  it  reaches  fifteen  times  the  weight  of  the  cheese  in  twenty-four  hours.  The 
cheese  is  then  placed  in  a  drying  room  held  at  70°  until  a  rind  is  formed.  As  much 
salt  is  then  sprinkled  on  the  surface  as  can  be  absorbed.  In  the  meanwhile  the  cheese 
is  taken  from  the  drying  room  and  placed  in  the  regular  curing  room,  which  has  a 
temperature  of  60°  and  a  relative  humidity  of  85  to  95  per  cent. 

MIGNOT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  either  cylindrical  or  cubical  in  form.  It  has  been 
made  in  the  Department  of  Calvados,  France,  for  over  one  hundred  years  and  resembles 
Pont  l'Eveque  and  Livarot.  There  are  two  types  of  this  cheese,  designated  white 
and  passe;  the  first,  a  fresh  cheese,  is  made  during  the  period  from  April  to  September, 
and  the  second,  a  ripened  cheese,  is  made  during  the  remainder  of  the  year. 

MONTASIO. 

This  cheese  originated  in  the  part  of  Carinthia,  in  Austria,  called  Friaul,  where  the 
annual  product  is  now  valued  at  $600,000.  At  the  present  time  it  is  made  not  only 
in  Carinthia,  but  in  the  neighboring  provinces  and  in  Italy. 

The  milk,  either  whole  or  partly  skimmed,  and  consisting  usually  of  a  mixture  of 
cow's  and  goat's  milk,  is  heated  in  a  kettle  to  95°  F.  and  sufficient  rennet  is  added  to 
coagulate  it  in  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  It  is  then  cut  very  carefully  to  the  size  of  peas 
and  heated  gradually  to  a  temperature  of  120°.  When  the  desired  temperature  is 
reached,  which  is  usually  in  about  one-half  hour,  heating  is  stopped  and  the  stirring 
continued  for  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  Some  of  the  whey  is  dipped  from  the  kettle 
and  the  curd  is  removed  by  means  of  a  cloth.  The  cheese  is  pressed  for  twenty-four 
hours,  during  which  time  it  is  turned  frequently.  The  salting  requires  usually  about 
one  month,  the  total  amount  applied  varying  from  2\  to  3  per  cent  of  the  weight  of  the 
pressed  cheese.  After  salting,  the  cheese  is  taken  to  a  well-ventilated  room  and 
allowed  to  dry.  In  this  room  the  cheese  is  turned  frequently  and  rubbed  in  order  to 
free  it  from  molds.  When  dry  it  is  scraped  carefully  and  taken  to  the  curing  cellar. 
The  cheese  is  here  rubbed  frequently  with  a  coarse  cloth,  and  when  the  rind  has 
become  firm  and  does  not  show  the  presence  of  mold,  olive  oil  is  usually  applied. 
Sometimes  the  rind  is  colored  black  by  means  of  soot. 

The  fresh  cheese  is  almost  white.  The  old  cheese  becomes  yellow,  granular,  and 
has  a  sharp  taste  and  characteristic  odor.  It  is  usually  eaten  when  three  to  twelve 
months  of  age,  but  may  be  kept  much  longer  and  then  grated. 

MONTAVONER. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Austria.  During  the  process  of  manufacture 
dried  herbs  (Achillea  moschata  and  A.  at  rata)  are  added. 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  35 

MONT  CENIS. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  resembling  the  imitation  Roquefort  varieties  like  Gex 
and  Septmoncel  and  made  in  the  region  of  Mont  Cenis,  in  the  southeastern  part  of 
France.  The  milk  used  is  usually  a  mixture  of  cow's,  sheep's,  and  goat's.  The 
evening's  milk  is  usually  skimmed  and  added  to  that  of  the  morning.  Primitive 
methods  of  cheese  making  are  employed.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  tempera- 
ture of  about  85°  F.  The  curd  is  then  cut  and  allowed  to  drain  for  twenty-four  hours, 
when  fresh  curd  is  thoroughly  mixed  with  it.  The  mixture  is  then  put  into  molds  and 
moderate  pressure  applied.  After  turning  frequently  for  several  days  and  salting  it 
is  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  it  is  turned  frequently,  washed  with  salt 
water  to  check  the  growth  of  molds  on  the  surface,  and  allowed  to  ripen  for  three  to 
four  months.  The  ripening  is  due  mainly  to  a  penicillium  which  is  sometimes  incor- 
porated in  the  curd  by  means  of  moldy  bread.  A  ripened  cheese  is  about  18  inches  in 
diameter,  6. to  8  inches  in  height,  and  weighs  about  25  pounds. 

MONT  D'OR. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  of  the  Pont  l'Eveque  type  formerly  made  from  goat's 
milk  but  now  made  almost  exclusively  from  cow's  milk.  Sometimes  a  small  amount 
of  goat's  milk  is  added  to  the  cow's  milk. 

Itderives  its  name  from  Montd'Or, near  Lyons, in  the  Departmentof  Rhone,  France, 
where  it  is  said  to  have  been  made  for  over  three  centuries.  At  the  present  time  it  is 
made  not  only  in  Rhone  and  neighboring  Departments  but  in  the  other  parts  of  France, 
especially  Eure  and  Oise. 

Whole  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  90°  to  100°  F. 
The  curd,  in  from  one-half  hour  to  two  hours  after  the  addition  of  the  rennet  to  the 
milk  and  with  or  without  cutting,  is  put  into  circular  forms  or  hoops  about  A\  inches 
in  diameter  and  3  inches  high.  These  rest  upon  a  draining  board  covered  with  straw. 
After  about  one  hour  the  cheese  is  turned,  and  frequently  thereafter  until  firm.  A 
disk  with  a  light  weight  is  sometimes  placed_  upon  each  cheese  in  order  to  hasten  the 
removal  of  the  whey.  The  cheese  is  salted  on  the  surface.  Much  of  it  is  sold  in  a 
fresh  condition.  It  is  also  ripened  for  about  one  week  in  summer  and  two  to  three 
weeks  in  winter,  during  which  time  it  is  turned  frequently  and  washed  with  salt  water 
to  prevent  the  growth  of  molds. 

MONTHLERY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Seine-et-Oise,  France.  A 
large  cheese  is  about  2  inches  thick  and  14  inches  in  diameter  and  weighs  about  5£ 
pounds.  There  is  also  a  smaller  sized  cheese  which  weighs  about  3  pounds.  Either 
whole  milk  or  partly  skimmed  milk  is  used.  Rennet  is  added  to  the  milk  at  ordinary 
temperatures,  and  the  curd  when  sufficiently  firm  is  broken  up,  put  into  molds,  and 
subjected  to  pressure.  After  salting  the  cheese  is  cured  for  eight  to  fifteen  days  in  a 
so-called  drying  room  and  then  ripened  in  a  cellar  at  a  temperature  of  about  55°  F. 
During  ripening  the  cheese  becomes  covered  at  first  with  a  whitish  mold  and  later 
with  a  blue  mold  in  which  red  spots  appear.  It  is  ready  for  sale  at  the  end  of  about 
one  month. 

MOZARINELLI. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  Italy. 

MONSTER. 

Munster  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk  in  the  western  part  of 
Germany,  near  the  Vosges  Mountains,  and  named  from  the  city  of  Munster,  near  which 
it  is  made.  Similar  cheese  made  in  the  neighboring  portion  of  France  is  called  G6- 
rome,  and  Munster  cheese  made  near  Colmar  and  Strassburg  is  sometimes  given  the 
names  of  these  two  cities. 


36  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

The  milk  is  set  at  about  90°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  thirty  minutes. 
The  curd  is  then  broken  up  and  allowed  to  stand  for  thirty  to  forty-five  minutes  with- 
out stirring,  when  it  is  dipped  with  a  sieve  which  holds  back  the  small  particles  of 
curd  and  gives  a  slight  pressure  to  the  curd.  After  removing  the  whey  the  curd  is 
scooped  into  forms  or  hoops  and  caraway  or  anise  seed  is  usually  added.  The  hoops 
are  made  in  two  parts,  the  lower  of  which  is  4  inches  high  and  7  inches  in  diameter 
with  holes  in  the  bottom  for  draining,  and  the  upper  of  which  is  of  the  same  dimen- 
sions. The  whole  resembles  an  ordinary  cheese  hoop  with  bandages.  The  hoop  is 
lined  with  cheese  cloth.  After  the  curd  has  been  in  the  hoop  for  twelve  hours  the 
upper  part  of  the  hoop  can  be  removed.  The  cheese  is  turned  and  the  cloth  removed. 
The  cheese  is  now  put  in  the  upper  portion  of  the  hoop  and  turned  frequently  for  four 
to  six  days.  The  temperature  is  held  in  the  meanwhile  at  68°.  After  salt  has  been 
rubbed  on  the  surface  daily  for  three  days  the  cheese  is  taken  to  the  cellar,  which  has 
a  temperature  of  51°  to  55°.  where  it  is  allowed  to  ripen  for  two  to  three  months.  The 
cheese  sells  for  about  15  cents  a  pound  when  ripe. 

MYSOST. 

Mysost  is  made  from  whey  and  is  a  product  of  Norway,  Sweden,  and  Denmark,  and 
to  a  very  limited  extent  of  the  United  States.  It  has  a  light-brown  color,  a  buttery 
consistency,  and  a  mild,  sweetish  taste. 

The  method  of  manufacture  is  as  follows:  As  soon  as  the  curd  of  the  regular  cheese  is 
removed  from  the  whey,  the  whey  is  strained  and  is  put  in  a  kettle  or  large  pan  over 
the  fire  and  the  albuminous  material  which  rises  to  the  surface  is  skimmed  off.  The 
whey  is  evaporated  as  rapidly  as  possible  with  constant  and  thorough  stirring.  When 
it  has  reached  about  one-fourth  its  original  volume  the  albumin  previously  skimmed 
off  is  returned  and  stirred  thoroughly  to  break  up  all  possible  lumps.  When  the  whey 
has  attained  the  consistency  of  thickened  milk  it  is  poured  quickly  into  a  wooden 
trough  and  stirred  with  a  paddle  until  cool  to  prevent  the  formation  of  sugar  crystals. 
This  can  then  be  molded  into  the  desired  form.  In  this  country  it  is  usually  made 
into  cylindrical  shapes  and  wrapped  in  tin  foil. 

NIEHEIM. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Westphalia  and  named  from  a  city  in  that  prov- 
ince. The  sour  milk  is  heated  to  a  temperature  of  100°  to  120°  F.  The  curd  is  collected 
in  a  cloth  and  allowed  to  stand  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  it  is  worked  until  in  a 
fine  condition.  The  curd  is  made  up  into  cakes  which  are  put  into  a  cellar  and  turned 
frequently  for  five  to  eight  days.  It  is  then  broken  up,  and  salt  and  caraway  seed, 
and  sometimes  beer  or  milk,  are  added.  The  cheese  is  covered  lightly  with  straw  and 
finally  packed  in  casks  with  hops  and  allowed  to  ripen. 

NESSEL. 

This  is  a  soft-cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk.  It  is  an  Eng- 
lish product  and  is  made  round  and  very  thin. 

NEUFCHATEL. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  extensively  in  the  Department  of  Seine-Inferieure, 
France,  from  cow's  milk  either  whole  or  skimmed.  Bondon,  Malakoff,  Petit  Carre, 
and  Petit  Suisse  are  essentially  the  same  as  Neufchatel,  but  have  slightly  different 
shapes. 

The  milk,  preferably  fresh,  is  set  at  85°  F.  with  only  so  much  rennet  as  is  necessary 
to  secure  the  desired  coagulation  in  twenty-four  hours  in  summer  and  from  thirty-six 
to  forty-eight  hours  in  winter.  The  curd  is  then  inclosed  in  cheese  cloth  and  drained 
for  twelve  hours,  after  which  it  is  subjected  to  pressure  for  another  period  of  twelve 


VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE.  37 

hours.  Il  is  then  thoroughly  kneaded  by  hand,  or  in  the  larger  factories  by  means  of  a 
curd  mill,  and  pressed  into  tin  cylinders  about  2  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  high. 
The  cheeses  are  removed  soon  from  the  molds,  salted,  and  replaced.  After  draining 
for  twenty-four  hours  they  are  transferred  to  the  so-called  drying  room,  where  they 
become  covered  with  white  and  later  with  blue  molds.  They  are  then  taken  to  the 
curing  cellar,  where  the  ripening  process  is  continued  for  three  to  four  weeks.  The 
appearance  of  red  spots  on  the  surface  is  taken  as  an  indication  that  the  ripening  has 
progressed  far  enough.     The  cheeses  are  then  wrapped  in  tin  foil  and  marketed. 

NEW   MILK. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Holland.  The  process  of  manufacture  resembles  that  of 
Gouda  cheese.  It  is  made  only  in  limited  quantities  at  the  beginning  of  the  summer 
season  and  is  eaten  fresh. 

NOSTRALE. 

This  name  is  applied  locally  to  two  kinds  of  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in 
the  mountainous  regions  of  northwestern  Italy.  The  hard  cheese,  designated  For- 
maggio  Duro,  is  made  during  the  spring  while  the  herds  are  still  in  the  valleys,  and  the 
soft  cheese,  Formaggio  Tenero,  during  the  summer  when  they  are  pastured  in  the 
mountains.  The  cheese  is  said  to  be  a  very  old  variety  and  the  methods  of  manufac- 
ture to  have  remained  primitive.  A  cheese  designated  Raschera  made  in  the  region 
of  Mondovi  is  probably  the  same  as  Nostrale. 

OLIVET. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  The  manufacture  of  this  variety 
originated  south  of  Orleans,  in  the  Department  of  Loiret,  France.  The  industry  is 
now  carried  on  north  of  Orleans  near  Olivet,  to  which  place  the  cheese  doubtless  owes 
its  name.  There  are  three  forms  of  this  cheese,  designated  white  or  summer  cheese, 
blue  or  the  ordinary  half-ripened  form,  and  ripened.  In  general  the  process  of  manu- 
facture resembles  that  of  Camembert.  The  ordinary  form  is  made  from  either  whole 
milk  or  partly  skimmed  milk.  About  two  hours  after  the  addition  of  rennet  the  curd 
is  placed  in  a  receptacle  having  holes  in  the  bottom  and  sides  and  allowed  to  drain  for 
twenty-four  hours,  when  it  is  put  into  forms  about  6  inches  in  diameter.  The  cheese 
is  turned  and  salted  the  next  day  and  about  one  day  later  is  taken  to  the  first  curing 
room,  where  it  is  placed  on  shelves  covered  with  straw.  This  room  is  kept  at  a  tem- 
perature of  about  65°  F.  Here  the  cheese  becomes  red  in  a  few  days  and  later  blue. 
The  blue  color  is  a  sign  of  maturity,  and  its  appearance  requires  from  ten  to  fifteen 
days  in  summer  and  one  month  in  winter.  The  cheese  is  then  ready  for  marketing. 
When  properly  cared  for  it  may  remain  in  good  condition  for  several  months.  The 
form  designated  ripened  is  made  in  the  same  way  until  the  blue  color  appears,  when 
the  cheese  is  put  into  the  curing  cellar  where  ripening  is  carried  to  a  much  further 
extent.  Ordinarily  this  requires  from  fifteen  to  thirty  days,  but  the  cheese  is  here 
sometimes  covered  with  ashes,  which  are  believed  to  hasten  the  ripening  process. 
The  form  designated  white  or  summer  cheese  is  made  from  whole  milk  to  which  cream 
is  sometimes  added.  The  curd  is  obtained  in  the  ordinary  manner  and  pressed  into 
molds  in  which  it  is  sold  as  fresh  cheese,  summer  cheese,  white  cheese,  or  cream  cheese. 

OLMUTZER   QUARGEL. 

This  is  a  hand  cheese  made  extensively  in  the  western  part  of  Austria.  It  is  1$ 
inches  in  diameter  and  one-third  of  an  inch  thick  and  contains  caraway  seed.  It 
is  made  with  5  per  cent  of  salt  and  after  drying  is  put  in  salt  whey  for  a  time.  It  is 
then  packed  in  kegs  and  ripened  for  eight  to  ten  weeks.  In  all  other  respects  the 
manufacture  is  identical  with  that  of  hand  cheese. 


38  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

PAGLIA. 

This  is  a  more  or  less  successful  imitation  of  Gorgonzola  cheese,  made  in  the  Canton 
of  Ticino,  Switzerland.  A  cheese  is  8  inches  in  diameter  and  2  inches  in  thickness. 
The  milk  is  set  at  a  temperature  of  100°  F. ,  the  time  allowed  being  about  fifteen  minutes. 
The  curd  is  broken  up,  stirred,  and  put  into  hoops.  When  sufficiently  drained  the 
cheese  is  taken  to  a  cool  cellar  and  placed  on  straw,  where  fermentation  is  usually 
very  rapid  and  marked.  The  process  is  delayed  to  some  extent  by  excessive  salting, 
which  is  continued  for  about  one  month.  The  cheese  is  very  soft  in  consistency  and 
has  a  pleasant  aromatic  flavor. 

PAGO. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  sheep's  milk  in  the  Island  of  Pago,  in  the  Province 
of  Dalmatia,  Austria.     It  is  put  up  in  sizes  weighing  from  one-half  to  8  pounds. 

PARMESAN. 

This  name  is  in  common  use  outside  of  Italy  for  the  cheese  made  and  known  in 
that  country  for  centuries  as  Grana,  the  term  grana  or  granona  referring  to  the  granular 
appearance  of  the  cheese  when  broken,  as  is  necessary  on  account  of  the  hardness  of 
the  cheese,  which  makes  cutting  practically  impossible.  There  are  two  quite  distinct 
kinds  of  this  cheese,  one  made  in  Lombardy  and  the  other  in  Emilia,  the  centers  of 
production  being  separated  by  the  River  Po.  Parma,  situated  in  Emilia,  has  long 
been  an  important  commercial  center  for  both  kinds,  and  to  this  fact  the  name  Par- 
mesan is  due.  The  use  of  the  term  Parmesan,  however,  is  sometimes  restricted  to 
the  cheese  made  in  Lombardy,  the  term  Reggian  being  used  to  designate  that  made 
in  Emilia.  Italian  writers  refer  usually  to  the  Lombardy  cheese  as  Cacio  or  Formaggio 
Grana  Lodigiano,  Lodi  being  an  important  center  of  trade,  and  to  the  Emilian  cheese 
as  Grana  Parmigiano  or  Reggiano.  The  Lodi  cheese  is  larger  and  made  from  a  poorer 
quality  of  milk  than  the  Reggian.  The  latter  is  colored  and  brings  a  much  higher 
price.  The  following  description  of  the  process  of  manufacture  applies  equally  well 
to  both  kinds. 

The  milk  which  has  been  skimmed  to  a  greater  or  less  extent  is  heated  in  copper 
kettles  to  a  temperature  varying  according  to  the  acidity  of  the  milk  from  90°  to  100°  F. 
The  kettle  is  then  removed  from  the  fire,  rennet  added,  and  the  kettle  covered  and 
allowed  to  stand  for  twenty  minutes  to  one  hour,  when  the  curd  is  cut  very  fine  and 
cooked,  with  stirring,  to  115°  to  125°  for  fifteen  to  forty-five  minutes.  The  curd  is 
removed  from  the  kettle  by  means  of  a  cloth  and  after  draining  for  a  short  time  is  put 
into  hoops.  These  are  about  10  inches  high  and  18  inches  or  more  in  diameter  and 
are  lined  with  coarse  cloth  before  filling.  Pressure  is  then  applied  for  twenty-four 
hours,  the  cheese  being  turned  frequently  and  the  cloths  changed.  The  salting, 
which  is  begun  in  one  to  three  days  after  removing  from  the  press,  is  continued  for 
a  considerable  length  of  time,  often  forty  days.  The  cheeses  are  then  transferred  to 
a  cool,  well-ventilated  room,  where  they  may  be  stored  for  years,  the  surface  being 
rubbed  with  oil  from  time  to  time.  The  exterior  of  the  cheese  is  dark  green  or  black, 
due  to  coloring  matter  rubbed  on  the  surface.  A  greenish  color  in  the  interior  has 
been  attributed  to  the  contamination  with  copper  from  the  vessels  in  which  the  milk 
is  allowed  to  stand  before  skimming. 

The  Lombardy  cheese  made  from  April  to  September  is  known  locally  as  Sorte 
Maggenga  and  that  from  October  to  March  as  Sorte  Vermenga.  The  Reggian  cheese 
is  made  only  in  summer. 

Parmesan  cheese  when  well  made  may  be  broken  and  grated  easily  and  may  be 
kept  for  an  indefinite  number  of  years.  It  is  grated  and  used  largely  for  soups  and 
with  macaroni.  A  considerable  quantity  of  this  cheese  is  imported  into  this  country 
and  sells  for  a  very  high  price. 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  39 

PECORINO. 

The  Forraaggio  Pecorini  are  the  sheep's-milk  cheeses  made  in  Italy  and  of  which 
there  are  numerous  more  or  less  clearly  defined  kinds.  The  most  common  cheese  of 
this  Borl  is  the  one  designated  Cacio  Pecorino  Romano,  or  merely  Romano.  This 
varies  considerably  in  size  and  shape.  The  weight  may  ranee  from  2  to  25  pounds. 
A  cheese  of  ordinary  size  is  about  10  inches  in  diameter  and  6  inches  in  thickness. 
The  interior  is  slightly  greenish  in  color,  somewhat  granular,  and  devoid  of  eyes  or 
holes.  In  making  Romano  cheese  the  milk  is  heated  to  100°  F.  and  coagulated  by 
rennet  in  fifteen  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut.  coked  to  120°.  stirred,  and  put  into 
forms  and  allowed  to  drain.  Salting  is  done  both  by  immersion  in  brine  and 
rubbing  salt  on  the  surface.  As  much  as  7  to  8  per  cent  of  salt  is  usually  incorporated 
in  the  course  of  one  month.  This  process  is  sometimes  facilitated  by  punching  several 
holes  in  the  cheese.  Ripening  is  usually  done  at  a  temperature  of  60°  to  70°  and 
requires  eight  months  or  longer. 

The  Pecorino  Dolce  is  artificially  o  ilored  with  annatto  and  subjected  to  considerable 
pressure  in  the  process  of  manufacture. 

Pecorino  Tuscano  is  a  smaller  cheese  man  the  Romano,  measuring  usually  0  inches 
in  diameter  and  2  to  4  inches  in  thickness  and  weighing  2  to  5  pour.  .  - 

Among  the  sheep's-milk  cheeses  bearing  local  names  are  the  following:  Ancona, 
Cotrone.  Iglesias.  Leonessa.  Puglia.  and  Viterbo.  In  the  manufacture  of  Viterbo 
cheese  the  milk  is  curdled  by  means  of  a  wild  artichoke.  Cvnara  scolyrr 

PFISTER. 

This  cheese  is  classed  in  the  Emmental  group  though  its  method  of  manufacture 
differs  materially.  It  is  made  from  fresh  skinitned  cow's  milk.  It  takes  its  name 
from  Pfister  Huber.  in  Cham.  Switzerland,  who  evidently  was  the  first  to  manufac- 
ture it. 

The  milk  is  set  at  85°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  thirty  minutes.  The 
curd  is  cut  coarse  and  allowed  to  stand  for  fifteen  minutes  when  the  whey  is  dipped  off. 
The  curd  is  again  stirred  for  five  minutes,  care  being  taken  that  the  temperature  does 
not  fall  below  the  setting  point.  The  curd  is  again  allowed  to  stand  for  five  minutes 
when  it  is  taken  from  the  kettle  in  a  cloth  and  put  in  a  hoop,  where  it  is  pressed  for 
twenty-four  hours,  being  turned  occasionally  and  dry  cloths  substituted.  The  cheese 
is  transferred  from  the  press  to  the  salt  bath  where  it  remains  for  three  days.  It  is 
then  taken  to  a  moist  room  having  a  temperature  of  85°.  Here  it  is  placed  on  shelves 
and  turned  and  salted  occasionally.  The  cheese  is  ready  for  market  at  about  6  weeks 
of  age.  It  is  drum-shaped,  like  a  characteristic  Emmental.  but  not  so  large,  weighing 
about  50  pounds. 

PHILADELPHIA   CREAM. 

This  is  an  ordinary  cream  cheese  put  up  by  a  firm  in  New  York  State.  It  is  3  by  2J 
by  1J  inches  in  size  and  is  wrapped  in  parchment  paper  and  tin  foil. 

PINEAPPLE. 

This  cheese,  which  is  said  to  have  had  ::chfield  County.  Conn.,  about 

1845.  is  so  named  from  the  fruit  of  that  name  which  the  cheese  is  made  to  resemble  in 
shape.  It  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk.  The  cheese  is  quite 
hard  and  is  rather  highly  colored.  The  early  process  of  manufacture  is  the  same  as 
with  Cheddar,  except  that  it  is  cooked  much  harder.  The  curd  is  pressed  in  the 
desired  shape  in  various  sizes  up  to  6  pounds  in  weight.  After  pressing,  the  cheese 
is  dipped  for  a  few  minutes  in  water  at  120°  F.  and  is  then  put  in  a  net  for  twenty- 
four  hours,  which  gives  it  the  diamond-shaped  corrugations  on  the  surface.  It  requires 
several  months  to  ripen  and  during  this  time  the  surface  is  rubbed  with  oil,  which 
makes  it  verv  smooth  and  hard. 


40  VAKIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

PONT  L'EVEQUE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  Three  grades  are  recognized, 
depending  upon  the  quality  of  the  milk  used.  A  Pont  l'Eveque  cheese  is  about  4J 
inches  square  and  lj  inches  thick. 

This  cheese  was  made  in  the  thirteenth  century  in  the  valley  of  Auge  from  which 
it  derived  its  earlier  name  Augelot,  and  by  corruption  Angelot.  The  principal  seat 
of  the  industry  at  the  present  time  is  Pont  l'Eveque  and  vicinity,  in  the  Department 
of  Calvados.  France.  The  manufacture  of  this  cheese  is  of  considerable  importance 
in  the  region  designated.  The  milk  used  may  be  either  whole  milk  with  or  without 
the  addition  of  cream,  a  mixture  of  whole  and  skimmed  milk,  or  milk  entirely  skimmed. 

Coloring  matter  and  warm  or  hot  water  are  usually  added  to  the  milk  before  setting 
with  rennet,  which  is  done  at  a  temperature  of  about  95°  F.  After  standing  for  fifteen 
to  thirty  minutes  the  curd  is  cut.  removed  to  a  draining  board  for  a  few  minutes,  and 
then  put  into  square  forms  or  hoops.  The  cheese  is  turned  very  frequently  during 
the  first  half  hour  and  five  or  six  times  more  during  the  remainder  of  the  first  day. 
It  is  salted  the  second  or  third  day  and  transferred  to  a  well- ventilated  room  for  several 
days.  When  sufficiently  dried  it  is  taken  to  the  curing  cellar.  During  drying  and 
ripening  the  cheeses  are  turned  every  other  day  and  while  in  the  cellar  are  washed 
frequently  with  salt  water.     Ripening  requires  usually  from  three  to  six  weeks. 

PORT  DU  SALUT. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  In  many  respects  it  is  intermediate 
between  the  soft  and  hard  varieties.  The  rind  is  firm  and  resistant  but  the  interior  is 
soft  and  homogeneous,  though  it  does  not  become  semiliquid  like  the  interior  of  Brie 
cheese.  This  variety  of  cheese  originated  about  1865  in  the  Trappist  Abbey,  Port  du 
Salut,  situated  about  6  miles  from  Laval,  in  the  Department  of  Mayenne,  France. 
While  the  process  is  to  some  extent  kept  a  secret  by  the  Trappists,  very  successful 
imitations  are  made  outside  of  the  monasteries  in  this  region. 

The  milk,  either  whole  or  partly  skimmed  and  preferably  slightly  acid,  is  heated  to 
90°  to  95°  F.  and  sufficient  rennet  added  in  order  to  secure  the  desired  firmness  of  the 
curd  in  about  thirty  minutes.  Coloring  matter  is  usually  added  to  the  milk.  The  curd 
is  cut  very  fine  and  in  a  manner  similar  to  that  followed  in  making  Emmental  cheese. 
This  requires  about  twenty  minutes.  A  part  of  the  whey  may  then  be  removed.  The 
curd  is  then  stirred  and  may  be  heated  or  cooked  to  a  moderate  degree.  The  final  tem- 
perature reached  in  cooking  varies  from  100°  to  105°,  depending  upon  the  acidity  of  the 
milk.  The  time  required  in  stirring  and  heating  is  about  twenty  minutes.  The  curd 
is  then  allowed  to  settle  and  the  whey  removed.  After  being  stirred  vigorously  for  two 
to  four  minutes,  the  curd  is  put  into  molds  which  are  of  two  sizes,  the  smaller  about 
7  inches  in  diameter  and  the  larger  about  10  inches.  A  disk  is  placed  on  the  cheese  and 
pressure  applied  by  means  of  presses  for  ten  to  twelve  hours,  the  cheese  being  turned 
and  the  cloths  frequently  changed  during  this  time.  The  next  day  the  hoops  are 
removed  and  the  cheese  salted.  After  drying  for  about  twenty-four  hours,  it  is  trans- 
ferred to  the  ripening  cellar  where  it  remains  from  five  to  six  weeks.  In  this  place  a 
temperature  of  about  55°  and  a  relative  humidity  of  85°  to  90°  is  preferred.  During 
ripening  the  cheeses  are  turned  very  frequently  and  washed  with  salt  water,  the  fre- 
quency depending  somewhat  upon  the  rapidity  with  which  molds  develop.  The 
cheese  is  often  sold  before  the  ripening  process  is  entirely  complete. 

POTATO. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Thuringia  in  the  central  part  of  Germany.  In  the  manufac- 
ture of  potato  cheese,  curd  is  made  from  sour  cow's  milk,  or  in  some  cases  from  renneted 
milk.  Sometimes  sheep's  or  goat's  milk  is  used.  The  potatoes  are  boiled  and  grated 
or  mashed.     One  part  of  the  potatoes  is  thoroughly  mixed  or  kneaded  with  two  or  three 


VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE.  41 

parts  of  the  curd.  In  the  better  cheese  three  parts  of  potatoes  is  mixed  with  two  parts 
of  curd.  During  the  mixing,  salt  is  added  and  sometimes  caraway  seed.  The  cheese  is 
allowed  to  stand  for  two  to  four  days  while  a  fermentation  takes  place.  After  this  the 
curd  is  again  thoroughly  kneaded  and  placed  in  forms  for  a  day.  It  is  then  dried  and 
is  sometimes  covered  with  beer  or  cream.  It  is  finally  placed  in  tubs  and  allowed  to 
ripen  for  fourteen  days. 

POTTED. 

This  domestic  cheese  is  usually  prepared  from  well-ripened  Cheddar  cheese  by  grind- 
ing the  cheese  very  fine  and  incorporating  with  it  butter,  condiments,  spirits,  etc.  It 
is  put  up  in  small  porcelain  jars  and  is  much  in  demand. 

PRATTIGAU. 

This  is  made  from  skimmed  cow's  milk  and  is  so  named  from  the  valley  of  [Switzer- 
land in  which  it  is  made.  Its  manufacture  is  the  same  as  that  of  Limburg.  Cheeses 
weigh  from  20  to  25  pounds. 

PRESTOST. 

Prestost  is  a  product  of  Sweden,  where  it  is  often  called  Saaland  Pfarr.  It  is  a  rennet 
cheese  made  from  fresh  cow's  milk  and  resembles  Gouda.  It  was  known  in  the  eight- 
eenth century.  The  milk  is  set  at  90°  F.  and  is  allowed  to  become  very  firm,  when  it  is 
cut  coarse  with  a  wooden  knife  and  poured  into  a  sieve  which  allows  the  whey  to  drain 
off.  The  curd  is  then  put  into  a  cloth  and  kneaded.  Whisky  is  mixed  with  the  curd, 
which  is  then  packed  in  a  basket,  and  after  some  salt  is  sprinkled  on  the  surface  it  is 
put  in  the  cellar.  The  cloth  inclosing  the  cheese  is  changed  daily  for  three  days,  after 
which  the  cheese  is  washed  with  whisky.  A  cheese  is  cylindrical  in  shape  and  weighs 
5  to  30  pounds. 

PROVIDENCE. 

This  cheese  is  about  8  inches  in  diameter  and  1$  inches  thick,  and  very  closely  resem- 
bles Port  du  Salut.  It  is  made  in  the  monastery  of  Bricquebec  in  the  Department  of 
Manche,  France. 

PROVOLE. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  esteemed  of  the  several  kinds  of  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in 
central  and  southern  Italy  from  cow's  milk,  including  also  that  of  buffaloes.  The 
cheese  is  round  or  oval  and  weighs  from  4  to  6  pounds.  Smaller  sizes  weighing  about 
2  pounds  are  known  as  Provoloni.  In  many  respects,  including  the  cooking  of  the 
curd  with  hot  water  and  the  smoking  of  the  cheese,  Provole  and  Provoloni  resemble 
Caciocavallo.     Considerable  amounts  of  this  cheese  are  imported  into  the  United  States. 

PULTOST. 

Pultost,  also  called  Knaost,  is  made  usually  from  sour  milk  but  it  may  be  made  with 
rennet.  It  is  a  Norwegian  product  and  is  made  in  private  dairies  in  the  mountains  of 
that  country.  The  milk  is  placed  in  a  kettle  and  if  not  sour  enough  to  coagulate  on 
warming  the  acidity  is  increased  by  the  addition  of  buttermilk.  When  sufficient  acid 
has  developed  the  milk  is  warmed  to  113°  F.  The  curd  is  broken  up  with  a  scoop  and 
stirred  to  keep  it  from  matting  together  while  it  is  being  heated  to  140°.  It  is  then 
dipped  and  ground  up  fine.  Buttermilk  is  added  and  the  whole  is  thoroughly  kneaded 
and  put  into  troughs,  where  it  is  covered  with  a  cloth.  It  is  allowed  to  stand'for  three 
days  with  occasional  stirring. 

QUESO  DE  CINCHO. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Venezuela  and  known  also  as  Queso  de  Palma 
Metida.  It  is  exported  in  the  form  of  balls  8  to  16  inches  in  diameter  and  wrapped  in 
palm  leaves. 


42  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

QUESO  DE  HOJA. 

This  isa  Porto  Rican  cheese  made  from  fresh  cow's  milk.  The  curd  is  cut  into  blocks 
about  6  inches  square  and  2  inches  thick.  After  part  of  the  whey  is  drained  off,  which 
may  require  several  hours,  the  pieces  of  curd  are  immersed  in  water  or  whey  having 
a  temperature  of  150°  F.  This  gives  a  tough  layer  to  the  block  of  curd,  which  is  then 
removed  to  a  table  and  pressed  or  stretched  by  the  use  of  a  broad  wooden  spoon  or 
paddle.  Salt  is  sprinkled  on  the  surface  and  the  piece  of  curd  is  folded  and  wrapped 
in  a  cloth  and  squeezed  to  force  out  the  moisture.  The  finished  product  is  about  6 
inches  in  diameter,  1  to  2  inches  thick,  and  has  slightly  rounded  top  and  bottom  sur- 
faces. When  the  cheese  is  cut  it  appears  to  be  in  layers  like  leaves  upon  one  another, 
hence  the  name,  signifying  leaf  cheese. 

QUESO  DE  MANO. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  resembling  a  hand  cheese,  and  is  made  in  Venezuela. 
It  is  6  to  7  inches  in  diameter. 

QUESO  DE  PRENSA. 

This  is  a  Porto  Rican  product,  and  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  unskimmed 
cow's  milk.  The  milk  is  allowed  to  stand  six  hours  without  cooling  and  rennet  is  then 
added.  The  curd  is  broken  by  hand  or  with  a  stick,  and  after  part  of  the  whey  is 
separated  the  curd  is  transferred  to  a  table  and  is  broken  into  small  pieces.  It  is  then 
put  in  wooden  frames,  and  salt  is  added  either  as  the  curd  goes  into  the  frame  or  by 
sprinkling  on  top.  Light  pressure  is  applied,  either  by  hand  or  by  means  of  a  screw. 
After  leaving  the  press  the  cheese  is  placed  on  racks.  It  may  be  eaten  fresh  or  allowed 
to  stand  for  two  to  three  months.  The  cheeses  are  11  inches  long,  5 \  inches  wide,  and 
3  inches  thick,  and  weigh  about  5  pounds.     The  name  signifies  pressed  cheese. 

QUESO  DE  PUNA. 

This  is  a  Porto  Rican  product,  resembling  very  much  the  Cottage  or  Dutch  cheese 
of  the  United  States.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  and  the  curd  is  thoroughly  mashed 
or  kneaded  by  hand,  salt  being  added  at  the  same  time.  The  curd  is  put  in  a  hoop  5 
inches  in  diameter  and  \\  inches  deep,  where  it  remains  without  pressure  for  two  or 
three  days,  or  until  it  will  keep  its  form.     The  cheese  is  eaten  fresh. 

RABACAL. 

This  is  a  round,  rather  firm  cheese  made  from  the  milk  of  sheep  and  goats  in  the 
vicinity  of  Coimbra,  Portugal.     A  cheese  is  4  to  5  inches  in  diameter  and  1  inch  thick. 

RADEN. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  in  Mecklenburg.  The  cheeses 
are  16  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  thick,  and  weigh  32  pounds.  The  process  of 
manufacture  does  not  differ  materially  from  that  of  Emmental. 

RANGIPORT. 

This  cheese  is  in  every  way  analogous  to  Port  du  Salut.  It  is  about  6  inches  in 
diameter  and  2\  inches  thick  and  weighs  about  2\  pounds.  It  is  made  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Seine-et-Oise,  France. 

RAYON. 

This  is  a  special  type  of  Emmental  cheese -made  largely  in  the  Canton  of  Fribourg, 
Switzerland,  for  exportation  to  Italy,  though  some  is  now  manufactured  in  Italy. 
It  is  made  of  partly  skimmed  milk,  and  the  cooking  is  continued  to  a  point  that  insures 
a  very  dry  hard  cheese  which  develops  no  eyes.     After  curing  it  is  shipped  largely 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  43 

to  Turin,  where  it  is  placed  on  edge  on  shelves  in  a  dry,  warm  cave,  and  the  fat  leaks 
out,  leaving  the  cheese  exceedingly  dry  and  hard,  when  it  is  used  for  grating.  After 
the  drying  process  the  cheese  is  called  Raper. 

REBBIOLA. 

Rebbiola,  or  Robiola,  is  a  soft  cheese  made  principally  in  the  Alpine  districts  of 
Italy.  The  process  of  manufacture  is  very  simple.  It  is  generally  made  from  milk 
skimmed  after  twelve  hours,  but  whole  milk  is  sometimes  used.  The  cheese  is  circular 
and  weighs  about  2  pounds.  The  ripening  process  is  very  rapid,  requiring  usually 
twelve  to  fifteen  days.  The  milk  is  set  at  a  temperature  of  90°  F.,  the  time  allowed 
being  usually  about  one-half  hour.  The  curd  is  cut  fine  and  put  into  molds  8  inches 
in  diameter  and  6  inches  high,  the  bottom  being  perforated.  Five  hours  later  the 
cheeses  are  removed  from  the  molds  and  placed  on  a  draining  board  covered  with 
straw.     After  two  or  three  days  they  are  salted  and  then  ripened. 

REBLOCHON. 

This  i§  a  soft  French  cheese  weighing  1  to  2  pounds.  It  is  made  from  fresh  whole 
milk  which  is  curdled  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  80°  F.  or  above,  the  time 
allowed  being  about  thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  to  the  size  of  peas,  cooked  to 
about  95°,  and  after  the  removal  of  the  whey  is  put  into  molds  about  6  inches  in 
diameter  and  2  inches  in  height.  A  weight  of  about  5  pounds  is  placed  upon  each 
cheese,  which  is  turned  frequently  and  salted  after  about  twelve  hours.  In  a  moist 
room  having  a  temperature  of  about  60°  the  desired  degree  of  ripening  is  secured  in 
four  to  five  weeks.  An  imitation  of  this  cheese,  made  in  Savoy,  France,  is  known  as 
Brizecon. 

REINDEER   MILK. 

In  Norway  and  Sweden  the  milk  of  the  reindeer  is  sometimes  used  for  cheesemak- 
ing.  Rennet  is  added  at  100°  F.,  and  the  curd  is  cut  and  dipped  into  a  large  frame, 
where  it  is  pressed  lightly.  The  mass  of  curd  is  then  cut  into  pieces  5  by  4  by  2\ 
inches,  which  are  salted  on  the  surface  and  are  allowed  to  ripen  in  a  dry  curing  room. 

RIESENGEBIRGE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  goat's  milk  in  the  mountains  on  the  northern 
border  of  Bohemia.  The  milk  is  set  at  about  90°  F.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  the 
whey  dipped  off,  after  which  the  curd  is  put  in  forms,  where  it  remains  in  a  warm 
place  for  twenty-four  hours.  It  is  then  covered  with  salt  and  after  drying  for  three 
to  four  days  is  placed  in  the  curing  cellar.  From  each  100  pounds  of  milk  18  pounds  of 
cheese  is  secured. 

RINNEN. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  which  was  known  in  the  eighteenth  century.  It  is  made 
in  Pomerania  from  milk  sufficiently  acid  to  cause  a  precipitation  of  the  curd  when  it 
is  warmed  to  about  90°  F.  The  cheese  derives  its  name  from  the  wooden  trough  in 
which  it  is  laid  to  drain.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  heated  to  expel  the  whey.  The 
curd  is  kneaded  by  hand  and  caraway  seed  is  added.  It  is  molded  into  forms  and 
pressed.  Salt  is  then  rubbed  on  the  outside.  The  cheese  is  dried  and  put  in  a  box 
to  ripen. 

ROLL. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  in  England  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk.  It  is 
cylindrical  in  shape,  8  inches  high  by  9  inches  in  diameter.  A  cheese  weighs  20 
pounds. 


44  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

ROLLOT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  2\  inches  in  diameter  and  2  inches  thick,  made  in  the 
Departments  of  Somme  and  Oise,  France. 

ROMADOUR. 

Romadour,  Remoudou,  or  Romatur  cheese  is  a  southern  Bavarian  product  similar 
to  Limburg.  It  is  4|  by  2  by  2  inches  in  size  and  -weighs  1  pound.  It  is  said  to  be 
a  little  finer  variety  of  cheese  than  Limburg  and  to  sell  for  a  slightly  higher  price. 

ROQUEFORT. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  the  milk  of  sheep.  There  are,  however, 
numerous  imitations  or  varieties  closely  resembling  Roquefort,  such  as  Gex  and  Sept- 
moncel,  made  from  cow's  milk.  One  of  the  most  striking  characteristics  of  this  cheese 
is  the  mottled  or  marbled  appearance  of  the  interior,  due  to  the  development  of  a 
penicillium,  which  is  the  principal  ripening  agent.  The  manufacture  of  Roquefort 
cheese  has  been  carried  on  in  the  southeastern  part  of  France  for  at  least  two  cen- 
turies. The  industry  is  particularly  important  in  the  Department  of  Aveyron, 
in  which  is  situated  the  village  of  Roquefort,  from  which  the  cheese  derives  its 
name.  It  is  also  made  in  Corsica.  Imitations  of  Roquefort  cheese  are  made  in  various 
countries. 

The  evening's  milk  is  heated  to  140°  to  150°  F.,  cooled,  and  kept  over  night.  After 
being  skimmed  it  is  mixed  with  the  fresh  morning's  milk.  The  mixture  is  then  set 
with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  90°.  In  from  one  to  two  hours  after  the  addi- 
tion of  rennet  the  curd  is  cut  until  the  particles  are  about  the  size  of  walnuts.  The 
whey  which  rises  to  the  surface  is  dipped  off  and  the  curd  is  put  into  hoops  which 
are  about  8i  inches  in  diameter  and  3|  inches  in  height.  The  hoops  are  filled  usu- 
ally in  three  layers,  a  layer  of  moldy  bread  crumbs  being  interspersed  between  the 
first  and  second  and  second  and  third  layers.  The  bread  used  for  this  purpose  is 
prepared  from  wheat  and  barley  flour  with  the  addition  of  whey  and  a  little  vinegar. 
It  is  thoroughly  baked  and  kept  in  a  moist  place  for  four  to  six  weeks,  during  which 
time  it  becomes  permeated  with  a  growth  of  the  mold  referred  to.  The  crust  is  re- 
moved and  the  interior  is  crumbled  very  fine  and  sifted.  The  cheese  is  subjected  to 
pressure  which  is  gradually  increased  for  ten  to  twelve  hours.  It  is  turned  usually 
one  hour  after  putting  into  hoops.  At  the  end  of  about  twelve  hours  it  is  wrapped 
in  cloth  and  taken  to  the  first  curing  room.  The  cloths  are  frequently  changed  dur- 
ing the  ten  to  twelve  days  the  cheese  remains  in  this  place. 

Formerly  the  manufacture  of  the  cheese  up  to  this  stage  was  carried  on  by  the 
shepherds  themselves,  but  in  recent  years  centralized  factories  have  been  established 
and  much  of  the  milk  is  collected  and  there  made  into  cheese.  The  cheese  is  then 
taken  to  the  caves.  These  are  for  the  most  part  natural  caverns  which  exist  in  large 
numbers  in  the  region  of  Roquefort.  The  temperature  in  these  caves  is  40°  to  45°, 
and  the  air  circulates  very  freely  through  them.  Recently,  artificial  caves  have  been 
constructed  and  used.  When  the  cheeses  reach  the  caves  they  are  salted,  which 
serves  to  check  the  growth  of  the  mold  on  the  surface.  One  or  two  days  later  they 
are  rubbed  vigorously  with  cloth  and  are  afterwards  subjected  to  thorough  scraping 
with  knives,  a  process  formerly  done  by  hand,  but  now  much  more  satisfactorily  and 
economically  by  machinery.  The  salting,  scraping,  or  brushing  seems  to  check  the 
development  of  mold  on  the  surface.  In  order  to  favor  the  growth  of  mold  in  the  in- 
terior, the  cheese  is  pierced  by  machinery  with  60  to  100  small  steel  needles,  which 
process  permits  the  free  access  of  air.  The  cheese  may  be  sold  after  thirty  to  forty 
days  or  may  remain  in  the  caves  as  long  as  five  months,  depending  upon  the  degree  of 
ripening  desired.  The  cheese  loses  during  ripening  by  scraping  and  evaporation  as 
much  as  25  per  cent  of  the  original  weight.  The  weight  when  ripened  is  about  4J 
to  5  pounds. 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  45 

SAANEN. 

This  is  a  type  of  Emmental  cheese  made  in  Switzerland  from  cow's  milk.  It  is 
sometimes  known  as  Ilartkase.  Reibkase,  and-Walliskase.  First  mentioned  in  the 
sixteenth  century,  it  is  still  manufactured  extensively  at  the  present  time  and  ex- 
ported to  a  limited  extent.  It  sells  for  a  higher  price  than  the  regular  Emmental. 
The  process  of  manufacture  is  identical  with  that  of  Emmental  except  that  it  is 
cooked  much  dryer,  takes  much  longer  to  cure,  and  keeps  longer.  The  cheese  weighs 
from  10  to  20  pounds.     The  eyes  are  few  and  small. 

The  ripening  period  is  never  less  than  three  years  and  many  require  as  long  as  nine 
years,  the  average  being  six  years.  The  cheeses  are  kept  to  great  ages,  it  being  the 
custom  to  make  a  cheese  at  the  birth  of  a  child  and  eat  it  at  the  burial  feast  or  even 
at  the  burial  feast  of  a  sun  of  the  child  for  whom  it  is  made.  One  cheese  is  mentioned 
as  being  two  hundred  years  old  and  is  considered  a  great  honor  to  the  household. 
Many  cheeses  are  kept  until  they  are  thirty  years  old. 

SAGE. 

This  cheese  is  made  by  the  ordinary  Cheddar  process,  and  may  be  of  any  of  tho 
various  shapes  and  sizes  in  which  that  cheese  is  pressed.  As  seen  when  cut  it  has  a 
green  mottled  appearance. 

Formerly  sage  cheese  was  made  by  mixing  green  sage  leaves  with  the  curd  before 
it  was  pressed.  At  the  present  time  the  flavor  of  sage  is  obtained  by  sage  extract. 
To  secure  the  green  mottles,  succulent  green  corn  is  cut  fine  and  the  juice  is  pressed 
out.  A  small  portion  of  the  milk  is  mixed  with  this  juice  and  is  set  with  rennet  in  a 
small  vat  while  the  bulk  of  the  milk  is  set  in  the  ordinary  manner.  After  the  curd  is 
cut  and  is  firm  enough  to  be  handled,  the  green  curd  from  the  small  vat  is  mixed 
with  the  uncolored  curd,  and  the  process  is  continued  as  in  the  Cheddar  process. 
This  is  a  very  popular  variety  of  cheese  with  many  consumers. 

SAINT  CLAUDE. 

This  is  a  small,  square,  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  the  region  of  Saint  Claude, 
France.  The  milk  is  curdled  with  rennet  and  the  curd  placed  in  molds  for  six  to 
eight  hours.  It  is  then  salted  and  allowed  to  ripen,  or  may,  however,  be  eaten  when 
fresh.     A  cheese  weighs  from  one-quarter  to  one-half  pound. 

SAINT  BENOIT. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Olivet,  and  is  made  in  the  Department  of 
Loiret,  France.  Charcoal  is  added  to  the  salt  which  is  applied  to  the  exterior  of  the 
cheese.  Ripening  requires  from  twelve  to  fifteen  days  in  summer  and  eighteen  to 
twenty  days  in  winter.     A  cheese  is  about  6  inches  in  diameter. 

SAINT  MARCELLIN. 

This  is  a  goat's-milk  cheese  made  in  the  Department  of  Isere,  France.  Sheep's 
milk  or  even  cow's  milk  may  be  mixed  with  the  goat's  milk.  A  cheese  is  about  3 
inches  in  diameter  and  three-fourths  of  an  inch  thick  and  weighs  about  one-fourth 
pound. 

SAINT  REMY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  differing  but  little  from  Pont  1'Eveque.  It  is  made  in 
the  Department  of  Haute-Saone,  France. 

SALOIO. 

This  is  a  kind  of  hand  cheese  made  from  skimmed  cow's  milk  on  farms  in  the  region 
of  Lisbon,  Portugal.  It  has  the  form  of  a  short  cylinder,  measures  lj  to  2  inches  in 
diameter,  and  weighs  about  4  ounces.  A  similar  cheese  of  about  the  same  character 
is  made  in  Thomar,  about  50  miles  north  of  Lisbon. 


46  VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE. 

SAP  SAGO. 

This  cheese  is  made  from  sour  skimmed  cow's  milk  principally  in  Glarus,  (Switzer- 
land. It  is  known  also  as  Schabzieger,  Glarnerkase,  Griinerkase,  and  Krauterkase. 
It  is  claimed  to  have  been  made  in  the  thirteenth  century;  the  authentic  history  at 
least  dates  back  to  the  fifteenth  century.  Sap  Sago  is  a  small,  hard  green  cheese  fla- 
vored with  the  leaves  of  a  species  of  clover;  it  is  shaped  like  a  truncated  cone,  4  inches 
high,  3  inches  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  2  inches  at  the  top.  This  cheese  is  imported 
to  some  extent  into  the  United  States  under  the  name  of  Sap  Sago. 

The  skimmed  milk  from  which  this  cheese  is  made  is  not  allowed  to  become  sour 
enough  to  coagulate  on  heating,  as  it  would  make  too  hard  a  curd .  The  milk  when  it 
has  reached  the  right  acidity  is  heated  to  the  boiling  temperature  while  being  stirred. 
Cold  buttermilk  is  then  added,  as  is  also  some  whey  having  a  high  percentage  of  acid- 
ity. The  material  coagulating  on  the  surface  is  skimmed  off.  The  milk  is  then 
stirred  while  sufficient  acid  whey  is  added  to  precipitate  the  casein.  When  too  little 
whey  is  used  the  curd  is  too  soft,  and  when  too  much  is  used  it  is  too  hard.  The  curd 
is  dipped  with  a  skimmer  and  spread  out  to  cool  and  then  put  in  boxes  and  allowed  to 
drain  and  ferment.  The  box  is  kept  at  a  temperature  of  about  60°  F.  and  pressure  is 
applied  by  weighting  with  stones.  Ripening  is  allowed  to  continue  for  three  to  six 
weeks.  If  the  temperature  of  the  room  is  too  high  or  there  is  not  sufficient  pressure, 
too  rapid  and  strong  fermentation  results.  This  curd  is  used  for  making  the  finished 
product,  but  the  cheese  is  seldom  finished  where  the  curd  is  made.  The  curd  is 
ground  in  a  mill  and  every  100  pounds  of  cheese  contains  5  pounds  of  salt  and  25 
pounds  of  dried  Melilotus  cxrulea,  an  aromatic  clover  which  is  grown  in  the  Canton  of 
Schweiz  for  the  purpose.  The  ground  material  is  worked  up  into  a  dough  and  is 
forced  into  molds  lined  with  linen  cloth,  and  the  name  of  the  manufacturer  is  stamped 
on  the  large  end.  The  mold  >s  then  emptied  and  refilled.  The  cheeses  are  dumped 
promiscuously  into  a  large  cask  holding  about  200  pounds.  A  comparatively  small 
quantity  is  shipped  into  this  country.     It  sells  at  a  low  price  and  is  usually  grated. 

SASSENAGE. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese,  about  12  inches  in  diameter  and  3  inches  in  height, 
made  from  cow's  milk  to  which  small  quantities  of  goat's  and  sheep's  milk  are  usually 
added.  The  cheese  is  almost  identical  with  that  of  Gex  and  Septmoncel.  It  derives 
its  name  from  the  village  of  Sassenage,  near  Grenoble,  in  the  Department  of  Isere, 
France.  The  milk  used  is  usually  a  mixture  of  skimmed  milk  and  whole  milk.  It  is 
Bet  with  rennet  and  the  curd  is  cut  and  put  into  molds  in  the  same  manner  as  with  the 
other  varieties  mentioned.  The  same  is  also  true  of  the  ripening  process,  which 
requires  about  two  months. 

SCANNO. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  from  the  milk  of  sheep  in  the  Apennine  Mountains, 
in  the  Province  of  Abruzzo,  Italy.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  village  of  Scanno. 
The  surface  of  the  cheese  is  colored  a  deep  black.  The  interior  is  bright  yellow  and 
has  the  consistency  of  butter. 

SCARMORZE. 

This  is  a  small  rennet  cheese  made  in  southern  Italy  from  the  milk  of  buffaloes. 

SCHAMSER. 

This  cheese,  which  is  also  known  as  Rheinwaid,  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from 
skimmed  cow's  milk  in  the  Canton  Graubunden,  Switzerland.  The  cheeses  weigh 
from  40  to  45  pounds  and  are  18  inches  in  diameter  and  5  inches  high. 


'varieties  of  cheese.  47 

SCHLOSS. 

Schlosskase,  or  Castle  cheese,  is  a  Limburg  cheese  made  in  the  northern  part  of 
Austria.  It  is  a  soft  cured  rennet  cheese  4  by  2  by  2  inches  in  size.  When  ready  for 
market  it  is  wrapped  in  tin  foil . 

SCHOTTENGSIED. 

This  is  a  whey  cheese  made  by  the  peasants  of  the  Alps  for  home  use. 

SCHWARZENBERG. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  southern  Bohemia  and  western  Hungary.  It  is  a  rennet 
cheese  made  from  partly  skimmed  cow's  milk.  One  part  of  skimmed  milk  is  added  to 
two  parts  of  fresh  milk.  In  about  one  hour  after  the  addition  of  rennet  the  curd  is 
broken  up  and  thoroughly  stirred.  It  is  then  dipped  into  wooden  forms  and  light 
pressure  applied  for  half  a  day.  For  four  or  five  days  following  the  cheese  is  rubbed 
with  salt  and  is  then  taken  to  the  cellar,  where  it  is  washed  daily  with  salt  water  until 
ripe,  which  requires  two  to  three  months. 

SENECTERRE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  originating  at  Saint  Nectaire,  in  the  Department  of 
Puy-de-D6me,  France.  It  is  made  out  of  whole  milk,  is  cylindrical  in  shape,  and 
weighs  about  1£  pounds. 

SEPTMONCEL. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  to  which  a  small  proportion  of 
goat's  milk  is  sometimes  added.  It  resembles  the  Gex  and  Sassenage  varieties  very 
closely  and  its  process  of  manufacture  is  almost  identical  with  that  of  Roquefort.  It 
is  also  known  as  Jura  blue  cheese.  It  derives  its  name  from  the  village  of  Septmoncel, 
near  Saint-Claude,  in  the  Department  of  Jura,  where  the  cheese  is  for  the  most  part 
made.  The  cheese  is  made  almost  exclusively  on  isolated  farms  rather  than  in  co- 
operative dairies,  and  the  methods  employed  are  somewhat  rudimentary. 

The  milk,  which  is  usually  partly  skimmed,  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of 
about  85°  F .  The  curd  is  cut  and  stirred  after  about  one  and  one-half  hours.  After  the 
curd  has  settled  the  whey  is  poured  off.  The  stirring  and  draining  are  repeated  sev- 
eral times  until  the  curd  is  sufficiently  firm  to  put  into  hoops.  Moderate  pressure  is 
applied  for  a  few  hours.  The  cheese  is  salted  at  the  end  of  twenty-four  hours  and 
thereafter  daily  for  several  days.  It  is  then  transferred  to  the  first  curing  room,  which 
is  kept  cool  and  moist.  After  three  to  four  weeks  it  has  become  covered  with  blue 
mold,  when  it  is  transferred  to  cellars  or  natural  caves,  where  the  ripening  is  completed 
in  from  three  to  four  weeks  longer. 

SERRA  DA  ESTRELLA. 

This  is  the  most  highly  prized  of  the  several  kinds  of  cheeses  made  in  Portugal. 
The  name  refers  to  the  mountainous  region  iu  which  the  cheese  is  produced.  It  is 
made  for  the  most  part  from  the  milk  of  sheep,  but  goat's  milk  is  often  added  to  this 
or  even  used  alone,  and  occasionally  cow's  milk  is  used. 

The  method  of  making  this  cheese  is  comparatively  simple.  The  milk  is  warmed 
in  a  kettle  with  little  regard  to  the  temperature  obtained,  and  is  coagulated  in  most 
cases  by  means  of  an  extract  of  the  flowers  of  a  kind  of  thistle.  The  time  required  for 
curdling  varies  from  two  to  six  hours,  depending  upon  the  amount  of  the  extract  used. 
The  curd  is  broken  up  with  a  ladle  or  by  hand,  squeezed  to  remove  most  of  the  whey, 
and  put  into  circular  forms.  After  draining  until  sufficiently  firm  the  cheeses  are  re- 
moved from  the  hoops  and  allowed  to  ripen  for  several  weeks,  during  which  time  they 
are  frequently  washed  with  whey  and  salted  on  the  surface.     The  cheeses  vary  much 


48  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

in  size,  the  larger  measuring  about  10  inches  in  diameter  and  2  inches  thick,  and  weigh- 
ing about  5  pounds.     The  cheese  is  rather  soft  and  has  a  pleasant  acid  taste. 
A  similar  cheese  made  in  another  part  of  Portugal  is  known  as  Castello  Branco. 

SERVIAN. 

In  making  Servian  cheese  the  milk  is  warmed  in  a  kettle  over  a  fire  or  in  a  tub  by 
immersing  heated  stones.  After  the  rennet  is  added  the  milk  is  allowed  to  stand  one 
hour.  The  curd  is  then  lifted  in  a  cloth  and  the  whey  allowed  to  drain.  It  is  then 
placed  in  a  wooden  vessel,  salted,  and  covered  successively  with  whey  for  about  eight 
days  and  fresh  milk  for  about  six  days. 

SILESIAN. 

A  cheese  known  locally  as  Schlesischer  Weichquarg  is  made  from  skimmed  cow's 
milk,  the  process  of  manufacture  resembling  that  of  hand  cheese.  The  milk  is  allowed 
to  coagulate  from  souring  and  the  curd  is  broken  up  and  cooked  at  100°  F.  for  a  short 
period.  The  curd  is  then  put  in  a  cloth  sack  and  light  pressure  applied  for  twenty-four 
hours,  after  which  it  is  kneaded  by  hand  and  salt  and  milk  or  cream  are  added.  Fla- 
voring substances  such  as  onions  or  caraway  seed  are  also  sometimes  added.  The 
cheese  is  eaten  fresh. 

Another  cheese  known  as  Schlesischer  Sauermilchkase  is  also  made  in  much  the 
same  way  as  hand  cheese.  The  cheeses  are  kept  on  shelves  covered  with  straw,  and 
are  dried  by  the  stove  in  winter  and  in  a  latticework  house  in  summer.  Drying  is  con- 
tinued until  the  cheese  becomes  very  hard.  The  cheese  is  ripened  in  a  cellar,  the 
process  requiring  three  to  eight  weeks,  during  which  time  it  is  washed  every  few  days 
with  warm  water. 

SIRAZ. 

This  is  a  Servian  cheese  made  as  a  rule  from  whole  milk.  The  milk  is  set  at  104°  F. 
and  the  curd  is  lifted  from  the  whey  with  a  cloth  and  pressed  into  cakes  4  to  6  inches 
in  diameter  and  1  inch  thick.  These  cakes  are  placed  in  the  sun  to  dry  until  the  fat 
commences  to  run,  when  they  are  rubbed  several  times  with  salt  until  a  good  crust  is 
formed.  The  cakes  are  then  packed  in  a  wooden  vessel  and  allowed  to  ripen.  The  cut 
surface  shows  a  smooth  appearance  without  holes.  It  is  between  a  hard  and  a  soft 
cheese. 

SLIPCOTE. 

This  cheese  is  made  in  Rutlandshire,  England.  It  is  a  soft  unripened  rennet  cheese, 
made  from  cow's  milk.  The  curd  is  dipped  into  small  forms  and  no  pressure  is  applied. 
After  the  cheese  is  removed  from  the  form  the  surface  dries  and  cracks  and  is  easily 
slipped  off,  hence  the  name.  It  is  an  old  cheese,  having  been  well  known  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  eighteenth  century. 

SPALEN. 

This  is  a  type  of  Emmental  cheese,  and  is  sometimes  known  as  Stringer.  Its  origin 
is  unknown.  It  is  made  largely  in  the  Canton  of  Unterwalden,  Switzerland ,  from  sweet 
cow's  milk,  often  partly  skimmed.  The  name  it  derived  from  the  vessel  in  which  the 
cheeses  are  transported  and  in  which  five  or  six  of  them  are  packed.  This  is  a  small 
cheese  for  an  Emmental  type.     Each  cheese  weighs  from  35  to  40  pounds. 

No  thermometer  is  used  in  the  manufacture,  the  temperature  being  judged  by  the 
feeling,  and  a  very  uneven  product  is  the  result.  The  process  of  making  seems  to  vary 
much,  the  press  consisting  of  a  board  with  stones  for  weights,  and  the  temperature  of 
the  cellar  being  poorly  regulated. 

SPITZ. 

This  is  a  small  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk.  The  cheese  is  cylindrical  in 
shape,  being  4  inches  high  and  \\  inches  in  diameter. 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  49 

STEPPES. 

This  name  is  applied  to  a  Russian  cheese  made  from  whole  milk.  The  milk  after  the 
addition  of  coloring  matter  is  heated  to  about  90°  F.  and  treated  with  sufficient  rennet 
to  secure  coagulation  in  forty  to  forty-five  minutes.  The  curd  is  cut  into  large  cubes, 
the  whey  removed  slowly,  and  the  curd  still  further  broken  up  until  the  particles  are 
uniformly  about  the  size  of  peas.  The  curd  is  then  heated  gradually  to  100°  to  104°, 
the  mass  meanwhile  being  gently  agitated.  The  stirring  is  kept  up  for  some  time  after 
heating  ceases  until  the  curd  becomes  dry,  when  it  is  placed  in  molds  10  by  5£  by  7 
inches.  After  the  cheeses  are  removed  from  the  molds  they  are  turned  frequently  and 
five  hours  later  are  salted  and  transferred  to  the  curing  cellar,  where  a  temperature  of 
about  55°  is  maintained.  During  ripening  the  cheeses  are  worked  occasionally  with 
salt  water  and  turned  frequently. 

STILTON. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese,  the  best  of  which  is  made  from  cow's  milk  to  which 
a  portion  of  eream  has  been  added.  It  was  (list  made  near  the  village  of  Stilton,  Hunt- 
ingdonshire. England,  about  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century.  It  is  now  made 
principally  in  Leicestershire  and  West  Rutlandshire,  though  its  manufacture  has 
extended  to  other  parts  of  England.  Its  manufacture  has  been  tried,  though  without 
success,  in  the  Tinted  States.  The  cheese  is  about  7  inches  in  diameter  and  9  inches 
high,  and  weighs  12  to  15  pounds.  It  has  a  very  characteristic  wrinkled  or  ridged 
skin  or  rind,  which  is  likely  caused  by  the  drying  of  molds  and  bacteria  on  the  sur- 
face. When  cut  it  shows  blue  or  green  portions  of  mold  which  give  its  characteristic 
piquant  flavor.  The  price  in  this  country  is  about  45  cents  a  pound  wholesale.  The 
cheese  belongs  to  the  same  group  as  the  Roquefort  of  France  and  the  Gorgonzola  of 
Italy. 

The  morning"s  milk  is  put  in  a  tin  vat  and  the  cream  from  the  night's  milk  is  added, 
and  the  whole  is  brought  to  a  temperature  of  80°  F.,  when  the  rennet  is  added.  It 
is  claimed  by  some  cheese  makers  that  the  curd  should  be  softer  when  broken  up  or 
cut  than  the  curd  for  Cheddar  cheese,  while  by  others  it  is  believed  that  it  should 
become  very  firm  before  it  is  disturbed,  allowing  one  to  two  hours  for  setting.  When 
sufficiently  Arm  the  curd  is  dipped  into  cloths  which  are  placed  in  tin  strainers.  After 
draining  for  one  hour  the  cloths  containing  the  curd  are  packed  closely  together  in 
a  large  tub  and  allowed  to  remain  for  twelve  hours,  when  they  are  again  tightened 
and  packed  for  eighteen  hours.  The  curd  is  ground  up  coarse,  and  salt  is  added, 
1  pound  to  60  pounds  of  curd.  The  curd  is  then  put  into  tin  hoops  8  inches  in  diam- 
eter and  10  inches  deep.  The  cheeses  remain  in  the  hoops  for  six  days,  when  they 
are  bandaged  for  twelve  days,  or  until  they  become  firm,  and  are  then  placed  in  the 
curing  room  at  65°.  Ripened  Stilton  cheese  is  of  late  often  ground  up  and  put  into 
jars  holding  1  to  2|  pounds. 

STRACCHINO. 

This  name  is  applied  to  several  forms  of  Italian  soft  cheeses,  the  best  known  of 
which  is  Stracchino  di  Gorgonzola.  which  is  described  under  the  name  of  Gorgonzola. 
A  square  form  6  to  8  inches  on  a  side  and  1J  inches  thick  is  known  as  Stracchino  di 
Milano,  Fresco.  Quadro.  or  Quartirola.  This  cheese  is  prepared  similarly  to  Gorgonzola 
but  is  allowed  to  ripen  for  only  about  two  months.  It  is  not  much  exported.  Strac- 
chino Crescenza  is  a  very  soft  and  highly  colored  cheese  usually  eaten  fresh.  The 
form  is  similar  to  that  of  the  Quartirola.  It  is  usually  marketed  in  about  eight  days 
and  can  not  be  kept  long. 

STYRIA. 

This  is  a  cylindrical-shaped  cheese  made  from  unskimmed  cow's  milk  in  Styria, 
Austria. 


50  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

SWEET  CURD. 

This  is  a  name  applied  in  the  United  States  to  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  from 
cow's  milk.  The  name  is  used  to  distinguish  it  from  the  ordinary  Cheddar  or  granu- 
lar process,  as  in  making  Sweet  Curd  cheese  the  milk  is  set  sweet  and  the  cutting  and 
cooking  are  done  rapidly  without  regard  to  the  development  of  acid.  In  making 
this  cheese  the  curd  is  cooked  very  firm  and  is  salted  and  put  to  press  immediately. 
In  all  other  respects  the  process  is  the  same  as  for  Cheddar,  and  the  cheese  when  ripened 
resembles  that  cheese  very  closely. 

SWISS. 

Swiss  or  Schweitzer  cheese  belongs  to  the  Emmental  group  of  cheeses  and  is  made 
usually  from  half-skimmed  cow's  milk.  Its  manufacture  is  very  old.  It  is  supposed 
to  have  originated  in  the  Alps,  but  is  now  made  in  most  of  the  surrounding  countries. 
It  is  made  mostly  in  the  winter  season  when  the  price  of  butter  is  high,  and  only  for 
local  consumption.  Its  manufacture  differs  from,  real  Emmental  in  thaj;  it  is  made 
from  half-skimmed  milk.  The  morning's  milk  is  first  heated  and  the  skimmed  even- 
ing's milk  is  added.  The  curd  is  cut  coarser  and  is  not  cooked  so  firm  as  Emmental, 
which  gives  a  softer  and  more  quickly  ripened  cheese. 

TAFI. 

This  cheese  is  manufactured  in  the  Province  of  Tucuman,  in  the  Argentine  Republic. 

TAMIE. 

This  cheese  is  made  by  the  Trappists  in  Savoy.  France.  The  whole  milk  is  heated 
to  about  80°  F.  and  coagulated  with  rennet  in  about  thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is 
cut  fine,  cooked  to  about  100°.  stirred,  and  put  into  molds  7  inches  in  diameter  and 
4  inches  in  height.  The  cheese  is  pressed  for  six  to  eight  hours,  the  cloths  being 
changed  frequently.  After  being  salted  the  cheese  is  ripened  for  five  to  six  weeks. 
The  method  of  manufacture  is  to  a  large  extent,  a  trade  secret.  The  Tome  de  Beau- 
mont is  a  more  or  less  successful  imitation. 

TEXEL. 

This  is  a  sheep's-milk  cheese  made  in  Holland.  It  was  known  in  the  seventeenth 
century.     A  cheese  weighs  3  to  4  pounds  and  is  colored  green. 

THENAY. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  Vendome  and  is  made  in  the 
region  of  Thenay  in  the  Department  of  Loir-et-Cher,  France.  It  is  of  comparatively 
recent  origin  and  its  consumption -is  limited  practically  to  the  region  in  which  it  is 
produced. 

The  evening's  milk  without  being  skimmed  is  mixed  with  the  fresh  morning's  milk. 
The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  85°  F.  and  allowed  to  stand  for 
four  to  five  hours.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  and  put  into  hoops  about  5  inches 
in  diameter  and  4  inches  in  height.  After  draining  for  about  one  day  it  is  turned  and 
salted.  The  cheese  is  then  kept  for  about  twenty  days  in  a  well-ventilated  room 
during  which  time  it  becomes  covered  with  molds.  It  is  then  taken  to  the  curing  cellar 
for  about  fifteen  days. 

TIGNARD. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese,  resembling  Gex  and  Sassenage,  made  from  sheep's 
and  goat's  milk  in  the  valley  of  the  Tigne,  in  Savoy,  France. 


VARIETIES   OP   CHEESE.  51 

TILSIT. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cheese  made  mainly  in  East  Prussia  from  unskimmed  cow's 
milk.  It  is  sometimes  called  Ragnit.  The  milk  is  set  at  92°  F.  with  sufficient  rennet 
to  coagulate  in  from  fifteen  to  forty  minutes.  The  curd  is  rather  coarsely  cut  or  broken 
and  is  cooked  to  104°  to  110°,  being  stirred  meanwhile  with  a  harp.  The  curd  is  cooked 
quite  firm  or  until  it  can  not  be  squeezed  through  between  the  lingers,  which  requires 
about  forty  minutes.  It  is  then  dipped  into  cylindrical  forms,  where  it  remains 
twenty-four  hours.  The  cheese  is  then  covered  thickly  with  salt  for  from  one  to  two 
days,  when  it  is  put  into  a  salt  bath  for  three  to  live  days  and  then  transferred  to  the 
cellar.  Here  it  is  rubbed  and  washed  with  salt  water  frequently,  and  allowed  to  ripen 
for  four  to  six  montjis.  The  cheese  is  6  to  12  inches  in  diameter,  3  to  4\  inches  in' 
height,  and  weighs  from  (i  to  28  pounds.  It  resembles  in  general  characteristics  the 
Brick  cheese  of  the  United  States. 

TOPPEN. 

This  is  a  German  sour-milk  cheese  made  from  skim  milk  and  eaten  while  fresh.  It 
is  put  up  in  small  packages  weighing  about  1  ounce, 

TRAPPIST. 

This  cheese  originated  with  the  Trappists  in  1885  in  the  monastery  of  Mariastern, 
near  Banjaluka,  in  Bosnia.  The  fresh  milk  is  heated  to  about  85°  F.  and  rennet  is 
added.  After  one  to  one  and  one-half  hours  the  curd,  without  being  cut  or  stirred, 
is  put  into  hoops  and  pressed,  after  which  it  is  salted  and  ripened.  The  growth  of 
mold  is  entirely  prevented  by  frequent  washing  and  thus  the  cheese  ripens  uniformly 
throughout.  The  ripening  period  of  the  smaller  cheeses  is  five  to  six  weeks  in  summer, 
but  the  cheese  is  usually  shipped  at  the  end  of  four  to  five  weeks.  The  cheese  is  pale 
yellow  in  color  and  has  a  remarkably  mild  taste.  Although  this  cheese  is  to  be  classed 
among  the  soft  varieties,  the  water  content  is  often  below  45  per  cent.  The  ripening 
is  also  more  characteristic  of  the' hard  cheeses.  The  smallest  size  of  the  cheese  made 
in  the  monastery  referred  to  has  a  diameter  of  6  inches,  a  height  of  2  inches,  and  weighs 
2  to  3  pounds.  A  larger  size  measures  9  inches  in  diameter,  2\  inches  in  height,  and 
weighs  about  10  pounds.  There  is  also  a  still  larger  size.  The  cheese  is  exported  to  a 
large  extent  to  Austria  and  Hungary,  the  most  important  centers  of  the  trade  in  these 
regions  being  Gratz  and  Budapest.  It  is,  however,  found  in  all  of  the  large  cities  of 
Austria,  and  the  demand  appears  to  be  constantly  increasing. 

TRAVNIK. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  usually  fiom  whole  sheep's  milk  to  which  a  small 
amount  of  goat's  milk  is  added.  Skimmed  milk,  however,  is  sometimes  used.  It  is 
also  known  as  Arnauten  and  Vlasic.  This  cheese  originated  in  Albania  in  the  north- 
western part  of  Turkey  in  Europe  and  has  been  made  for  at  least  a  century.  In  the 
country  of  origin  it  was  known  at  first  by  the  name  Arnautski  Sir  or  Arnauten  cheese. 
At  the  present  time  it  is  made  in  Bosnia  and  Herzegovina,  but  principally  in  the  Vlasic 
Plain.     The  center  of  trade  in  this  cheese  is  Travnik  in  Bosnia. 

The  fresh  warm  milk  is  treated  with  sufficient  rennet  to  secure  coagulation  in  one  and 
one-fourth  to  two  hours  and  is  then  allowed  to  stand  for  a  short  time  until  the  coagulum 
contracts  and  the  whey  appears  on  the  surface.  The  curd  is  then  put  into  woolen 
sacks  and  drained  for  seven  to  eight  hours,  when  it  is  pressed  into  flattened  balls  by 
hand.  These  are  dried  for  a  short  time  in  the  open  air  and  then  packed  into  wooden 
receptacles  varying  in  diameter  from  14  to  28  inches,  having  a  height  of  about  24  inches, 
and  holding  from  50  to  130  pounds  of  cheese.  Each  layer  of  cheese  is  salted  and 
pressed  so  that  no  air  spaces  are  left.  When  the  receptacle  is  filled  the  whey  usually 
shows  at  the  surface,  any  excess  being  removed.     Moderate  pressure  is  applied  to  the 


52  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

cover  placed  upon  the  cheese.  When  fresh,  the  cheese  made  from  whole  sheep's  milk 
has  a  soft  consistency,  a  nearly  white  color,  and  a  pleasant,  mild  taste.  The  cheese, 
however,  is  usually  allowed  to  ripen  for  two  weeks  to  several  months.  No  holes  should 
develop  in  the  cheese. 

TROUVILLE. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  same  locality  as  Pont  1'EvSque  and  is  of  the 
same  nature  though  superior  in  quality.  Only  fresh  whole  milk  is  used.  The  tem- 
perature of  setting  with  rennet  is  85°  to  95°  F.  The  growth  of  molds  during  ripening  is 
prevented  by  frequent  washing  with  salt  water. 

TROYES. 

Two  kinds  of  cheese  are  referred  to  by  this  name — one  a  washed  cheese  with  a  yellow 
rind,  known  as  Ervy,  and  the  other  a  cheese  very  closely  resembling  Camembert  and 
known  as  Barberey.     The  industry  is  quite  restricted. 

TWOROG. 

This  is  a  sour-milk  cheese  made  in  Russia.  The  soured  milk  is  kept  in  a  warm  place 
for  twenty-four  hours,  when  the  whey  is  removed  and  the  curd  put  into  wooden  forms 
and  subjected  to  pressure.  This  cheese  is  made  on  a  large  scale  by  farmers  and  is  often 
used  in  making  a  bread  called  "Notruschki." 

URI. 

This  is  a  hard  rennet  cow's-milk  cheese  made  in  the  Canton  of  Uri,  Switzerland.  It 
has  a  diameter  of  8  to  12  inches,  and  is  8  inches  high.     It  weighs  20  to  40  pounds. 

VACHERIN. 

This  name  is  applied  to  two  quite  different  kinds  of  cheese. 

The  form  designated  Vacherin  a  la  Main  is  made  in  Switzerland  and  in  Savoy,  France. 
Whole  cow's  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  temperature  of  about  85°  F.,  and  the  curd  is 
cut  very  fine  and  put  into  hoops  12  inches  in  diameter  and  5  to  6  inches  high.  It  is 
salted  and  ripened.  The  rind  is  firm  and  hard  but  the  interior  is  almost  liquid  in  con- 
sistency. It  is  either  spread  on  bread  or  eaten  with  a  spoon.  A  ripened  cheese  weighs 
from  5  to  10  pounds.  A  cheese  of  this  kind  made  in  the  same  region  is  known  locally  as 
Tome  de  Montagne. 

The  form  designated  Vacherin  Fondu  is  made  in  much  the  same  manner  as  Emmen- 
tal  cheese.     The  ripened  cheese  is  then  melted  and  spices  are  added. 

VENDOME. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Camembert  and  Thenay,  and  is  made  in  the 
region  of  Vendome  in  the  Department  of  Loir-et-Cher,  France. 

The  warm  morning's  milk  is  usually  mixed  with  that  of  the  previous  evening,  which 
secures  ordinarily  a  setting  temperature  of  75°  to  85°  F.,  which  is  desired.  The  period 
of  setting  is  four  to  five  hours  in  summer  and  five  to  six  hours  in  winter.  The  curd  is 
then  broken  up  and  put  into  hoops  about  5  inches  in  diameter  and  4  inches  in  height. 
After  draining  for  twenty-four  hours  the  cheese  is  turned  and  salted,  which  process  is 
twice  repeated  at  intervals  of  twelve  hours.  When  sufficiently  dried  it  is  placed  in  the 
curing  cellar  where  it  is  often  buried  in  ashes.  This  cheese  is  placed  by  some  on  a 
rank  with  Camembert.     The  principal  market  is  Paris. 

VILLIERS. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  made  in  the  Department  of  Haute-Marne,  France.  It  is  a 
square  cheese  weighing  about  1  pound. 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  53 

VOID. 

This  is  a  soft  rennet  cheese  resembling  Pont  l'Eveque  and  Limburg.  It  is  made  in 
the  Department  of  Meuse,  France.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  a  high  temperature, 
the  whey  is  removed  as  rapidly  as  possible,  and  the  cheeses  during  ripening  are  washed 
frequently  with  salt  water. 

VORARLBERG SOUR-MILK. 

This,  as  the  name  indicates,  is  made  from  sour  cow's  milk.  It  is  semicircular  in 
shape  and  varies  in  size.     It  is  essentially  a  hard  cheese. 

The  sweet  milk  is  put  in  a  kettle  and  raised  to  77°  F.,  and  sour  thickened  milk  is 
added  and  the  mixture  stirred  and  heated  to  95°,  at  which  temperature  it  coagulates. 
While  this  is  being  stirred  with  a  curd  scoop  the  temperature  is  raised  to  105°.  The 
curd  is  then  dipped  into  forms,  where  it  is  turned  a  few  times  during  twenty-four 
hours.  Salt  is  nibbed  on  the  surface  and  the  cheese  is  placed  in  a  room  having  a  tem- 
perature of  67°.  The  cheese  is  then  placed  in  a  cask  and  held  for  three  days,  and  salt 
is  sprinkled  over  the  surface  daily.  The  ripening  is  completed  in  a  cellar.  When 
ripe  the  cheese  is  greasy  and  has  a  very  strong  odor  and  flavor. 

WEISSLAK. 

This  is  a  soft  cured  rennet  cheese  made  from  cow's  milk  in  the  Bavarian  Algau,  Ger- 
many. The  cheese  weighs  about  2^  pounds,  and  is  rectangular  in  shape,  A\  by  4  by 
3$  inches. 

WENSLEYDALE. 

This  cheese  derives  its  name  from  the  valley  in  Yorkshire,  England,  in  which  it  is 
made.  It  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  whole  cow's  milk.  It  is  cylindrical  in  shape 
and  weighs  from  5  to  15  pounds. 

In  the  old  method  of  manufacture  the  evening's  milk  is  heated  to  100°  F.,  and  the 
fresh  morning's  milk  is  added.  It  is  set  with  sufficient  rennet  to  coagulate  it  in  thirty- 
five  minutes.  The  breaking  or  cutting  process  requires  thirty-five  minutes,  after 
which  the  curd  is  allowed  to  stand  for  forty-five  minutes  at  90°.  The  whey  is  then 
removed,  and  the  curd  is  put  in  vats  lined  with  cloth  and  light  pressure  is  applied  for 
thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  allowed  to  drain  for  one  hour.  It  is  then 
milled  and  is  pressed  for  twenty-four  hours,  when  it  is  wrapped  in  cloth,  and  finally 
put  in  brine  for  three  days. 

In  the  new  method  of  manufacture  the  evening's  milk  and  the  morning's  milk  are 
mixed  in  a  copper  kettle,  heated  to  95°,  and  enough  rennet  is  added  to  coagulate  it  in 
forty-five  minutes.  The  curd  is  then  broken  up  by  hand  or  with  a  breaker.  The 
whey  is  removed  and  the  curd  dipped  into  tin  hoops  where  it  drains  for  three  hours. 
It  is  then  turned  and  drained  for  another  three  hours.  After  pressing  for  twenty-four 
hours,  the  cheese  is  salted  by  immersion  in  brine  for  three  days. 

WEST   FRIESIAN. 

This  is  a  rennet  cheese  made  from  skimmed  cow's  milk.  The  milk  is  set  in  a  copper 
kettle,  one  hour  being  allowed  for  coagulation.  The  curd  is  broken  up  and  placed  in 
a  wooden  tub,  where  it  is  kneaded.  The  curd  is  allowed  to  stand  for  several  hours  and 
then  salted.  It  is  pressed  for  three  hours,  washed  in  hot  water,  wrapped  in  a  fine 
cloth,  and  again  pressed  for  twelve  hours.     The  cheese  is  eaten  when  one  week  old. 

WESTPHALIA  SOUR-MILK. 

This  is  a  hand  cheese  made  in  Westphalia.  Sour  milk  is  stirred  and  heated  to  100° 
F.,  and  placed  in  a  sack  and  the  whey  pressed  out.  The  curd  is  then  kneaded  by 
hand  and  salted,  butter  and  caraway  seed  or  pepper  being  added.  It  is  then  molded 
by  hand,  dried  for  a  few  hours,  and  ripened  in  a  cellar. 


54  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

WHITE. 

Fromage  Blanc,  or  White  cheese,  is  a  skim-milk  cheese  made  in  France  during  the 
summer  months.  The  milk  is  set  with  rennet  at  about  75°  F.  The  curd  is  usually 
molded  into  cylindrical  forms.  The  cheese  is  consumed  while  fresh  and  may  or  may 
not  be  salted 

WITHANIA. 

This  is  so  called  because  made  with  rennet  manufactured  from  withania  berries. 
Cheese  made  with  the  rennet  of  these  berries  is  said  to  have  an  agreeable  flavor  if 
ripened  to  the  right  degree,  but  it  develops  an  acrid  flavor  with  age.  The  texture  is 
not  so  good  as  with  animal  rennet.  This  form  of  rennet  is  recommended  for  use  in 
India,  where  the  religion  and  prejudice  of  the  people  make  the  use  of  animal  rennet 
impractical. 

ZIEGEL. 

This  is  a  cheese  made  in  Austria  either  from  whole  cow's  milk  or  from  whole  milk 
to  which  15  per  cent  of  cream  has  been  added.  The  cheese  measures  3  by  2  by  2\ 
inches,  and  weighs  about  one-half  pound. 

In  making  the  whole-milk  cheese  the  milk  is  warmed  to  95°  F.  and  sufficient  rennet 
is  added  to  coagulate  it  in  thirty  minutes.  The  curd  is  broken  up  with  a  harp  and  cut 
loose  from  the  bottom  of  the  vessel,  after  which  it  is  allowed  to  remain  undisturbed 
for  thirty  minutes.  At  the  end  of  this  time  the  curd,  which  is  again  matted  together, 
is  cut  into  pieces  and  stirred  gently  for  a  considerable  time,  after  which  it  is  allowed 
to  stand  again  for  fifteen  minutes.  The  collected  whey  is  then  dipped  off  and  the 
curd  is  dipped  into  forms  which  are  24  inches  long,  5  inches  high,  and  hold  the  curd 
of  7j  to  8  gallons  of  milk.  Before  the  form  is  filled  a  cheese  cloth  is  placed  in  it  which 
helps  in  turning  the  curd.  The  curd  remains  in  the  form  twenty-four  hours  to  drain 
and  is  then  cut  into  measured  sizes  and  placed  in  another  form,  where  it  is  allowed  to 
remain  for  eight  days,  the  curd  being  turned  and  the  board  on  which  the  form  rests 
being  changed  daily.  Salt  is  then  sprinkled  on  the  cheese  and  for  one  month  it  is 
washed  in  salt  water  and  rubbed  with  the  hands  every  day.  It  is  ready  for  market 
in  eight  weeks  from  the  time  of  making. 

ZIGER. 

This  is  a  cheese  made  from  the  whey  obtained  in  the  manufacture  of  other  cheese. 
It  consists  principally  of  albumin,  but  where  no  effort  is  made  to  separate  the  fat 
from  the  whey  the  product  may  contain  a  relatively  high  proportion  of  fat.  It  is  a 
cheap  food  product  made  in  all  the  countries  of  Central  Europe.  Among  the  many 
names  applied  to  it  are  Albumin  cheese,  Recuit,  Ricotta,  Broccio,  Brocotte,  Serac, 
and  Ceracee. 

In  the  manufacture  of  this  product  an  effort  is  sometimes  made  to  remove  the  fat 
remaining  in  the  whey,  but  in  most  cases  the  fat  is  allowed  to  remain.  'Where  it  is 
desired  to  skim  the  whey  a  small  portion  of  very  sour  whey,  previously  prepared,  is 
added  to  the  sweet  whey  and  the  whole  is  heated  to  160°  to  175°  F.  for  a  few  minutes, 
when  the  fat  collects  on  the  surface  and  can  be  skimmed  off.  Following  this  a  greater 
portion  of  sour  whey  is  added  and  the  whey  is  then  heated  nearly  to  the  boiling  point, 
when  the  albumin  is  precipitated  in  a  Socculent  condition  and  rises  to  the  surface  of 
the  whey.  When  the  whey  is  not  in  normal  condition  the  albumin  may  be  precipi- 
tated in  a  powdery  mass.  This  is  often  prevented  by  adding  3  to  5  per  cent  of  butter- 
milk to  the  whey  before  the  last  heating.  The  casein  of  the  buttermilk  is  precipitated, 
the  albumin  being  carried  with  it.  It  is  considered  that  this  addition  of  casein  injures 
the  product.  The  albumin  when  skimmed  from  the  whey  is  salted  and  packed  in  a 
vessel  and  may  be  covered  with  whey. 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE.  55 

A  so-called  formed  Ziger  cheese  is  made  by  molding  the  half-dried  albumin  into 
squares  which  may  be  still  further  dried.  Some  of  these  have  local  names,  such  as 
the  Hudelzigcr  made  in  the  Canton  of  Glarus,  Switzerland. 

In  Vorarlberg  the  albumin  is  skimmed  from  the  whey,  allowed  to  cool,  placed  in 
cheese  cloth,  and  subjected  to  increasing  pressure  in  an  Emmental  cheese  press. 
After  twenty-four  hours  the  cheese  is  put  into  a  salt  bath  to  which  sweet  cider  and 
vinegar  are  sometimes  added. 

A  mixture  of  Ziger  and  cream  prepared  in  the  Savoy  is  known  as  Gruau  de  Montagne. 
An  albumin  cheese  made  from  the  whey  of  goat's-milk  cheese  in  the  Canton  of  Grau- 
biinden,  Switzerland,  is  known  as  Mascarponi. 


ANALYSES   OF   CHEESE. 


Variety. 


Alemtejo. . 

Backstein . . 

Battelmatt 

Bellelay.. . 

Bondon 

Brick 

Brie 


Brie- 
American 

Brinsen 

Burgundy . . . 
Caciocavallo . 

Caerphilly . . . 
Cambridge. . . 
Camembert.. 


Cantal . 


Authority." 


Number  of 
analyses. 


Water.    Fat. 


Hoffman 

Pereira 

Fleisehmann. 
Lindt 


{Average. . 
Maximum 
Minimum. 


Eugling 

Benecke 

Lindt 

Chattaway . 

Lindet 

Weems 

Balland 

Blyth 

Duclaux 


(Average. . . 

7^  Maximum. 

[Minimum. . 


von  Klenze. 
Lindet 

Payen 


I  Average. . . 
S-JMaximum. 

(Minimum. . 

1 

1 


Arnold 1. 

Johnson 1. 

Maior 2. 


Melikoff 3. 


Balland 1. 

Sartori 2. 


{Average. . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum.. 

Chattaway 1 

Chattaway 1 

Arnold . . .' 1 

Balland 1 

Chattaway 2 

Duclaux 1 


Kriiger 1 . 

Lindet l 

Macoir 1. 

Muter 1. 

Payen 1. 

Rollet 1. 

Stutzer 1. 


Balland 3. 


Duclaux . 


Lindet 

Patrick  (2) . 


(Average... 
Maximum . 
Minimum.. 
1 


Per  ct. 
30. 22 
41.11 
48.39 
32.97 
73. 12 
61.04 
45.24 
35.80 
47.71 
50.53 
44.24 
39.62 
37.59 
39.50 
54.30 
38.69 
48. 80 
43.90 
51.90 
50.04 
53.84 
46.06 
55.69 
53.50 
.53. 99 
45.25 


1. 


Pro- 

teids, 

amids: 

etc. 


J53! 
\45. 

41. 

til). 
f49. 
37. 
43. 


Perct. 
38.25 
27.49 
31.59 
25.27 
2.76 
6.80 
28.16 
37.40 
24.08 
29.42 
20.52 
30.10 
30.05 
24.40 
23.00 
28.86 
22.45 
28.93 
24.80 
27.50 
29.50 
24.60 
21.42 
22.50 
24.83 
25.73 

36.15 
20.96 
22.30 
32.60 
27.70 
27.00 
26.20 
38.55 
36.71 
35.90 
25.49 
30.09 
19.00 
30.40 
47.10 
20.  5.5 
21.65 
21.90 
22.60 
30.31 
17.24 
22.00 
25.54 
21.35 
21.05 
23.  71 
27.30 
34.10 
28.30 
26.90 
25.70 
31.10 
22.50 
29.30 
28.14 


Per  ct. 
20.87 
21.45 
24.33 
17.77 
19.84 
23.85 
23.14 
24.44 
22.99 
24.48 
21.22 
25. 70 
28.88 
9.40 
16.10 
23.80 
19.94 
19.04 
18.10 
18.34 
19.94 
17.16 
17.29 
18.00 
14.94 
18.48 

17.63 

15.94 
23.10 
25.20 
19.60 
14.30 
14.40 
28.84 
37.83 
36.06 
29.25 
35.09 
22.16 
37.20 
24.60 
25.49 
18.72 
21.80 
24.40 
19.75 
17.13 
17.10 
18.76 
21.07 
18.90 
19.12 
18.66 
28.38 
24  98 
24.22 
22.55 
24. 10 
21.50 
20.50 
28.84 


Milk 

sugar, 
lactic 
acid, 

Total 

ash. 

etc. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

3.06 

7.60 

4.66 

6.07 

5.24 

6.40 

3.82 

5.87 

2.17 

2.11 

3.48 

4.83 

3.46 

2.36 

2.35 

2.87 

3.35 

3.14 

2.25 

2.71 

4.72 

3.48 

.70 

5.00 

4.20 

4.85 

3.96 

6.63 

1.50 

5.00 

4.12 

4.37 

3.57 

5.60 

4.00 

5.63 

4.93 

5.61 

4.70 

1.37 

1.53 

1.00 

4.40 

2.70 

5.80 

1.20 

7.30 

1.80 

6.80 

1.30 

6.00 

1.65 

1.46 

5.60 

5.80 

7.63 

10.50 

5.79 

3.40 

4.40 

3.52 

5.95 

4.68 

4.70 

3.80 

4.70 

4.70 

1.56 

4.40 

5.83 

3.46 

4.40 

4.71 

4.19 

3.14 

4.46 

4.56 

7.22 

4.40 

5.93 

3.95 

6.47 

7.50 

4.30 

4.80 

4.50 

56 


a  See  Sources  of  analytical  data  for  details. 


VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 


57 


Analyses  of  cheese — Continued . 


Pro- 

Milk 

Variety. 

Authority 

Niimlipr  of 
analyses. 

Water. 

Fat. 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 

lactic 
acid, 
etc. 

Total 
ash. 

Salt  in 
ash. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Cheddar— 

(Average 

34.04 

35.56 

26.87 

3.40 

American 

Caldwell 

8<  Maximum . . 

38.50 

41.03 

28,  L5 

4.05 

(Minimum. . 

28.11 

31.19 

2.',.. -.7 

2.71 

(Average 

24. 93 

32. 62 

38. 01 

4.42 

(  794  Maximum  .  . 

40.  04 

52. 63 

55. 27 

8.86 

| Minimum. . . 

3.55 

23. 20 

27.67 

2.41 

Clark 

(Average. . . . 

31.07 

27.72 

34. 62 

3.54 



SOlMaviraura. . 

38. 10 

36. 94 

41.47 

4.22 

(Minimum... 

26. 64 

19. 58 

28.73 

2.59 

13  Average 

41.15 
(35.38 
{37.56 
[34.-62 

15.39 

32.  50 

40.10 
23. 91 



3.33 

3.73 



Cooke 

3 

27.  70 

25. 58 

3.96 

37. 52 

20. 19 

3.71 

Drew 

2(11  Average 

(Average 

(x Maximum. . 

31.05 
40. 32 

35. 54 

26. 05 

33.41 
29.89 

3.74 

Goessmann 

4.r,.  41      37.32 

34.04 

5.14 

[Minimum... 

35.83      15.77 

22.13 

2.35 

I  \  ve.rage . . . 

33.0ft     38.78 

21.93 

1.99 

4.09 

Patrick-  (1) 

15"   Maximum  . 

38.  36      40.  56 

31.76 

2. 34 

4.73 

1  Minimum. . 

26. 48      24.  77 

15.38 

1.65 

2.  43 

Snyder 

50*  Average 

32. 71      35. 25 
37.14     34.65 

26. 81 

23. 64 

r4.5" 

(Average. .. 
1. ')('«'•[ Maximum  . 

36.84     33.83 

23.  72 

c.5.61 

13  89      36.70 

26.11 

7.02 

I  Minimum. . 

32.69     30.00 

20.80 

3. 12 

Van  Rlvke 

(Average. . . 

36.06     34.43 

24.  45 

.61 

3.61 

(WMaxhmim  . 

41.15  i  45.36 

28.72 

.76 

5.29 

1  Minimum. . 

32.23'    23.27 

IS    15 

••¥ 

LSI 

(Average. . . 

34.01      36.  SI 

25. 69 

r3.50 

(i'-J Maximum  . 

38. 10      41.  33 

30.  09 

4. 59 

1  Minimum.  ■ 

29.  S5      27.22 

21.53 

2.72 

Yneloker 

4  Average 

32.39      31.44 

20. 57  • 

5.02 

4.57 

1.49 

(Average 

36.42     36.95 

21.15 

1.36 

3.  SI 

\\  allace 

150-j  Maximum  .. 

41.65      46.80 

32. 09 

2.68 

4.01 

(Minimum. . . 

30. 25 

21.77 

14.11 

■  .41 

2. 55 

130. 53 

41.58 

23.38 

2.  V, 

2.06 

Wilson 

3 

{31.70 
[43. 82 

36.18 
5.98 

27.19 
45.04 

1.95 
3.12 

2.98 
2.06 

Cheddar— 

Canadian 

Chat  ta  way 

1    

33.30 
34.07 

30.60 
22. 54 

27.60 
40.02 

3.60 
3.45 

(Average 

Clark 

11< Maximum  ... 

36. 58 

25. 67 

43. 52 

3.93 

iMinimum 

32.28 

20.13 

33.82 

3.14 

(    50  Average 

34. 60 

35.  51 

23.18 

C6.70 

Shuttelworth 

6  Average  ft... 

32.53 

36.06 

23.94 



c7.48 

135  Average  o. . . 

36. 54 

33.81 

23.  06 

<•  5. 69 

135  Averagei... 

33.51 

32.97 

24.94 

c8.58 

Cheddar— 

English -.. 

Blyth 

2  Average 
(Average 

2S.  10 

22.50 

45.  60 

4.10 

35. 00 

29.02 

27.  72 

3.12 

Chattaway 

4{Maximum. . 

37.70 

30.  50 

29.00 

4.30 

[Minimum.. . 

33. 00 

25.60 

26.70 

3.90 

GrifBths 

1 

36.34 

34.36 

22.98 

2.10 

4.22 

Hassall 

1 

30.10 

36.54 

30.15 

3.21 

Jones 

1 

36.  04 

30.40 

28.98 

4.58 

(Average 

35.  52 

30.  33 

30. 04 

4.05 

Lloyd 

31-JMaximum  . . 

37.73 

34.65 

35. 10 

4.60 

[Minimum. . . 

32.85 

24.00 

22.  77 

3.40 

35.16 

30.45 

27.80 

3.16 

3.42 

.70 

Voelcker 

13^  Maximum  . . 

39.  43 

41.58 

32. 37 

6.  SO 

4.  SI 

1.55 

[Minimum. . . 

30.  32 

23.  21 

23.28 

.22 

2.06 

.09 

Von  Klenze 

1 

35.  22 

27.91 

33.47 

3.40 

Cheddar- 

Queensland 

Briinnich 

2 

131.62 

|27.  67 

35.17 
37.35 

24.59 

26.24 

4.09 
4.04 

1.44 

a  The  15  analyses  are  each  the  average  of  5  monthly  analyses.    The  green  cheese  was  analyzed  by 
Wallace. 
*  Green  cheese  made  at  New  York  State  Agricultural  Experiment  Station,  1892. 
<■  Sugar,  ash,  etc. 

d  Green  cheese  made  at  numerous  factories  in  New  York,  1892  and  1893. 
«  Age  of  cheese,  seven  weeks. 
/Age  of  cheese,  five  months. 
e  Green  cheese 
ft  Age  of  cheese,  1  month. 
i  Cured  cheese. 


58 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 


Analyses  of  cheese — Continued. 


Variety. 


Authority. 


Number  of 
analyses. 


Wat  or. 


Fat. 


Pro- 

teids, 

amids. 

etc. 


Milk 

sugar, 

lactic 

acid, 

etc. 


Total 
ash. 


Cheshire. 


Cotherstone. . 

Cniilnmmiers. 


Cream — 
English. 


Cream — 

French  Demi-Sel. 


Crescenza 

Danish  Export 


Derbyshire. 
Dorset 


Dunlop. 
Edam.. 


Edam — American. 


Emmental. 


Engandine 

Formaggini  <li  Locco. 
Gammelost 


Gervais. 


Arnold. . 
Balland. 


Blades. 


Cha1  taway. 

Griffiths 

l.indet 

Fayen 

Voelcker 

Griffiths 

Voelcker 

Balland 

Lindet 


Chattaway. 

llassall 

Payen 


Vieth... 

Balland. 


Lindet . . . 
Duclaux. 


Storch. 


Sheldon.. 
Griffiths. 
Vieth.... 

Jones 

Arnold. . 


Balland. 
Crihb... 


Dahl . 


llassall 

von  Klenze. 

Lindet 

Mayer 

Patrick  (2) . 

Payen 


Ilaeckor. 


Van  Slyke. 


Benecko . 


Fiornig 

von  Klenze. 

Lindt 


....do.... 

Cornalba. 
Voelcker. . 


Balland. 


K6nig 

Riclimond . 
Stutzer 


1 

1 

{Average . . . 
Maximum 
Minimum.. 


[Average. . . 

8  Maximum  . 

[Minimum.. 


1. 


I  Average. . . 
H  Maximum. 

[Minimum.. 

1 

1 

1 

1 


(Average. . . 

•k  Maximum. 

Minimum. . 


3a. 


[Average... 

18  <H  Maximum. 

[Minimum . 

{Average 
Maximum. . 
Minimum... 

1 

1 

{Average 
Maximum. . 
Mininnun. . . 
1 


{Average. . . 
Maximum . 
Minimum. . 
1 

I.""."'.'."'.'. 


Per  cl. 
24.  09 
22.00 
44.59 
52.00 
36. 10 
137.80 
(31.  60 
27.55 
31.10 
(30.  39 
135.  92 
[36.  96 
132.  59 
38.20 
138.  28 
138.  23 
.50.40 
(53.  00 
(57.80 

(57.  60 
|14.00 
30.  34 
9.48 
36.49 
47.94 
27.69 
52.10 

49.00 
56.75 
45.99 
49.88 
38.78 
31.60 
41.44 
41.55 
38.46 

29.  23 
29.56 
37. 90 
38.  .50 
51.06 
60.38 
41.70 
32.57 
33.02 
42.85 

30.  10 
41.88 
42.  60 
33.  20 
32.80 
36.10 
41.41 
48.69 
44.44 
46.80 
47.55 
55.34 
41.  25 
37.  77 
47.54 
30.49 
33.  53 
35.18 
33.00 
37.44 
24.17 
47.30 
[01.00 
ll6.  60 

42.44 
51.58 
58.00 
44.70 
52.94 
33.80 
44.84 


Per  a. 

37.  OS 
39.50 
21.55 
30.07 
9.85 
31.30 
35.30 
36.00 
32.  30 
25.48 
20.  34 

29.  34 
32.  51 

30.  25 
30.89 
29.12 

20.  45 

21.  50 
25.00 

39.30 
08.10 
67.  32 
59.  s.s 
56.08 
66.80 
43.76 
25.20 

34.00 
21.34 
13.41 
23.70 

9.34 
35.20 
27.56 

8.70 
31.80 
28.71 
27.43 
25.90 
24.29 
11.85 
24.40 

3.83 
32.  19 
33.99 
20.73 
27.57 
24.05 
20.00 
28.00 
29.58 
27.54 
25.06 
23.21 
25.  37 
23.30 
24  42 

31.  75 
19.73 
23. 92 
34.70 

5.75 
30.29 
27.99 
30.50 
33.37 
28.54 
11.40 
19.20 
41.  .50 

3.36 
31.98 
40.47 
20.  85 
29.75 
57.79 
30.73 


Per  cl. 
33.  36 
27.10 
29.25 
32.  95 
24.44 
25.70 
20.50 
31.00 
30.90 
34.75 
25.99 
24.08 
26.  00 
23.  82 
23. 93 
24.38 
17.41 
16.90 
13.  00 

19.00 

20.10 
2.02 

18.40 
5.28 
8.77 
2.00 

13.49 

11.80 
18.91 
30.01 
34.00 
27.09 
24.50 
22. 25 
44.09 
25.87 
33.89 
32.31 
27.32 
25.34 
26.82 
31.92 
24.00 
23.98 
23.48 
19.39 
32. 81 
29.47 
23.90 
29.00 
28.41 
29.43 
25.  63 
21.49 
22. 69 
24.24 
22.18 
24.70 
18.95 
30.97 
37.65 
25.51 
29.99 
32. 23 
30.34 
37.51 
30.44 
36.34 
16.37 
35.80 
42.12 
11.30 
19.94 

7.20 
11.80 

7.90 
15.48 


Per  ct. 


6.  80 


2.21 


7.59 
5. 17 
4.53 
3.81 
3.70 
2.70 
4.80 


5.77 
1.27 
2.  .50 
.22 
8^28 


5.10 
5.90 
2.05 
4.38 
4.24 


4.08 
9.07 


6.35 
6.34 
5.15 


2.60 


3.83 
3.79 
2.92 


.31 


9.85 
4.29 
7.09 
2.13 
2.58 


Per  cl. 
4.85 
3.94 
4.61 
5.00 
3.90 
4.20 
4.40 
3.24 
3.70 
4.78 
4.10 

4.  45 
4.31 
3.  92 
3.  211 

5.  51 
0. 94 
5.70 
4.10 

3.  40 
1.20 

.32 
6.47 

.82 
1.48 

.44 

.93 

3.00 

2.90 

3.  03 

4.17 

3  33 

4.24 

4.51 

5.00 

3.81 

8.14 

8.49 

4,i 

2.S 

0.04 

7.33 

5.54 

4.67 

2  42 

5.62 

6.84 

4.60 

5.  50 

6.  60 
5.  55 
0.93 
0.21 
3.02 
2.59 
3.68 

6  5.80 
9.46 
2.51 
6.8S 
11.09 
'  4.60 
5.88 
4.60 
4.17 
4.95 
3.38 
4.96 
3.43 
6.10 
2.22 

.60 
1.42 

.25 
2.93 

.50 
2.95 


a  Green  cheese. 


b  Sugar,  ash,  etc. 


VARIETIES   OF    CHEESE. 


59 


Analyses  of  cheese — ( 'onl  inued. 


Variety. 


Gcx 

Gislev 

Gloucester. 


Goat-milk—  French 

Goat-milk— Norwegian 
Gorgonzola 


Authority. 


Gouda. 


Gouda — American . 
Gruyere 


Harz  Hand. 


Herv^. 
Una... 


Incanestnitn. 


Kajmak. 


Kaseaval 

Katschkawalj . 
Krutt 


Balland 

Boggild 

Bell 

Blytn 

Chat ta way. . 

Gri  fliths 

Hassall 

Jones 


Number  of 
analyses. 


Water. 


Voelckor. 


Balland 

Lindet 

Patrick  (2).. 

Werenskiold. 


I  Average. . . 
13-  Maximum . 

|Minimum. . 

1 

1 

1 


Bell 

Chattaway. 


| Average. . . 
S  Maximum  . 

(Minimum. 
1 


Hiu  l.iux 2. 

1. 
1. 
1. 


Hornig 

von  Iuenze. 
Lindet 


Maggiora. 


Musso. 


Soxhlet. 
Arnold. 


Cribh. 


rl 


Average. . . 
Maximum . 

Minimum. . 


Mayer 

Patrick  (2) . 
Vieth 


Haecker. . . 


Balland. 


Beiiecke 

Chattaway. 
Duclaux  — 
Lindet 

Lindt 


1 

1 

| Average. . . 
11   Maximum  . 

[Minimum. . 

1 

1 

1 

3  b 

{Average.. . 
Maximum . 
Minimum. 
1 


Per  ct. 
31.50 

32.  10 
4(1.  22 
35.  75 
21.40 
|33. 10 
137.10 
34. 10 
32.  52 

35.  xl 
34.80 

Ki  ss 

28.  10 
20.  80 
01.  80 
17.  73 

20.  00 
26.  53 
15.53 
31.85 

140.30 
|33.  90 
(42.80 
(38. 69 

36.  72 
26.81 
41.50 

34.  41 
32.  43 

37.  63 
37.30 
47.  10 

29.  82 
43.  56 

21.  90 
54.79 
60.17 
50.46 
38.80 

35.  23 


Pro-     Milk 

teids      SU£"r 

Fftt  -SS&  SB8 

etc. 


etc. 


Pa yen. 
Vieth.. 


Vieth. 


Balland. . . 
Hoffmann . 
Pereira 


Spica . 


Zega. 


Maior... 

Zega.... 
Leutner. 


(Average. . 

14<  Maximum 

(Minimum. 

{ Average . . 
Maximum 
Minimum. 


16  Average. 


42.  58 
46.  03 
46.52 
40.  59 
29.99 
33. 10 
27.50 
40.61 
(28.20 
135.  70 
36.  00 


35.70 

34.  57 

35.  74 
40.00 
32.  05 
55.  79 

(50.  19 
\S2.  49 
|52.  75 
37.  50 
28.39 
36.89 


29.  07 

32.  48 

26.  02 

31.  55 

36.  03 

23.97 

I.-.O.  5(1 

■  ■  '(39.  10 

..    35.25 

8.59 


\10.14 


Per  ct. 

■IS  85 

32  20 

■l  96 

28.  35 

25.  40 
23.  .50 
28.  10 
37.92 
29.94 
21.97 

28.  02 

33.  68 
22.  70 
25.90 

9.20 
46.64 
19.86 
32.68 

10.98 
27.  ss 

26.  10 

26.  711 

29.  70 

34.  07 

33.  69 

35.  29 
29.  00 
37.  52 
34.08 
36.19 

34.  67 
39.  32 
29.00 

27.  95 
24.81 

9.  02 
IS.  37 

1.64 
31.  20 
29.40 
16.18 

31.  13 
29.  04 
28.29 
28.19 
33.40 
23.  10 
26.59 

28.  60 
31.80 
29.29 
28. 00 

29.  12 

30.  64 
24.00 
28.40 

1.34 
1.64 
1.83 
1.11 
23.  93 

32.  00 
27. 15 
24.74 
37.48 
15.88 
55.  79 
63.  82 
50.  16 
14.10 
25.  50 
31.24 

1.31 
1.45 


Per  ct. 
29  '.'i' 
29.  mi 
41.53 
31.10 
48.  10 
31.80 
28  30 
21.68 
31.70 
37.96 
27.  96 
31.  75 

24.  50 

33.  60 
17.10 

27.  90 
7.62 

10.  63 
4.43 

34.  34 
27.70 
25. 80 
23.14 
22.78 
25.67 
33. 80 
19.70 
26.75 
25. 94 
26. 94 
25. 16 

28.  51 
20.  33 
24.17 
46.95 

25.  94 
34.22 
22.05 
24.  40 
27.  01 
37.  43 
18.01 
19.25 
19.64 
33.  03 
37.  80 

29.  54 
26. 18 
31.30 
28.70 
30.84 
28.90 

32.  51 
29.95 
31.50 

33.  75 
37.  01 
27.  72 
22.43 
19.  38 
20.86 

30.  62 
24.30 
30.09 
38.06 
25. 16 

6.25 
8.73 
4.94 
28.10 
28.00 
24.25 
78.  68 
69.  74 


Per  el. 

5.51 
.34 


Total    Salt  in 
ash.   ,   ash. 


Perct.  Perct. 

4.18 

5.50  I 


.31 


1.98 


4.37 

7.44 

1.22 

15. 30 


46.81 

58.07 

39.  04 

1.35 


.21 


1.62 

2.00 

.91 


3.04 
3.18 
3.40 
4.82 
7.40 
1.50 
1.94 


1.50 


"14.80 

"18. 00 

"21.  40 

7.71 

2.85 

7.71 


2.01 
3.20 

.42 
2. 50 
1.40 
2.84 
1.93 

.81 


4.49 
4.10 
5.  oo 

4.  60 
4.32 

5.  84 
4.25 

4.  53 

5.  70 
3.56 
4.40 
5.80 
4  74 
6.06 

6.  57 
5.14 
4.58 
5.30 
4.60 
4. 36 
4.46 
3.71 
4.10 
4.80 
4.08 

fl  6.  77 
nlO.  46 
3.82 
4.63 
3.13 
4. 32 
6.32 
5.  52 
7.30 
4.26 
5.60 
5.41 
3.81 
2.55 
2.88 
3.12 
3.96 
4.70 
3.50 
4.68 
4.70 
3.70 
3.87 
3.50 
3.80 
3.67 
3.00 
4.79 
5.86 

5.  65 
5. 25 
5.36 

10.00 
6.14 
3.95 
9.46 

12.70 
4.58 
4.50 
8.38 
2.61 
4.80 

6.  00 
6.42 
9.46 

17.84 


1.34 

2.04 
.85 

4.  90 

2.11 

2.  21 

2.64 

2.60 
1.33 

.99 
.92 

2.80 

3.68 

2. 10 

.57 
.40 

*  4.  io 

"4."i2 

4.08 

'""  1.1.6 

1.50 

5.04 
8.12 
.78 
3.07 
7.36 
1.10 

3.95 

8.01 
13.34 

a  Abnormally  high    ash  content  was  due  to  a  gypsum  preparation  with  which   the  cheese  was 
coated. 
b  Green  cheese. 
"  Caraway  seed. 


60 


VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 


Analyses  of  cheese — Continued. 


Pro- 

Milk 

Variety. 

Authority. 

X umber  of 

analyses. 

Water. 

Fat. 

teids, 

amids, 

etc. 

lactic 
acid, 
etc. 

Total 
ash. 

Salt  in 
ash. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Perct. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Per  ct. 

Laguiole 

Balland 

1 

34. 50 

25.20 

28  70 

6  15 

5  45 

Leicestershire 

Griffiths 

Voelcker 

1 

34.77 
(35.  21 
132.89 

28.00 
27.28 

27  Ml 
27.93 

5.21 
5.  54 

4.16 
4.04 

2 

1.03 

29.  28 

29.06 

4.42 

4.  35 

1.21 

1 

46  90 

11  00 

35  oo 

1  00 

5  '  0 

1.40 

[Average 

35.64 

29.82 

28.  .53 

5.98 

Limburg — American. . . 

Arnold 

4jMaximum  .. . 

48.60 

34.  OS 

35.  05 

6.69 

iMiniiimm 

23.26 

21.29 

23.  58 

4.  B2 

Johnson 

Balland 

Lindet 

1 

42. 12 
33.  SO 

52.  20 
53. 74 

29.  40 

21.95 
15.00 

23. 00 
31.76 
25.90 

37  33 

.38 
8.05 

5.10 

4.44 
4.40 
3  38 

3  51 

Livarot 

1 

1. 

2  90 

1 

Maroilles 

Lindet 

Payen 

1 

40.30 
40.07 

33.  50 

28.  73 

20.20 
23. 31 

4.50 
5.93 

3  30 

1 

Fascetti 

2 

(45.88 
(43.38 

45.  30 

49.  50 

(-.14 
7.  62 

.68 
.50 

Mont-d'Or 

Balland 

1 

,  43.  20 

23.  97 

20. 10 

8.84 

3. 89 

Lindet 

9.70 

25.  30 

4.30 

1.90 

Balland 

2 

(45.  40 
[37.50 

25  90 
29.  83 

16.86 

18. 17 

6.?8 

9.  75 

196 

4.  75 

Lindet 

24.  40 

15.50 

5.  00 

3. 70 

[Average 

23.  57 

16.26 

s.  ss 

41.-4 

176 

Dahl 

26  40 

ii  98 

10  78 

53  03 

6  09 

(Minimum 

IS.  J8 

'i  i  3 

6.79 

30  75 

Voelcker 

l 

24.21 

20.80 

9. 06 

41.01 

192 

(A v<  rage 

29.43 

4.08 

7.  66 

53.  24 

5.  75 

\\  erenstiold 

22JMaximum  ... 

38.01 

10.  54 

9.19 

61.33 

6.38 

iMinimum 

24.  37 

.117 

6.34 

46.  00 

5.06 

Balland 

2 

/.50.80 
1.54.80 

25. 15 

17.60 

5. 12 
5.98 

1.33 
4.20 

20.59     1 

Blvth 

1 

37.90 

41.30     23.10 

3.40 

von  Klenze 

23.99      20.73 

3.56 

Martin 

(56.08 
\57.83 

23.34 

16.67 

1.42 

2.49 

1.44 

21.00 

17.00 

1 .  32 

2.85 

1.90 

Pa von 

134.47 
136.58 

41.91 

13.03 

6.96 

3.63 

40.71 

14.18 

9.02 

.51 

Neufchatel— American. 

Arnold 

34.60 

24.04 

3.90 

Johnson 

1 

57.25 

22.30     15.03 

2.94 

2.48 

1.42 

(48.51 

6.13     32.72 

8.59 

3.79 

Xbgelost 

Dahl 

3 

■47.12 

7.36     31.63 

10.36 

3.41 

140.. 54 

16.87     31.29 

7.90 

3.17 

(43.87 

15.89  :  29.93 

6.47 

4.84 

Voelcker 

3 

•U5. 39 

9.97      33.12 

6.39 

5.13 

142.44 

3.36     42.12 

9.85 

2.22 

Olivet 

Balland 

1 

28.40 

48.16      13.98 

5.16 

4.30 

Olmiitz 

Hornig 

Soxhlet 

1 

44.54 

3.37      41  04 

.16 

10.89 

7.70     as.  02 

1.79 

Parmesan 

Arnold 

1 

23.01 

12.49      55.85 

8.14 

Chattaway 

1 

32.50 

17.10      43.60 

6.20 

Duclaux 

2 

(30.09 
132.. 56 

26.04      38.42 
21.75      42.27 

5.  45 
5.07 

1.76 
1.65 

Lindet 

1 

34.00 

23.00     35.00 

5.20 

1.70 

[Average 

32.16 

19.13 

43.54 

6.29 

Manet  li 

w  Maximum  .. . 

3li.ll 

23.42 

48.93 

7.18 

Minimum 

30.20 

12.58 

38.33 

5.20 

Patrick  (2) 

1 

35.39 

19.72 

35.55 

4.82 

Pa yen 

0 

(27.56 
130.31 

15.95 
21.68 

44.0S 
34.25 

6.69 

5.72 
7.09 

Soxhlet 

1 

[Average 

34.57 
29.  SO 

24.05 

30.51 

35.15 

33.51 

6.23 
6.24 

4.''.'. 

4{  Maximum  ..  - 

I  Minimum 

32.90 
27.47 

31.30 
29.96 

35.59 
30. 74 

6.84 
5.31 

4.34 

1 

2 

54.60 
(  3.59 
\  5.20 

35.00 
54.56 
46.46 

7.30 
36.60 
43.28 

.60 
5.25 
5.06 

.10 

Clark... 

[Average. .  . . 

24.07 

38.12 

29.35 

2.49 

5.69 

2.24 

Johnson 

4<Maximum  .. . 

30.95 

45.20 

34.45 

2.75 

6.18 

2.61 

(Minimum 

11.62 

33.26 

27.00 

2.16 

5.10 

1.86 

Pont-1'Evequc 

Arnold 

1 

44.57 
46.40 

21.  SO 
25.00 

30.36 
20.32 

6.68 

3.97 
1.60 

Balland 

1 

Lindet 

1 

51.00 

23.10 

17.80 

4.00 

1.90 

Pont-1'Eveque— 

1 

26.02 
27.70 
(47.51 
148.02 

50.80 
35.10 
25.93 

20.64 
31.16 
22.56 

2.04 

2.54 
4.00 
4.00 

Port  du  Salut 

Balland 

1 

2 

1.90 

24.00 

24.29 

3.69 

1.56 

Lindet 

1 

38.10 

24.50 

24.80 

5.30 

2.20 

Rollet 

1 

46.46 

26.31 

23.66 

3.67 

1.31 

VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 


61 


Analyst  s  of  cheese—  Continued. 


Swiss — Swedish . 
Tesscl. 


Mayer 


a  From  cow's  milk. 


b  From  sheep's  milk. 


c  Green  cheese. 


62 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 


Analyses  of  cheese — Continued. 


Variety. 


Thenay.. 
Topfen 

Trappist. 
Troves.  . . 
Vacherin. 

Yendome. 
Viterbo. . 
Vorarlber 


Warwickshire 

Wenslc".  dale. 
Wiltshire 


Authority. 


Fallot. 


Sartori. 


Eugling. 


von  Klenze. 


Voelcker. 


Ziger. 


Eugling. 
von  Klenze. 


Number  of 
analyses. 


Blin 

Konig 

Rubner 

Adametz 

Lindet 

Benecke 

Lindt 


{Average 
Maximum . . . 
Minimum 

1 


[Average 

9<  Maximum 


Water.    Fat. 


Perct. 
30.14 
72.44 
CO.  27 
45.90 
58.70 
54.02 
45.87 
48. 1)9 
56.33 
29.  63 
28.50 
42.99 
56.85 


[Minimum 32.92 

(56.  61 

\50.  58 


31.97 
33  61 
33.  .53 

28.30 
37.  23 
36.  34 
34.44 
39.  22 
40.07 
68.51 
74.74 
68.47 
31.00 


Pro-      Milk 

u'Ui*-    Sc    Total 
amids,  ^  ;  .'      ash. 
Pt„        aim, 
etc. 


Per  ct. 
15.00 
6.22 
7.33 
26.10 
18.60 
23.74 
27.21 
•20.90 
30.  61 
10.80 

30.  93 
17.  (12 

31.  99 
2.82 
4.48 
4.56 

29.  08 

30.04 

30.89 

33.30 

27.82 

28.00 

28.71 

19.  26 

25.55 

3.15 

4.33 

5.22 

3.48 


Per  ct. 
18.12 
16.91 
24.84 
23.  30 
14.  (SO 
18.98 
25.29 
27.97 
45.52 
17.74 
34.19 
31.19 
40.11 
25.65 
36.42 
42.37 

27.  43 
29.70 

28.  19 
27.20 
26.52 
31.12 
29.00 
34.  22 
26.81 
22. 13 
14.99 
18.  72 
64.62 


Per  ct. 


3.07 
3.54 


2.04 


3.79 
7.21 
1.81 


7.16 
1.95 
2.S4 


3.S8 


3.60 
2.28 
2.24 
3.97 
3.93 
3.97 


Per  ct. 
6.10 
1.36 
4.02 
4.00 
4.80 
3.08 
1.63 
4.43 
5.58 
3.10 
6.38 
4.94 
6.89 
3.79 
2.49 
2.49 
4.36 
5.60 
4.55 
3.  70 
4.55 
4.41 
4. 25 
5.02 
5.33 
2.31 
2.02 
3.62 
.90 


Salt  in 
ash. 


Perct. 
4.80 


3.70 
1.77 

2.79 
3.68 
2.08 
5.03 

.72 
2.78 
1.12 

1.03 
.60 

1.41 

SOURCES   OF  ANALYTICAL  DATA." 

1.  Adametz,  L. 

Ueber  die  heretellung  und  zusammensetzung  des  bosnischen  trappistenkases. 
Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  21,  no.  19,  p.  310-313.     Bremen,  May  7,  1892. 

2.  Arnold,  L.  P>. 

Cheese  and  cheese  making.  Am.  dairymen's  assn.,  14th  ann.  rept.,  for  the 
year  ending  Jan.  15,  1879.     Utica,  N.  V..   L879.     See]).   115. 

Transl.  abst.  Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  8,  no.  32,  p.  468  170,  Aug.  6;  no.  33,  p.  484, 
Aug.  13;  no.  34,  p.  500-501'.  Aug.  20.     Bremen,  187!).     See  p.  502. 

3.  Balland,  A. 

Les  aliments.     Paris,  l <J07 .     See  v.  2,  p.  237-248. 

4.  Bell,  James. 

The  analysis  and  adulteration  of  foods.  2  parts,  illus.  20ein.  Lond.,  1881. 
See  also  citations  15,  49,  53,  54. 

5.  Benecke,  F.,  and  Schulze,  E. 

Untersuchungen  iiber  den  Emmenthaler  kase  und  iiber  einige  andere  schwei- 
zerische  kasesorten.  Landw.  jahrb.,bd.  16,  p.  317-400.  Berl.,1887.  See 
p.  338,  373. 

6.  Blades,  Charles  M. 

Cheshire  cheese.     Analyst,  v.   19,  p.  131-133.     Lond.,  June,   1894. 

7.  Blin,  Henri. 

L'industrie  fromagere  en  Loir-et-Cher.  Le  fromage  de  Thenay.  Jrn.  d'agr. 
prat.,  ami.  61,  t.  2,  no.  49,  p.  870-879.     Paris.  Dec.  9,  1897. 

8.  Blyth,  Alexander  Wynter,  and  Blytii,  Meredith  Wynter. 

Foods;  their  composition  and  analysis.     5th  ed.     Lond.,  1903.     See  p.  30G. 

9.  Boggild,  B. 

Fine  analyse  der  Gislev-kase.     Ugeskriit  for.landmand,  II.  no.  20.  1890. 
Abst.     Biedermanns  cent.  f.  agr.-chem.,  jahrg.  20,  p.  287.     Leipz.,  1891. 

10.  Brdnnich,  J.  C. 

Analyses  of  cheese  and  butter  manufactured  al  the  Queensland  agricultural 
college,  Gat  ton.  Queensland  agr.  jrn.,  v.  9,  no.  4,  p.  424—428.  Brisbane, 
Oct.,  1901. 

11.  [Buttner,  ('.] 

See  citation  58. 

12.  [Caldwell. 

Alp.  monatsbl.,  p.  158.     1877.]     See  citation  39,  p.  325. 

13.  Chattaway,  Wm.;  Pearmain,  T.  H;  and  Moor,  C.  G. 

On  the  composition  of  cheese.  Analyst,  v.  19,  p.  145-147.  Lond.,  July, 
1894. 

14.  The  composition  of  some  English  cheeses.     Analyst,  v.  20,  no.  231,  p.  132-134. 

Lond.,  June,  1895. 


<»  References  inclosed  in  brackets  have  not  been  consulted  in  the  original. 

63 


64  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

15.  Clark,  R.  D. 

Keport  on  cheese.  X.  Y.  state  dairy  commr.,  3rd  arm.  rept.  for  1880. 
Albany,  1887.     See  p.  50,  62. 

16.  Composition  of  Canadian  cheese.     Ibid.,  5th  ann.  rept.&r  the  y<  ar  1S88.     Albany, 

1889.     See  p.  422. 

17.  Ibid.,  7th  ann.  rept.  for  the  year  1800.     Albany.  1891.     See  p.  300. 

18.  Cooke.  W.  W.,  and  Hills.  J.  L. 

Making  cheese  from  different  qualities  of  milk.  Vermont  agr.  exp.  sta., 
5th  ann.  rept.  [for]  1891.     Burlington,  1892.     See  p.  90. 

19.  (ORXALBA.   G. 

I  formaggini  di  lecco.  L'  indue,  latt.  e  zootec.,  anno  5,  no.  5.  p.  35.  Reggio- 
Emilia.  March  1.  1907. 

20.  I  formaggi  molli  di  lusso.     II  coltivatore,  ann.  53.  no.  49.  p.  713-717.     Casale 

Monferrato,  Dec.  S.  1907. 

21.  Cribb.  Cecil  H. 

Note  on  Dutch  cheese.  Analyst,  v.  31,  no.  361,  p.  105-111.  Lond.,  Apr., 
1906. 

22.  Dahl. 

Ueber  Norwegens  natur,  rindviehhaltung  und  molkereiwirthecbaft.  Milch- 
ztg..  jahrg.  1.  no.  16,  p.  185-191.  May  15;  no.  is.  p.  205-212,  June  15.  Danzig, 
1872.     See  p.  210. 

23.  Drew.  Charles  W. 

Report  upon  cheese.  Minn,  state  dairy  and  food  comm.,  3rd  biennial  rept. 
Minneapolis,  1890.     See  p.  235. 

24.  Duclaux,  Pierre  Emile. 

Lelait.     Ed.  2.     Park.  1894.     See  p.  259-311. 

25.  Euglikg,  W.,  and  Klexze.  von. 

Vereuche  auf  dem  gebiete  der  alpenwirthechaft.     Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  7,  no. 

11.  p.  141-143.  Ma-r.  13:  no.  12.  p.  157-160,  Mar.  20.  1!>7S:  jahrg.  9,  no.  40, 

p.  597-599.  Oct.  6.  1880.     Bremen,  187S-80. 
[Bericht  landw.  versuchsstat.,  Tisigro,  1875-76.     Bregenz,  1887.     p.  12. j 

citation  38,  p.  331. 

26.  [Fallot. 

Prem.  cong.  intern,  hyg.  aliment..  4.  Bee.,  Paris,  1905.  Analyses  made  at 
Lab.,   Loir-et-Cher,  Blois.  France.] 

27.  Fascetti.  G. 

Preparazione  e  compoeizione  del  formaggio  lombardo  alia  crema  denominato 
"Mascarpone."  Ann.  <1.  r.  staz.  sper.  d.  caseif.  Lodi,  ann.  1902.  Lodi, 
1903.     Seep.  71. 

28.  [Flelschmaxx.  W. 

Bericht  d.  milchw.  versuchsstat.  Raden  fur  1880,  p.  34;  fur  1884,  p.  30.]  See 
citation  39,  p.  334. 

29.  Goesmanx.  C.  A. 

Mass.  state  agr.  exp.  sta.  Amherst,  (ith  ann.  rept.,  1888.  Boston,  1889.  See 
p.  239. 

30.  Griffiths.  A.  B. 

Analyses  de  quelques  homages  d'Angleterre.  Bull,  de  la  Soc.  chim.  dc  Paris. 
Ber.  3.  t.  7.  p.  282-2S3.     Paris,  1S92. 

31.  Haecker,  T.  L. 

Manufacture  of  sweet  curd  cheese.  Minn.  agr.  exp.  sta..  Bull.  no.  35,  p. 
104-12S.     St.  Anthony  Park,  Oct.,  1894.     See  p.  115,  122,  127. 


VARIETIES  OF   CHEESE.  65 

32.  Hassall,  Arthur  Hnx. 

Food:  its  adulterations  and  the  methods  for  their  detection.  Lond.,  1876. 
See  p.  450. 

33.  Hoffmaxx,  M. 

Die  milchwirtschaftliohen  verhaltnisse  Portugals.  Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  27, 
no.  13,  p.  197-199.     Bremen,  Mar.  20,  1898. 

34.  [Horntg. 

Beitrage  zur  geschiclite,  technik  und  statistik  der  kaserei.  Wien,  1809, 
p.  40.]     See  citation  39,  pp.  327.  329,  330.  335,  341. 

35.  Johnson,  S.  W. 

Analyses  of  some  American  cheese.  Conn.  agr.  exp.  sta.,  aim.  rept.,  1892. 
New  Haven,  1893.     See  p.  156. 

36.  [Jones.] 

Cited  from  White,  Henry.  Report  on  the  exhibition  of  cheese  at  Chester  in 
July,  1858.     Jrn.  roy.  agr.  soc,  v.  19,  p.  420.     Lond..  L858. 

37.  [Kalantarow,  A.  von. 

Ueber  die  chemsche  zusammensetzung  einiger  russischer  kase.  Jrn.  russ. 
phys.-chem.  gesell.,  v.  1,  p.  155.  1882.]  Cited  from  Bericht  d.  deut. 
chem.  gesell.,  jahrg.  15,  Jan. -June,  p.  1220.     Berl.,  1882. 

38.  Rlenze,  H.  L.  von. 

.     Versuche   iiber   die    verdaulichkeit    verschiedener    kasesorten.     Milch-ztg., 
jahrg.  14,  no.  24,  p.  369-373.     Bremen,  June  10,  1885. 

39.  Koenig,  Franz  Joseph. 

Chemie  der  menschlichen  nahrungs- und  genussmittel.  4.  aufl.  Berl.,  1903. 
See  bd.  1,  321,  335. 

40.  Kruger,  R. 

Beitrage  zur  herstellung  kamambertartiger  weichkiisc.  Molk.-ztg.,  jahrg.  6, 
no.  33,  p.  402.  Hildesheim,  Aug.  13,  1892.  [In  this  paper  Kruger  refers 
to  previous  papers  of  his  in  the  same  periodical.] 

41.  Leutner,  W. 

Krutt,  ein  von  den  Kirgisen  bereiteter  kase.  Pharm.  ztschr.  f.  Russland, 
jahrg.  24,  no.  1,  pp.  8-9.  St.  Petersb.,  Jan.  6,  1885.  Cited  also  in  Chem.- 
ztg.,  jahrg.  9,  no.  14,  p.  254.     Cothen,  Feb.  15,  1885. 

42.  Lindet,  Ammaxn,  and  Brugiere. 

Sur  la  composition  des  principalis  fromages  consommes  en  France.  Rev. 
gen.  d.  lait,  ann.  5,  no.  18,  pp.  416-418.     Lierre,  June  30,  1906. 

43.  [Lindt,  O.,  and  Muller,  C. 

Analysen  verschiedener  schweizerischer  kasesorten.  General-bericht  iiber 
die  erste  schweizerische  milchproduktenausstellung  in  Bern,  1.  bis  11. 
Sept.  1867,  von  R.  Schatzman.] 

Abst.  Jahresb.  ii.  d.  fortschr.  auf  d.  gesammtg.  d.  akr.-chem.,  jahrg.  10,  pp. 
354^55.     Berl.,  1868.     See  also  citation  39,  pp.  324.  327,  331,  333. 

44.  Lloyd,  F.  J. 

Observations  on  cheddar  cheese-making.  Report,  1893.  Jrn.  of  the  Bath 
and  west  and  southern  counties  soc,  ser.  4,  v.  4,  1893-4,  pp.  131-175. 
Lond.,  1894.     See  p.  161. 

45.  Macoir,  Louis. 

L'industrie  fromagere  en  Franche-Comte.  Bull,  d'agr.,  t.  20,  pp.  376-441. 
Bruxelles,  1904.     See  p.  390. 

46.  Maggiora,  Arnaldo. 

Ueber  die  zusammensetzung  des  iiberreifen  kiises.  Arch.  f.  hyg.,  bd.  14, 
no.  2,  pp.  216-224.     Munchen  u.  Leipz.,  1892.     See  p.  220. 


66  VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE. 

47.  [Maior,  G.  > 

Die  tzigaja-race,  ihre  eigenschaften  und  ihre  wirtschaftliche  nutzbarkeit. 
Inaug.-diss.  Halle,  1887.]  Cited  from  Thiele,  Paid.  Einigesiiber  schaf- 
kasefabrikation  in  Siebenbiirgen.  Milch. -ztg.,  jahrg.  26,  no.  46,  pp.  727- 
729.     Bremen,  Nov.  3,  1897. 

48.  Manetti,  L.,  and  Musso,  Giovanni. 

Sulla  composizione  dei  eaci  di  grana.  Staz.  sper.  agr.  ital.,  v.  5,  fasc.  3,  pp. 
174-201.     Torino,  1876.     See  p   187. 

49.  Ueber  die  zusammensetzung  und  die  reife  des  parmesankases.     Die  landw. 

versuchs-stat.,  bd.  21,  pp.  211-229.     Berl.,  L878.     See  p.  215. 

50.  [Martin,  Eij.  W.,  and  Moore,  R.  W.] 

See  citation  14,  p.  45. 

51.  Mayer,  Adolf. 

Analysen  von  hollandischen  kasesorten.  Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  16,  no.  5,  p.  87. 
Bremen,  Feb.  2,  1887. 

52.  Melikofp,  P.  G.,  and  Rosenblatt,  M. 

Lc  brynsa,  fromage  russe  de  lait  de  brebis.  Jrn.  d'agr.  prat.,  ami.  71. 
n.  s.  t.  14,  no.  52,  p.  814-815.     Paris,  Dec.  26,  1907. 

53.  Musso,  Giovanni,  and  Menozzi,  A. 

Sulla  composizione  degli  straechini.  Staz.  sper.  agr.  ital.,  1877,  v.  6,  fasc.  4, 
p.  201-206.     Torino,  1878. 

54.  [Muter,  J.] 

See  citation  14,  p.  44,  50,  52. 

55.  Patrick,  G.  E. 

(1)  Changes  during  cheese  ripening.     Iowa  agr.   exp.  sta.,  Bull.  24,  p.  970. 

Ames,  1894. 

(2)  Unpublished  data.     Analyses  made  in  I'.  S.  Department  of  Agriculture, 

1901.     Samples  collected  by  H.  E.  Alvord  in  Europe. 

56.  Payen,  A. 

Composition  de  plusieurs  substances  alimentaires.  Jrn.  de  pharm.  et  de 
chim.,  scr.  3,  t.  16,  p.  279.     Paris,  1819. 

57.  Precis  tWorique  et  pratique  des  substances  alimentaires.     Ed.  4.     Paris,  1865. 

See  p.  190-213. 

58.  Pereira,  A.  Cardoso,  and  Mastbaum,  Hugo. 

Tcehnisches  und  analytisches  iiber  die  kaseindustrie  in  Portugal.  Chcm.- 
ztg.,  jahrg.  28,  no.  84,  p.  998-1000.     Cothen,  Oct.  19,  190-1. 

59.  Richmond,  Henry  Droop. 

Dairy  chemistry;  a  practical  handbook  for  dairy  chemists  and  others  having 
control  of  dairies.     Lond.,  1899.     See  p.  303. 
(10.  [Rollet.] 

See  citation  45,  p.  390,  413. 

61.  RUBNER,  M. 

Analyse  des  sog.  topfens.     Ztschr.  f.  biol.,  bd.  15,  p.  496.     Miinchen,  1879. 

62.  Sartori,  Giuseppe. 

Sulla  composizione  della  ricotta  pecorina.  Staz.  sper.  agr.  ital.,  v.  18,  fasc.  1. 
aprile,  p.  434-^36.     Asti,  May  6,  1890. 

63.  Analisi  del  caciocavallo.     Nota  preliminare.     Ibid.,  v.  22,   fasc.  4,   aprile, 

p.  337-340.     Asti,  April,  1892. 

64.  Die  chemie  des  schafkiises.     Milch-ztg.,   jahrg.    19,   no.   51,   p.    1001-1004. 

Bremen,  Dec.  17,  1890. 


VARIETIES   OF   CHEESE.  67 

65.  [Sheldon,  John  Prince. 

Prize  essay  on  cheese  making,  etc.  Newcaetle-under-Lyme,  1876.]  See 
citation,  39,  p.  326. 

66.  Shuttleworth,  A.  E. 

The  composition  of  milk,  cheese,  and  whey  in  relation  to  one  another.  Out. 
agr.  college,  Guelph,  Out.,  Bull.  96.     Toronto,  Aug.  16,  1894. 

67.  Ann.  rept.  of  the  professor  of  chemistry.     Ont.  agr.  coll.  and  exp.  farm,  21st 

aim.  rept..  1895.     Toronto,  1896.     See  p.  25. 

68.  Siebf.u,  Nadina. 

Ueber  die  angebliche  umwandlung  des  eiweisses  in  fett  beim  reifen  des 
Roquefort-kases.  Jrn.  f.  prakt.  chem.,  n.  f.,  hd.  21,  p.  203-221.  Leipz., 
1880. 

69.  Snyder,  Harry. 

The  composition  of  dairy  products.  Minn.  agr.  exp.  sta.,  Hull.  27,  p.  50-62. 
St.  Anthony  Park,  Feb.,  1893.     See  p.  60. 

70.  [Soxhxet,  F. 

Erster  bericht  iiber  arbeiten  der  landw,  versuchsstat.,  Wien,  v.  2:),  [for] 
1870-78,  Wien,  1878.]     See  citation  39,  p.  322,  335. 

71.  Spica,  Matteo,  and  Blasi,  Luigi  de. 

Ricerche  chimichesui  formaggi  siciliani.  Staz.  sper.  agr.  ital.,  v.  23,  fasc.  2, 
agosto,  p.  132-153.     Asti,  Sept.  25,  1892.     See  p.  148, 

72.  [Storch, V. 

Forschungen  auf  clem  gebiete  der  viehhaltung,  1879,  p.  166-232.]  See  cita- 
tion 39,  p.  333. 

73.  Stutzer,  A. 

Die  chemische  untersuchungen  der  kase.  Ztschr.  f.  analyt.  chem.,  jahrg.  35, 
p.  493-502.     Wiesbaden,  1896.     See  p.  502. 

74.  Van  Slyke,  Lucius  Lincoln. 

Investigation  of  cheese.  N.  Y.  agr.  exp.  sta.,  n.  s..  Bull.  37.  Geneva,  Nov., 
1891. 

75.  Experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese  during  May.     Ibid.,  Bull.  43,  June, 

1892. 

76.  Experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese  during  June.     Ibid.,   Bull.  45, 

Aug.,  1892. 

77.  Experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese.     Ibid.,  Bull.  46,  Sept.;  Bull.  47, 

Nov.,  1892. 

78.  Summary  of  results  of  experiments  made  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese  during 

the  season  of  1892.     Ibid.,  Bull.  50,  Jan.,  1893. 

79.  Experiments  in  the  manufacture  of  cheese.     Ibid.,  Bull.  54,  May:  Hull.  56, 

May;  Bull.  60,  Oct.;  Bull.  61,  Nov.;  Bull.  62,  Dec,  1893;  Bull.  65,  Jan., 
1894. 

80.  Vieth,  P. 

Mitteilungen  aus  dem  laboratorium  der  Aylesbury  Company  in  London. 
Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  16,  no.  7.  p.  120-121.     Bremen.  Feb.  16,  1887. 

81.  Mitteilungen  aus  dem  laboratorium  der  Aylesbury  Dairy  Company  in  London. 

Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  21,  no.  12,  p.  191-192.     Bremen,  March  19,  1892. 
82  Bericht  iiber  die  thatigkeit  des  milchwirtschaftlichen  instituts  in  Hameln  mi 

jahre  1897.     Hannover,  1898.     See  p.  33. 

83.  Voelckner,  Augustus. 

On  the  composition  of  cheese  and  on  practical  mistakes  in  cheese-making. 
Jrn.  roy.  agr.  soc,  v.  22,  p.  29-69.     Loud.,  1861. 

84.  Cheese  experiments.     Ibid.,  v.  23,  p.  170-191.     Loud.,  1862. 


68  VARIETIES    OF    CHEESE. 

Voelckner,  Augustus — Continued. 

85.  On  a  peculiar  kind  of  Swedish  whey  cheese,  and  on  a  Norwegian  goats' -milk 

cheese.     Ibid.,  ser.  2,  v.  6,  p.  333-336.     Lond.,  1870. 

86.  Amerikanischer  kase  aus  magerer  milch  mit  zusatz  von  schmalz  oder  oleo- 

margarin.     Milch-ztg.,  jahrg.  11,  no.  28,  p.  438-^39.     Bremen,  July  12, 1882. 

87.  Wallace,  Henry  C. 

Investigations  in  cheese-making.     Iowa  agr.  exp.  sta.,  Bull.  21,  p.  735-767. 
Ames,  1893.     See  p.  756. 

88.  Weems,  J.  B. 

Unpublished  data.     Analyses  made  at  Iowa  agr.  coll.,  1896.     Samples  fur- 
nished by  J.  H.  Monrad. 

89.  Werenskiold,  Frederik  H. 

Aarsberetning  angaaende  de  offentlige'foranstaltning'er til  landbrugets  fremme 
i  aaret  1885.     Kristiania,  1886.     See  p.  78. 

90.  Ibid.,  [for]  1893.     Kristiania.  1894.     See  p.  87. 

91.  Wilson,  N.  E. 

Cheese  and  cheese  manufacture.     Nevada  agr.  exp.  sta.,  Bull.  18,  Reno,  Nov., 
1892. 

92.  Zega,  A. 

Kajmak.     Chem.-ztg.,  jahrg.  21,  no.  6,  p.  41.     Cothen,  Jan.  20,  1897. 

93.  Zega,  A.,  and  Bajic,  M. 

Katschkawalj.    Chem.-ztg.,  jahrg.  19,  no.  85,  p.  1920.     Cothen,  Oct.  23, 1895. 

94.  Zega,  A.,  and  Panics,  L. 

Serbischer  kase.     Chem.-ztg.,  jahrg.  22,  no.  18,  p.  158.     Cothen,  March  2, 1898. 


INDEX  TO  DESCRIPTIONS  AND  ANALYSES  OF  CHEESE. 


Abertam:  Description,  7. 

Albumin.    See  Ziger. 

Alemtejo:  Description,  7;  analysis,  56. 

Algau.    Sec  Limburg. 

Alga u  Emmental.    Sec  Eminental. 

Alpin:  Description,  7. 

Altenburg:  Description,  7. 

Alt  Kuhkase.    See  Hand. 

Altsohl.    Sec  Brinsen. 

Ambert:  Description,  7 

Ancien  Imperial:  Description,  7. 

Ancona.    See  Pecorino. 

Appenzell:  Description,  7. 

Arnauten.    Sec  Travnik. 

Auvergne  (or  Auvergne  Bleu).    See  Cantal. 

Backstein  (see  also  Limburg):  Description,  7; 
analysis,  56. 

Banbury:  Description,  8. 

Barberey:  Description,  8. 

Battlemat:  Description,  8;  analysis.  56. 

Bauden:  Description,  8. 

Belgian  Cooked:  Description,  8. 

Bellelay:  Description,  8;  analysis,  56. 

Bellunese.    See  Emmental. 

Bergquara:  Description,  9. 

Bergues.    See  Leyden. 

Berliner  Kuhkase.    See  Hand. 

Bleu  'see  also  Gex;  Sassenage;  Septmoncel):  De- 
scription, 9. 

Blue  Dorset.    See  Dorset. 

Bondon  (sec  also  Neufchatel) :  Analysis,  56. 

Boudanne:  Description,  9. 

Boulette.    See  Maroilles. 

Box  (firm):  Description,  9. 

Box  (soft):  Description,  9. 

Bra:  Description,  10. 

Brand:  Description,  10. 

Brick:  Description,  10;  analysis,  56. 

Brickbat:  Description,  10. 

Brie:  Description,  11;  analysis,  56. 

Brinsen:  Description,  11;  analysis,  56. 

Briol     See  Limburg. 

Brizccon.    See  Reblochon. 

Broccio  (see  also  Ziger):  Description,  11. 

Brocotte.    See  Ziger. 

Burgundy:  Description,  12;  analysis,  56. 

Cacio.    See  Parmesan. 

Cacio  Pecorino  Romano.    See  Pecorino. 

Cacio  Romano.    See  Chivari. 

Caciocavello:  Description,  12;  analysis,  56. 

Caerphilly:  Description,  12;  analysis,  56. 

Cambridge:  Description,  12;  analysis,  56. 

Camembert:  Description,  12;  analysis,  56. 

Cancoillotte.    See  Fromage  Fort. 

Canquillote  (seealso  Fromage  Fort) :  Description, 
13. 


Cantal:  Description,  13;  analysis,  56. 

Carinthian.    See  Limburg. 

Carre  Affine.    Sec  Ancien  Imperial. 

Castello  Branco.    Sec  Serra  da  Estrella. 

Ceracee.    See  Ziger. 

Champoleon:  Description,  13. 

Chaource:  Description,  14. 

Chaschol  de  Chaschosis:  Description,  14. 

Cheddar:  Description,  14;  analysis,  57. 

Cheshire:  Description,  15;  analysis,  58. 

Cheshire-Stilton:  Description,  15. 

Chevret.    See  Goat's  Milk. 

Chevrotin.    See  Goat's  Milk. 

Chivari:  Description,  15. 

Clerimbert.    See  Alpin. 

Colmar.    See  Miinster. 

Commission:  Description,  16. 

Compiegne.    See  Camembert. 

Contentin.    See  Camembert. 

Cooked:  Description,  16. 

Cotherstone:  Description,  16;  analysis,  58. 

Cotrone.    See  Pecorino. 

Cottage:  Description,  16. 

Coulommiers:  Description,  16;  analysis,  58. 

Cream:  Description,  16;  analysis,  58. 

Cream,  French  Demi-sel:  Analysis,  58. 

Crescenza:  Analysis,  58. 

Creuse:  Description,  17. 

Cristalinna:  Description,  17. 

Daisies.    See  Cheddar. 

Damen:  Description,  17. 

Danish  Export:  Description,  17;  analysis,  58. 

Dauphin.    See  Maroilles. 

Delft.    See  Leyden. 

Demi-sel.    Sec  Cream. 

Derbyshire:  Description,  17;  analysis,  58. 

Devonshire  Cream:  Description,  18. 

Domestic  Swiss.    Sec  Emmental. 

Dorset:  Description,  18;  analysis,  58. 

Dotter:  Description,  18. 

Dresdener  Bierkase.    See  Hand. 

Dry:  Description,  18. 

Duel:  Description,  18. 

Dunlop:  Description,  18;  analysis,  58. 

Dutch:    See  Cottage. 

Edam:  Description,  18;  analysis,  58. 

Elbing:  Description,  19. 

Emmental:  Description,  19;  analysis,  58. 

Emmersdorf.    See  Limburg. 

Engadine:  Description,  21;  analysis,  58. 

English  Dairy:  Description,  21. 

Epoisse:  Description,  21. 

Ervy  (see  also  Troyes) :  Description,  21. 

Farm:  Description,  21. 

Ferme.    See  Farm. 

Filled:  Description,  21. 


69 


70 


INDEX    TO    DESCRIPTIONS    AND    ANALYSES    OF    CHEESE. 


Flats.    See  Cheddar. 
Flower:  Description,  22. 
Fondue.    See  Fromage  Fort. 
Fontine  d'Aosta.    See  Emmental. 
Formagelle:  Description,  22. 
Formaggie  di  Capra.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Formaggini:  Description,  22. 
Formaggini  di  Lecco:  Analysis,  58. 
Formaggio  Dolce.    See  Emmental. 
Formaggio  Duro.    See  Nostrale. 
Formaggio  Grana  Lodigiano.    See  Parmesan. 
Formaggio  Tenero.    See  Nostrale. 
Fourme.    See  Cantal. 
Fourme  d'Ambert.    See  Ambert. 
Freisa.    See  Cooked. 
Fresco.    See  Stracchino. 
Fromagere.    See  Canquillote;  Fromage  Fort. 
Fromage  a  la  Creme.    See  Cream. 
Fromage  a  la  Pie.    See  Farm. 
Fromage  Blanc.    See  White. 
Fromage  Bleu.     See  Bleu. 
Fromage  Double  Creme.    See  Cream. 
Fromage  de  Boite.    See  Box  (soft). 
Fromage  de  Bourgogne.     Sie  Burgundy. 
Fromage  de  Foin.     See  Hay. 
Fromage  de  Troves.    See  Barberey. 
Fromage  Fort:  Description,  22. 
Fromage  Molt.     See  Maquee. 
Fromage  IVrsillc.    See  Gex;  Bleu. 
Gaiskasli.    Set  I  foal 's  Milk. 
Gammelost:  Description,  22;  analysis,  58. 
Gautrais:  Description,  22.  t 

Gavot:  Description,  22. 
Geheimrath:  Description,  22. 
Gerome  (see  also  Minister' :  Description,  23. 
Gervais  (.see  also  Cream) :  Description,  33;  analy- 
sis, 58. 
(lex:   Description,  23;  analysis,  59. 
Gislev:  Description,  24;  analysis,  5'J 
( ;  la  rnerkii.se.    See  Sap  Sago. 
Gloire  des  Montagnes.    See  Damcn. 
Glumse:   Description,  24. 

Gloucester  (.see  also  Derbyshire)  ■'  Analysis,  59. 
Goat's  Milk:  Description,  24;  analysis,  59. 
Gorgonzola:  Description,  24:  analysis,  59. 
Gouda:  Description,  25;  analysis,  59. 
Gournay:  Description,  25. 
Goya:  Description,  25. 
Grana.     See  Parmesan. 
Granular  Curd:  Description,  25. 
Qratairon.    Sec  Goat's  Milk. 
Gray:  Description,  25. 
Grottenhoi.    Sec  Limburg. 
Gruau  de  Montague.    See  Ziger. 
Grunerkase.    See  Sap  Sago. 
Gruyere:  Description,  26;  analysis,  59. 
Guiole.    See  Laguiole. 
Giissing:  Description,  2a. 
Hand:  Description,  26. 
Hartkiise.    See  Saanen. 
Harz:  Description,  26;  analysis,  59. 
Hay:  Description,  26. 
Hervg  (see  also  Limburg) :  Analysis,  59. 
Hobbe.    See  Leyden. 
Hohenburg.    See  Box  (firnn. 
Hohenheim:  Description,  27. 
Holstein  Dairy  Cheese.    See  Leather. 


Holstein  Health:  Description,  27. 

Holstein  Skim-milk:  Description,  27. 

Holsteiner     Gesundheits     Kase:     See     Holstein 

Health. 
Holsteiner  Magerkiise.    See  Holstein  Skim-milk. 
Hop:  Description,  27. 
Hopfcn.    See  Hop. 
Hudelziger.    See  Ziger. 
livid  Gjcdeost:  Description,  27. 
Iglesias.    See  Pecorino. 
Ihlefeld.    See  Hand. 
Ilha:  Description,  28;  analysis,  59. 
Incanestrato:  Description,  28;  analysis,  59. 
Isigny:  Description,  28. 
.lochberg:  Description,  28. 
Josephine:  Description,  28. 
Jura.    See  Septmoncel. 
Kajmak:  Description,  28;  analysis,  59. 
Kascaval:  Description,  28;  analysis,  59> 
Katschkawalj:  Description,  28;  analysis,  59. 
Katzenkopf.    See  Edam. 
Kirgischkiise.    See  Krutl. 
Kjarsgaard:  Description,  28. 
Kloster:  Description,  29. 
Klencz.    See  Brinsen. 
Knaost.    See  Pultost. 
Koejekaars.    See  Leyden. 
Kolos-Monostor:   Description,  29. 
Komynde.    See  Leyden. 
Koppen:  Description,  29. 
Kosher:  Description,  29. 
Kosher  Gouda:  Description,  29. 
Krauterkii.se.    See  Sap  Sago. 
Krutt:  Description,  29;  analysis,  59. 
Kuhbach:  Description,  29. 
Laguiole:  Description,  29;  analysis,  60. 
Lamothe.    Sec  Goat's  Milk. 
Lanark.    See  Limburg. 
Lancashire:  Description,  29. 
Landoch.    See  Brinsen. 
Langres:  Description,  30. 
Lapland:  Description,  30. 
Larron.    See  Maroilles. 
Latticini:  Description,  30. 
Leather:  Description,  30. 
Leder.    See  Leather. 
Leicester  (see  also  Derbyshire) :  Description,  30; 

analysis,  60. 
Leone,ssa.    See  Pecorino. 
Leyden:  Description,  31;  analysis,  60. 
Lindenhof.    See  Limburg. 
Limburg:  Description,  31;  analysis,  60. 
Liptau  (sec  also  Brinsen):  Description,  31. 
Livarot:  Description,  32;  analysis,  60. 
Livlander.    See  Hand. 
Long  Horns.    Sec  Cheddar. 
Lorraine:  Description,  32. 
Liineberg:  Description,  32. 
Maconnais:  Description,  32. 
Macqueline:  Description,  32. 
Maigre.    See  Farm. 
Majocchina.    See  Incanestrato. 
Maikase:  Description,  33. 
Mainz  Hand:  Description,  33;  analysis,  60. 
MalakoS  (see  also  Neufchatel) :  Description,  33. 
Manur:  Description,  37. 
Maquee:  Description,  33. 


INDEX    TO    DESCRIPTIONS    AND    ANALYSES    OF    CHEESE. 


71 


Marianhof.    See  Limburg. 

Markisch  Hand:  Description,  33. 

Maroilles:  Description,  33;  analysis,  60. 

Mascarpone:  Description,  34;  analysis,  60. 

Mascarpoui.    See  Ziger. 

Maubollen.    See  Edam. 

Meeklenberg  Skim:  Description,  34. 

Mignot:  Description,  34. 

Milano.    See  Stracchino. 

Mondsee.    See  Box  (firm). 

Monk's  Head.    Sec  Bellelay. 

Montasio:  Description,  34. 

Montavoner:  Description,  34. 

Mont  Cenis:  Description,  35. 

Mont  d'Or:  Description,  35;  analysis,  60. 

Monthldry:  Description,  35. 

Morin.    See  Limburg. 

Mou.    See  Farm. 

Mozarinelli:  Description,  35. 

Minister:  Description,  35;  analysis,  60. 

Mysost:  Description,  36;  analysis,  60. 

Nessel:  Description,  36. 

Neufcliatel:  Description,  36;  analysis,  60. 

Neusohl.    See  Brinsen. 

New  Milk:  Description,  37. 

Niederungkase.    See  Elbing. 

Nieheim:  Description,  36. 

Ntigelost :  Analysis,  00. 

Nostrale:  Description,  37. 

Olivet:   Description,  37;  analysis,  60. 

Olmiitzcr  Bierkase.    See  Hand. 

Olmutzer    Quargel    (Olmiitz):  Description,    37; 

analysis,  60. 
Paglia:  Description,  38. 
Pago:  Description,  38. 
Paneddas.    Sec  Cooked. 
Parmesan:  Description,  38;  analysis,  60. 
Pate  Bleu.    See  Bleu. 
Pavilion.    Sec  Camembcrt. 
Pecorino:  Description,  3!);  analysis,  60. 
Pecorino  Dolce.    Sec  Pecorino. 
Pecorino  Tuscano.    Sec  Pecorino. 
Petit  Carre.    See  Ancien  Imperial;  Neufcliatel. 
Petit  Suisse  (see  also  Neufchateli:  Analysis,  60. 
Pfister:  Description,  39. 
Philadelphia  Cream:  Description,  39. 
Pimp.    See  Mainz  Hand. 
Pineapple:  Description,  39;  analysis,  60. 
Poitiers.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Pont  l'Evequc:  Description,  40;  analysis,  60. 
Port  tlu  Salut:  Description,  40;  analysis,  60. 
Potato:  Description,  40. 
Potted:  Description,  41;  analysis,  61. 
Pratt igau:  Description,  41. 
Prestost:  Description,  41. 
Providence:  Description,  41. 
Provole:  Description,  41. 
Provoloni.    See  Provole. 
Puglia.    See  Pecorino. 
Pultost:  Description,  41. 
Quadro.    See  Stracchino. 
Quartirola.    See  Stracchino. 
Queso  de  Cincho:  Description,  41. 
Queso  de  Hoja:  Description,  42. 
Queso  de  Mano:  Description,  42. 
Queso  de  Palma  Metida.    See  Queso  de  Cincho. 
Queso  de  Prensa:  Description,  42. 


Queso  de  Puno:  Description,  42. 
Queyras.    See  Champoleon. 
Babacal:  Description,  42;  analysis,  61. 
Radrn:  Description,  12. 
Rangiport:  Description,  42. 
Raper.    Sec  Rayon. 
Raschera.    See  Nostrale. 
Rayon:  Description,  12. 
Rebbiola:  Description,  43;  analysis,  61. 
Reblochon:  Description,  43;  analysis,  61. 
Recuit.    See  Ziger. 
Reggian.    See  Parmesan. 
Reggiano.     See  Parmesan. 
Reibkase.    See  Saanen. 

Reindeer  Milk:  Description,  43;  analysis,  61. 
Remoudou.    See  Romadour. 
Rheinwald.    See  Schamser. 
Ricotta  (see  also  Ziger) :  Analysis,  61. 
Rinnen:  Description,  43. 
Riesengebirge:  Description,  43. 
Robiola.    See  Rebbiola. 
Roll:  Description,  43. 
Rollot:  Description,  44. 
Romadour:  Description,  44;  analysis,  61. 
Romano.    See  Pecorino. 
Romatur.    See  Romadour. 
Roquefort:  Description,  44;  analysis,  61. 
St.  Michcls.    See  Limburg. 
Saint  Benoit:  Description,  45. 
Saint  Claude:  Description,  45. 
Saint  Marccllin:  Description,  45. 
Saint  Remy:  Description,  45. 
Saaland  Pfarr.    See  Prestost. 
Saanen:  Description,  45. 
Sag'1:  Description,  45. 
Saloio:  Description,  45;  analysis,  61. 
Sap  Sago:  Description,  46;  analysis,  61. 
Sassenage  (see  also  Gex):  Description,  46. 
Sat/..    See  Hand. 
Savoy:  Analysis,  61. 
Scanno:  Description,  46. 
Scarmorze:  Description,  46. 
Schabziegcr.    See  Sap  Sago. 
Schachtclkii.se.    See  Box  (soft). 
Schamser:  Description,  46. 
Schlesischer  Sauermilchkase.    See  Silesian. 
Schlesischer  Weichquarg.    Sec  Silesian. 
Schloss:  Description,  47. 
Schottengsied:  Description,  47. 
SchuUen.    Sec  Limburg. 
Schwa rzenberg:  Description,  47. 
Schweitzer.    Sec  Swiss. 
S ('•ureter re:  Description,  47. 

Scptmoncel  (see  also  Uex) :  Description,  47;  anal- 
ysis, 61. 
Serac.    See  Ziger. 

Serra  da  Estrella:  Description,  47;  analysis,  61. 
Servian:  Description,  48;  analysis,  61. 
Siebenbiirgen.    See  Brinsen. 
Silesian:  Description,  48. 
Siraz:  Description,  48. 
Slipcote:  Description,  48. 
Smear-case.    See  Cottage. 
Sorte  Maggenga.    See  Parmesan. 
Sorte  Vermenga.    See  Parmesan. 
Soumaintrain.    Sec  Camembert. 
Spalcn:  Description,  48;  analysis,  61. 


72 


INDEX    TO    DESCRIPTIONS    AND    ANALYSES    OF    CHEESE. 


Sperrkase.    See  Dry. 

Spitz:  Description,  48. 

Squares.    See  Cheddar. 

Steppes:  Description,  49. 

Stilton:  Description,  49;  analysis,  61. 

Stracchino:  Description,  49. 

Stracchino  di  Gorgonzola.    See  Gorgonzola. 

Strassburg.    See  Minister. 

Stringer.    See  Spalcn. 

Styria:  Description,  49. 

Sweet  Curd:  Description,  50. 

Swiss:  Description,  50;  analysis,  61. 

Tafi:  Description,  50. 

Tamie:  Description,  50. 

Tanzenberg.    See  Limburg. 

Tempete.    See  Canquillote. 

Tessel:  Analysis,  61. 

Tete  de  Maure.    See  Edam. 

Tete  de  Moine.    See  Bellelay. 

Texel:  Description,  50. 

Thenay:  Description,  50;  analysis,  62. 

Thraanen.    See  Emmental. 

Thuringia.    See  Hand. 

Thury-en-Valois.    See  Camembert. 

Tignard:  Description,  50. 

Tilsit:  Description,  51. 

Tome  de  Beaumont.    See  Tamie. 

Tome  de  Montagne.    See  Vacherin. 

Topfen  (See  also  Cooked):  Analysis,  62. 

Toppen:  Description,  51. 

Trappist:  Description,  51;  analysis,  62 

Travnik:  Description,  51. 


Trouville:  Description,  52. 

Troyes:  Description,  52;  analysis,  62. 

Trockenkase.    See  Dry. 

Tuile  de  Flandre.    See  Maroilles. 

Tworog:  Description,  52. 

Uri:  Description,  52. 

Vacherin:  Description,  52;  analysis,  62. 

Vendome:  Description,  52;  analysis,  61. 

Villiers:  Description,  52. 

Viterbo  (see  also  Pecorinoj :  Analysis,  62. 

Vlasic.    See  Travnik. 

Void:  Description,  53. 

Vorarlberg  Sour-milk:   Description,  53;  analysis 

62. 
Walliskase.    See  Saanen. 

Warwickshire  (see  also  Derbyshire; :  Analysis,  62 
Weihenstephan.    See  Box  (firm  i. 
Weisslak:  Description,  53. 
Wensleydale:  Description,  53;  analysis,  62. 
West  Friesian:  Description,  53. 
Westphalia  Sour-milk:  Description,  53. 
Werderkase.    See  Elbing. 
Wiltshire  (see  also  Derbyshire):  Analysis,  62. 
Withania:  Description,  54. 
White:  Description,  54. 
Yorkshire-Stilton.    See  Cotherstone. 
Young  Americas.    See  Cheddar. 
Ziegel:  Description,  54. 
Ziegenkase.    See  Goat's  Milk. 
Ziger:  Description,  54;  analysis,  62. 
Zips.    See  Brinsen. 


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